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Masonry heater build in tiny house

 
steward
Posts: 1612
Location: Coastal Salish Sea area, British Columbia
822
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Hello folks

I have finally begun building my masonry heater. It is based off of matt walker's riserless core. The parts have been mostly scrounged or free. What i have spent money on is the white IFB bricks, secondary air tube, wood feed door, the superwool, and fire clay.

Here is a link to  Matt Walker's riserless core


Here is where i purchased the door/secondary feed tube.  Dragon tech RMH!


I want to start out by saying i have not done any masonry work before. Having erica/ernie's book here has been tremendous help. Also having the tremendous support of pemies has been fantastic so thank you to everyone who has asked question on here. And thank you to those who have help answer those questions.


Today i spent my time stacking the riserless core and began trying to figure out the transition to the heavy mass storage. Is there any issues with using a 4.5" x 9" channel for my air path in the mass storage area? The CSA is @ 40 with the 4.5 x 9.

The stove is going to have a double skin. I will be putting up red clay bricks around the outside.




base-of-the-masonry-heater.jpg
the base.
the base.
dry-stacked-masonry-heater.jpg
What i am hoping it will look like. only nicer
What i am hoping it will look like. only nicer
dry-stacked-masonry-heater-2.jpg
dry stacked
dry stacked
leveling-masonry-heater-base.jpg
had to level part of the bricks. I used clay slip
had to level part of the bricks. I used clay slip
secondary-air-tube-in-base-layer.jpg
base layer with secondary air tube in
base layer with secondary air tube in
masonry-heater-base-2.jpg
Base layer for the heavier mass. Most likely going to fill the holes with perlite.
Base layer for the heavier mass. Most likely going to fill the holes with perlite.
first-layer-walker-stove.jpg
first course slipped up
first course slipped up
second-layer-walker-stove.jpg
second layer slipped up
second layer slipped up
bell-exhaust-routing.jpg
one option for routing the gases/exhaust
one option for routing the gases/exhaust
bell-exhaust-routing-2.jpg
exhaust routing
exhaust routing
bell-exhaust-options.jpg
exhaust routing
exhaust routing
3rd-and-4th-layer-of-walker-stove.jpg
next two layers put on.
next two layers put on.
IMG_1306.JPG
another of the finished riserless core
another of the finished riserless core
 
pollinator
Posts: 2359
Location: Canadian Prairies - Zone 3b
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Oh, wow. This is primo stuff. Please keep posting the work in progress.
 
pollinator
Posts: 3291
Location: Bendigo , Australia
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Does the wooden floor need strengthening?
 
jordan barton
steward
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Location: Coastal Salish Sea area, British Columbia
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lots of new skills learned here.

It seems for me soaking the red clay bricks than applying the mortar( which is just local soil sifted, mixed with some wood stove ash) to the wall first and than placing the brick on the wall works much better. As aposed to buttering the brick first and than putting it on the wall.

As far as putting the full sized fire bricks i found today that not making them wet at all and just using fireclay(clay slip) resulted in the best results.

I am super stoked to get this sealed up! I am excited to use it! Enjoying building and learning new skills.


John C Daley wrote:Does the wooden floor need strengthening?



please see my thread here
https://permies.com/t/165626/Tiny-House-Build-picture-heavy
IMG_1307.JPG
start of the bell
start of the bell
IMG_1308.JPG
bell
bell
IMG_1309-2.JPG
red clay bricks on the stove
red clay bricks on the stove
IMG_1310.JPG
other side of the stove
other side of the stove
IMG_1311.JPG
another brick in the wall
another brick in the wall
IMG_1312.JPG
brick brick brick
brick brick brick
IMG_1313.JPG
another brick in the wall
another brick in the wall
IMG_1314.JPG
adding more to the bell
adding more to the bell
IMG_1315.JPG
finally past the transison area where the core of the stove enters the bell
finally past the transison area where the core of the stove enters the bell
IMG_1316.JPG
another of the transistion area
another of the transistion area
IMG_1317.JPG
transistion area up close. It is about 6 1/2 x 7
transistion area up close. It is about 6 1/2 x 7
 
jordan barton
steward
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Location: Coastal Salish Sea area, British Columbia
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So i have been making some progress. It has been hovering around freezing here and it makes for cold days standing outside...

So i made a transition area which brings the flue gases down lower into the bell. It is about 7 3/4" by 8" and comes down to about 10" from the floor of the stove. It is topped with a ceramic fibre board along with a piece of superwool. The bricks i used were light weight ones which hopefully will not steal to much heat.

I made a chimney exit which is an experiment. The chimney sits on two IFB on end with some superwool. The chimney is about 7 1/2" from the floor of the stove.

I am getting excited to put the top on the bell. Than i can start getting the ceramic glass cut and installed.

I got to say i am surprised at how much mortar i am needing to use. Every 15 bricks requires a dish wash tub full of mortar. It snowed the other day so i am going to need to wait a few days to get some more mortar sifted.

All and all i am loving doing this work.
IMG_1318.JPG
Two IFB as the base
Two IFB as the base
IMG_1319.JPG
a few rows up
a few rows up
IMG_1320.JPG
ceramic fibre board. Wear a mask!
ceramic fibre board. Wear a mask!
IMG_1321.JPG
Where the board/ superwool went
Where the board/ superwool went
IMG_1322.JPG
all finished
all finished
IMG_1323.jpg
I believe i am going to remove the far bottom left brick.
I believe i am going to remove the far bottom left brick.
IMG_1325.JPG
blurry photo of the chimney resting on the IFB
blurry photo of the chimney resting on the IFB
IMG_1332.JPG
Where it sits today. I have been too cold for a week or so. I want a warm day inside!
Where it sits today. I have been too cold for a week or so. I want a warm day inside!
IMG_1333.JPG
Back side of the stove
Back side of the stove
 
John C Daley
pollinator
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Location: Bendigo , Australia
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Its an interesting job
 
Rocket Scientist
Posts: 4685
Location: latitude 47 N.W. montana zone 6A
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Hi Jordan;
Your stove is looking very nice!
I just love the old brick, it has such character.

I have found that when using new fire bricks , no mortar at all works very well.

I remember working on my shop batchbox during the winter...
A propane heater helped and then about 3-4 hrs was all my hands wanted to do.
 
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