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wood burning stoves

Pipe Ring for Plastic Tarp?

Douglas Alpenstock

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posted 3 years ago

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I'm trying to figure out how to put a stove pipe through a plastic tarp (or greehouse plastic) without melting it. It's in a location where there is no danger to people or buildings if something goes wrong.

I know there are fireproof rings made for canvas wall tents but they are expensive, and I'm not sure they are waterproof.

I wonder if some of the slicone bakeware, like the baking sheets, could be used for this. Worth an experiment? Other options?

Anne Miller

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posted 3 years ago

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How hot will the stove pipe get?

If over "but only up to 428 degrees Fahrenheit or 220 Celsius." per Mr Google about silicone bakeware.

Mr Google also said this:

"Silicone will flex when hot, but won't melt until exposed to 500 degrees Fahrenheit / 260 degrees Celsius."

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thomas rubino

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Hi Doug;
Would it be so bad if it leaked a little?
After all its a greenhouse.

One option might be, to frame a square and put the stove pipe thru then use a standard stove pipe collar.
The problem with that is if you do not have a wood frame greenhouse, but a hoop one.

Back to my first thought.
Maybe a little leakage would be ok???

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Douglas Alpenstock

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Yes, it's a hoop shelter. A little leakage isn't a deal breaker, but I would want to protect the stove from drips (it's still shiny and new). It'll be installed near the peak so it should be manageable.

The pipe ring setup has to be pretty lightweight so the plastic doesn't sag and form a puddle. I guess I could rig up a strut from the structure to support it.

Since the stove is portable (Alpine Camp Chef), it would be nice if the modified tarp could also be portable and set up with ropes.

Jay Angler

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What if you get something like those metal cones they use to try to keep squirrels out of bird-feeders and put that on the stove-pipe 6 " or so above where it goes through the plastic, so the water drips away from the hole in the plastic?

There's a reason chimney related fires are so common. Please don't underestimate how much repeated heating of wooden supports results in increased flammability. This is not a place I'd want to under-engineer the support system.

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Nancy Reading

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posted 3 years ago

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You can certainly get flexible flue flashing made form silicone, we have one for a stove in the barn. I'm thinking though that the flue is probably an insulated flue, so the surface won't get as hot. Is that an option for you perhaps? It will improve the draw as well as reducing the flue outside temperature.

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Cristo Balete

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How big is the greenhouse, height, length, and how big is the heater? Is it a wood stove, or a little RV type wood stove, or an electric heater?

Where do you want it to exit? If you are standing in the middle of it, and your head is at 12, do you want it to go out at 12 halfway down, or out at 10, or out one end?

I have hoop-style greenhouses, and slowly but surely the ceiling lowers, especially if you'll have a snow load on it, and unless it has interior supports. Better to put the supports in now to keep it at the height you start with.

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Douglas Alpenstock

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Cristo, excellent questions.

The structure is ... movable, portable, whatever I need given the situation.

The stove is ... whatever portable/junk wood burning stove I have at hand. It will run for a few hours at a time, and be closely monitored.

The problem to be solved is ... how do I punch a hot single-wall stove pipe through a melt-able roof?

John F Dean

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posted 3 years ago

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My high tunnel is in a fixed location. I put in a small concrete block cove to hold a small wood stove. I can see how a 4x4 portable extension made from wood and metal roofing could be made.

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Cristo Balete

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I think safety is important. I had an idea, but I just can't recommend it. These are some things to keep in mind.

Keep your car parked away from this structure, just in case. Don't store anything that really matters to you in this structure. If it starts to melt or catches on fire, leave, do not breathe the fumes. Some plastics actually burst into flame, they don't just melt.

It probably is safer and smarter to just buy what has been tested and works. Woodstoves of any size put off serious heat that can very quickly cause problems.

A pipe sticking out of any building is vulnerable to winds in storms, will rock that opening, so it needs to be quite stable. Codes say any pipe needs to go 3 feet above the peak of the roofline for safety because of sparks. Sparks on plastic....not a good idea. Metal stove pipes have a brace that holds the pipe at eave level and is screwed into the roof on the outside.

Birds try to go down pipes if they can, even if there's a cap on the pipe they squeeze through, so special hardware cloth needs to be over the top opening of the pipe, which help stops sparks from escaping from that pipe. Hardware cloth will add a little weight.

R Scott

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They make silicone pipe boots for roofs. $60 for one big enough for 6” pipe

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08HVTNXQM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

When I have looked at Amish greenhouses with chimneys through the plastic, they usually have a square of sheet metal with wiggle wire on all four sides. Sometimes a real roof flashing but often just a scrap of tin with a hole.

I am not suggesting you do that, but I have seen it done.

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Robert Ray

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How about using panel clamps from one hoop stay to another and using that framework to make your pipe jack. Basically, it would create two parallel purlins and you would just use a small portion of the now created frame. Wiggle wire on the new purlins or around the pipe jack framed portion would prevent sags.

clamp.jpg

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