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Earthen plaster on conventional walls

 
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So, my partner and I are writing an offer on a cute little cabin. It's framed out and the exterior is done, but it needs to be insulated and finished on the inside. FWIW we're in zone 4. I have a bunch of the denim insulation I bought for cheap a few years ago that we're planing to use.

I have some experience with earthen plasters, but only on natural structures like strawbale, cob, earthbag, etc. I am wondering what would be a cost-effective, and more importantly, low impact way to use earthen plaster over conventional framing and insulation. Should we do lath? Should we put up plywood? What will the plaster attach to? Any tips?

Thanks!!!
 
pollinator
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First off, welcome to Permies!

The second thing is, and this might depend on cost, but I wondered if stapling up chicken wire netting might work to hold your earthen plaster?
 
rachel johnson
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I am wondering more about a barrier between the insulation and the plaster. Could I  just do denim insulation, wire, plaster? That seems like it might not be sturdy enough or would have moisture issues, but I'd be happy to be wrong on that.
 
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Hi Rachel,   I would suggest that you need something for the plaster to adhere to that is a little more substantial than just the insulation. Also, the expansion and contraction between the studs and insulation (being dissimilar materials) would most likely cause cracks that will never stop reoccurring. Some sort of stiff and non smooth surface such as conventional steel lathe or more natural reed mat should do the trick. In the days before drywall, the norm was putting up narrow horizontal boards with small spaces between and plastering over that.
Here are some reed mat pictures to give you an idea...



 
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Gerry Parent wrote:Hi Rachel,   I would suggest that you need something for the plaster to adhere to that is a little more substantial than just the insulation. Also, the expansion and contraction between the studs and insulation (being dissimilar materials) would most likely cause cracks that will never stop reoccurring. Some sort of stiff and non smooth surface such as conventional steel lathe or more natural reed mat should do the trick. In the days before drywall, the norm was putting up narrow horizontal boards with small spaces between and plastering over that.
Here are some reed mat pictures to give you an idea...





Hi,

I like your photos. Question for you: Is that simply reed privacy fencing stapled to the wall studs?

Thanks.
 
Gerry Parent
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Yes Rusty, that's all it is.
Just make sure your fasteners penetrate deeply enough into the wood to firmly support the weight of the plaster. Burlap can also be used in more curvy places.
 
Rusty Bowman
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Gerry Parent wrote:Yes Rusty, that's all it is.
Just make sure your fasteners penetrate deeply enough into the wood to firmly support the weight of the plaster. Burlap can also be used in more curvy places.



Thanks! That's what I was hoping to use in my place I'm currently building. Trying to get an idea of what to expect. How far apart did you staple it, roughly?
 
Gerry Parent
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Those were not my photos Rusty.
Just used them to give an example of what I was referring to the questioner.
If it were me, after stapling, I'd run a strip of thin wood along each stud to help hold the mat in place.
 
pollinator
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When wooden lathes were applied years ago each 1 1/4 inch wooden strap was nailed at each stud.
download-31.jpg
[Thumbnail for download-31.jpg]
showing how plaster grips
download-30.jpg
showing how plaster grips to the lathe
showing nailing is done
 
pollinator
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Rachel,
How about this?  Did you get an opportunity to use earthen plaster on that cabin?  If so, how did you do/like it?
 
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