R Scott

I have battled this in my mind while planning my build. I have settled on a version of 3. I will have a very modest solar system by today’s terms to charge phones and laptops and run lights and a fridge, the system will be about the same price as getting grid power installed. I did live on oil lamps and zero power for a while. I spent more on oil, candles, and batteries than a small solar system would cost just to run lights.  My numbers are for Kansas or Tennessee, yours will be very different but you get the idea.

Larger swales are easier to build and manage…with machines.

There can be minor differences in how long it takes water to infiltrate due to how deep the swale gets into the subsoil and volume vs surface space.

But the biggest question is how you plan to use and manage it afterwards. If you want to mow it with a machine, large swales have advantages but if you plan to scythe or leave it natural then micro swales are great.

First, WELCOME

There are plans using 55 gallon drums and big wheelie bin trash cans.

No real setbacks from the veggies if they are sealed. Where in your yard is more about logistics and temperature control. Shade in the summer and heat in the winter and out of the way but easy to move a 200 lb barrel. And yes you need to worry about hurricanes. If you don’t flood it should be as simple as tying down but moving into a garage might be easier.

There are other options like worm composting that you might find more to your liking.

White lithium is a good choice.

It is a toss-up whether to grease or not. If you do you’ll probably have a dust problem. If you don’t it will probably rust and squeak. Either way it will be more maintenance than NM.  I personally would grease it with something like white lithium or dry plate that doesn’t attract too much dirt. Easier to clean dirt than rust

Can you post links for a few of the best YouTube’s please. I should be considering the same issues for my next house that am about to start.

My best advice is to build good bones. Many possible methods but don’t skimp on the quality of the foundation and exterior weatherproofing.

If you have sufficient water, you could build a swamp cooler into your 24x24 window.

Low intakes on the north side will work, at least for the shoulder seasons. They could be upgraded to cooling tubes later if you want

A safari roof and external shades could also help a lot.

I thought you wanted it in your basement. If you want a new cistern in your yard, yeah that is easy and it shouldn’t freeze if it’s deep enough. Concrete or plastic.

It depends.  

You can’t dig straight down near an outer wall below the footing. You probably can dig a sunken floor well within the outer wall so it doesn’t disturb the footings. But you need professional

You can buy or build tanks that will fit the space. That is probably the way I would do it. IBC totes are hard to beat for gallons per dollar. But they don’t fit through regular doors very well. Diysolar.com had plans to build one out of 2x lumber, plywood, and pond liner. They built one in a crawl space so you can squeeze them about anywhere

K Eilander wrote:

R Scott wrote:Sure. If you choose the right thickness and design.

Got any resources on how to choose that?

Local building code, universal building code, icf manufacturer’s websites.

Keep in mind a sunken greenhouse might have to be stronger than a basement the same size. Many basements rely on the floor system to brace them, some even require the floor be in place before backfilling.  Larger newer earthships have buttresses to reinforce long straight walls. Most new homes don’t have a long straight wall just for architectural eye appeal, the corners add strength.

Sure. If you choose the right thickness and design.