R Scott

Pearl Sutton wrote:I realized the last version of sewage codes I looked at is not current. If anyone else needs them, readable for free ICC IPSDC (2018): International Private Sewage Disposal Code
I'm reading them.

That doesn't necessarily mean that is the code your county follows.  Most are at least a few years behind on code adoption. BUT it is an angle to play if something is allowed in the new code that wasn't in the old.

A compost pile with wet feet will get cold and anaerobic really easy.  

If it were me, I would keep the lagoon and set up a lovable loo system next to the flush toilets for as long as you can physically handle it. Use the lagoon when you have to, hopefully never.  

Have you seen the home biogas digester? Sort of septic where you capture the methane to cook: https://www.homebiogas.com  Not something I would want to sell to zoning right now, but something to think about--something that SHOULD be the standard.

USPS also has regional boxes, but they are not available at the post office--you have to order them online. If you are shipping 2-3 states away they were usually the best price.  If you are shipping regularly, ordering the boxes and envelopes is a HUGE time saver vs. having to go try to pick them up, especially if your PO doesn't keep many on hand.  and they are FREE--that often makes up for the extra price vs. UPS or Fedex for small items.

For John Deere, it was the early 2000's that took a big bump up in hydraulics, and mid 2010's that went full emissions clampdown (I am sure they will get better with time, but all the early emission diesels have been less fuel efficient from my observations).  You can look up the specs for almost any tractor at tractordata.com  Very useful for finding and comparing specs. I don't know the other brands, but it seemed to be pretty similar across the board, so a low hour 2005-2010 is probably a good ballpark. Check the web for any common complaints about the model you are looking at.

And James is not wrong, a new 2wheel tractor will do everything you do now better.  But a tractor does a lot of different stuff you can't do now but doesn't help some of the old machines shortcomings.

I second what Eric said.

a 15k budget will get you way more than you need, so be careful to buy enough tractor but not TOO much.  TOO much just costs you more fuel every time you use it.  

For that price range, you can get newer 4wd compact or sub compact.  I wouldn't go new, but just old enough to avoid the crazy diesel emission standards--too many things to go wrong $$$.  Too much older and the hydraulics are not nearly as strong--I bought too old and there are things I can't do that the newer version of my tractor can. The 4wd gives you the traction equal to an extra 20 hp (a 30 hp 4wd will do things you need at least 50 hp in 2wd)

Think about if you ever may want to move big round bales, whether for feed or cheap mulch/compost.  That takes a bigger tractor.  

DEFINITELY a loader bucket on the front!! It is the single biggest productivity booster I ever bought for the farm.

Which brand?? That depends on the dealer--face it, you WILL break things and need parts and probably service at some point even if you usually DIY.  Pick the one that has the better support after the sale.  Go visit the parts dept, ask around.  There are sleazy dealers just like used cars.  Way more important than saving a hundred bucks on the purchase is whether you can get the part you need in a day or if you have to wait weeks and whether the dealer is 15 minutes away or 3 hours.

I HAVE to have easy snacks to combat... FREE FOOD.  That is tough

I found a really good hot chocolate recipe--1 tablespoon high grade cocoa, 1 tsp to tablespoon butter/mct/coconut oil/cream, 1 tsp equivalent of the sugar free sweetener of your choice, and you can add a drop or two of peppermint essential oil if you like.  It takes a little adjusting to dial in to your taste, but that is a good DARK chocolate recipe to start with.

Tire chains will definitely work.  Cables are for ice, not snow or mud, but will definitely help.  They should live under your seat or in the toolbox.

You might be able to find a pair of good mud tires, you only need new ones for the rear, for not too much.  Look on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace or a small tire shop that sells used tires.  Lots of times someone will wreck one tire and replace all four (you need to on some 4wd) so you can get two or three like new tires for cheap. Maybe even on rims so you don't have to get the tires remounted.

Chip evacuation would be SLOW.  Overheat and burn would be an issue, it is easy to burn with a 3 inch bit.

If you look up wranglestar on YouTube, he recently did a trial with a cheap Chinese chainsaw and $20 bar guide from Amazon.  He spent more on the sharpener than the rest of it.  $200 and change all in, the sharpener was half of it.  It worked surprisingly well.  Better with a Stihl, but it worked.

Does the area get sun?

The side of my place that only gets morning sun needs all the help I can give it, the southern exposure cleans itself in a day even if the air temp doesn't go above freezing.

That east side I push all the snow I can, then go with a flat bottom steel shovel (sharpened) and scrape every afternoon when it will be most thawed.  For that spot it's about 2 pm.  Then I put a little sand or ash so it has a little bite until morning, then repeat.