John C Daley

Eliot, what sort oif flow do you have? It must be very small, I am amazed its working.
But well done.
Glenn I am trying to find smaller rams.
In Australia where I am we dont have large snow areas, so sticking valves have not been an issue for me, but I can imagine the walk.

How did this task finish up?

Can you install a gutter that would not be ripped off and collect drip water?

I googled for Mill pond repairs and found these;
Mill pond repair UK

There will be information somewhere in the world about your issue.
As a Civil Engineer I would research how they may have been constructed, and from that some ideas will arise.
There may well be some group that specialises in helping with this issue.
So far I cannot find them, but I will keep looking.

I may have hit gold.
My initial thoughts were to think about lining the stone work with clay, since that may seal it.
It seems that is the solution, along with removal plants etc that will causes leaks along the roots.

The `dry' side of the embankment should be regularly inspected for danger signs such as unaccountable wetness, or water trickling through or under
the dam.
Immediate steps should be taken to remedy the problem. If the flow seems to be increasing before remedial work can be put in place, it is strongly
recommended that the pond be drained. Provided that the seepage rate was small, it is probable that no permanent damage will have been done to the dam
structure, the problem having been resolved by draining the pond. The area of the pond in the vicinity of the leakage points should be treated by cleaning
out any deposits containing plant growth and a layer of clay some 2" (approx. 50 mm) thick should be `puddled' over the area to seal it.
It would also be a wise precaution to seek the advice of an expert as to the correct course of action.
Puddling should be done with a type of clay which becomes impervious when worked with sufficient water to form a stiff `dough like' consistency.
The material is then spread and pressed (puddled) over and around the area through which the water appears to be escaping. If the puddling is allowed to
dry out, it may crack  and lose its sealing quality.
Trees should not be allowed to grow on or close to a dam as their roots can disturb and loosen the structure, leading to leakage; neither should any dead
roots be tolerated, as,when rotted, they can provide water channels through the dam. There is also the possibility of a tree blowing over, taking the dam with it.

This was obtained from a publication Principles and Practise of water mill repair

OK, so what are your needs, rather than the wants list?

Using the photo where are the following areas?
- boundary with neighbour
- where is your parcel compared with the 'storage' and ' river' pins?
- Does your parcel have direct access to the river?

Also is that square shape between the river and the road your shack?
How would you install an underground pipe downstream of the spring?

To calculate water flow in the river, draw a profile of the river and determine its shape and rough area in sq M.[A]
The throw a leave in the stream and measure the time taken to flow say, 20M.
if its 6 seconds [ T] we calculate the flow in Litres / minute [V] as follows;
T divided into 1 minute [60 seconds] is equal to 10.
10 times 20 Metres is the distance travelled for 1 minute, 200M.
Speed of the water is 200 x 60 minutes = 12 Km per hour.
Area of stream profile [A] is 2 sqM.

12KPH is probally too fast and would cause erosion, it needs to be generally less than 10 KPh to avoid erosion.

Times 200M gives us a volume of 400 cubic metres in 1 minute
River flow is  400,000 L per minute at 12KPH.

Where are you doing this work out of interest?
Always plan for the lowest water flow.

My idea is to run the delivery pipe first down to the river and then up to my tank.

This is confusing.
Will you install the delivery pipe from the pump to the tank area and then up to the tank?

The drive pipe lies in or near to the water supply.
200M is a reasonable distance, put the biggest pipe in that's affordable for the scheme.
Why not
- build pump
- install drive and delivery pipe
- finish project?

You do noit need a weir, just something to hold the pipe stable

Can I ask what the political issue of Smart meters are?
I found this when trying to find something about it.

From Values in the Smart system

Investing in smart grid infrastructure is a key enabler for the transition to low carbon energy systems.

I agree with David.
Perhaps you can put a Faraday cage around the meter to cut electromagnetic fields.
Faraday cages

I have a property near Bendigo in Victoria.
My house is off grid and a workshop is on grid, because the house is too far to run power at a reasonable price. $$25K.
My solar cost about $15000 secondhand.
The solar always needs to be maintained, checked etc.
If I had a choice I would have the power connected at least to a big workshop.