R Scott

There are lots of portable steel forge plans/ideas that would work as is or slightly modified.

I like it. You just gave me a third option.

You may need to oversize that trench slightly depending on drag, but I don’t know for sure.

If that case, if it were me I would either….

I would turn that elbow to something like 75 degrees and cut a long angle on the pipe so the opening sits about 3 inches off the bottom (a little room for ash buildup)

Or

Put a pipe on the manifold so it dumps the hot air towards the middle of the bench



I just started a build and have the same dilemma. I am going to choose one of those options depending on which looks easier to fit once I get the manifold in place.  

How long is the bench?

Are you pulling the exhaust from the far end? (guessing because of the horizontal pipe) You could add an HVAC register boot to pull from closer to the floor, but I don’t know how much restriction that would add.

The other question is how and how often do you expect to use it.  Is it only for the big week long storm that happens once a year and you never want to think about it until then—propane. Is it going to run weekly/ semi daily during the winter to offset a lack of sunlight (a $5k generator can save 20-30k on panels and batteries needed to get through winter purely on solar—that pays for a lot of fuel). Then it depends a lot on size, location, and your logistics. For less than a 10kw generator, I’d say gas 100% (not sure if there is even an option in the us for a reliable diesel that size) for bigger it depends on which fuel you need on the homestead anyway, and a bit on your weather. Small diesels can be finicky in the cold. But they are definitely more durable and often actually quieter in this size range—they are just made for regular use where gas are often “emergency backup” so they are built to a price point  

Your best bet is to research sand battery heater.

Basically a bucket of sand with an electrical heater element that heats during the day from the solar panel and releases the heat overnight.

I don’t know what scale you need for your needs.

Send it as lean as possible, then grind the fat at the end and mix it together after it is ground.

Not only does the type and temperature matter, but the particular genetics and the diet will greatly affect the quality of the fat. There is definitely a learning curve.

I am violently opposed to carpet. My allergies can’t handle it—the VOC’s when new or the dust sponge when old.

I could put a sacrificial layer, but I don’t want to go to the work of cob to tear it up, plus clay is REALLY hard to come by here.

I have thought about watered down wood glue, then peel it up when ready for the finish layers, but can’t find anything one way or another. It works for paper bag flooring, but is still an expensive experiment with no time left for a plan B.

The deal is I have the base layers done (stone, Vapor barrier, compacted soil cement “road base” ) and only have the final layer(s) of finish cob to do, but winter is coming and I want to live in it as I finish the rest of the interior and finish the floors after all the major changes of dropped tools or paint or plaster are done.

Is there a way to seal the base from dusting that will still let the final coat adhere? Or will I be living on drop cloths all winter?

Lots of info here if you look up haybox cooking.

I would use a thin dedicated wrap to protect from soot, a wool blanket and then whatever else you have.