Hans Quistorff

gardener
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since Feb 25, 2012
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goat tiny house rabbit wofati chicken solar
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I have home movie proof that I started in agriculture at age 3 1943.
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Longbranch, WA Mild wet winter dry climate change now hot summer
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Recent posts by Hans Quistorff

I only have a few tomato plants each year and I keep them in the greenhouse.  The only adverse reaction seems to be they stop setting fruit when constantly overheated but start again as it cools off.
1 day ago
Negative experience: I did not compress the soil or water it after this planting and I had no germination but I blamed it on dead seed from the grocery bulk bin.
To summarize: The objective is to bring the soil/moisture in close contact with the seed.  Not necessarily to compact the soil.  So a log with a pin in each end with a yoke of rope that pulls behind you may work fine. A rain or overhead irrigation will also compact the soil around the seed and provide the moisture to start the germination.

 
I think the ancient tradition was bare feet. but a log would probably do the job
I think it may be Microsoft. they keep making the cursor more sensitive so if it stays on the apple it clicks repeatedly. It is happening to me opening multiple tabs.
OK you are beginning to think in permaculture design.  Does this demonstration have application to my design?  You ask this under the topic of mulch so that is how I will direct the answer.
What was the purpose of the demonstration?  to sell tools. He also sells rakes. Besides killing the weeds what was his objective?  Most likely with his cultural practices to make a dust mulch.
The purpose of a dust mulch is to produce a dry loose layer that stops wicking of moisture to the surface and is hostile to seed germination.  Disadvantages is it depletes soil life and nutrients
and is only effective until the next rain or watering.   As you mentioned leaving the hoed weeds on the surface when they have seed heads as in the video continues to feed the weed seed bank.
Use the shuffle hoe more frequently and more shallowly then is advantageous for minimizing soil disturbance and making a cop and drop mulch.
Leaving them may offer some soil protection but cutting them and leaving the roots and soil undisturbed may give better protection.  
Bottom line: do not feel that you should do everything the other person does because your circumstances and goals my be different.
Do not let other peoples standards make you feel like an inferior gardener because your garden does not look like theirs.
1 week ago
I have taken to replacing them with steel conduit used for top rails on chain link fence.  If I get a good fit in the tool shank they do not break or come loose.
1 week ago
My understanding from the boat people is the epoxy holds up against water but will slowly degrade in the sun. Waxing and oiling just requires regular maintenance of reapplying as it is degraded by the weather. The advantage it remains relatively uniform in appearance without having to remove previous coats and refinish.
2 weeks ago
This is my third post on the topic but 7 years more experience [83 years now] and new questions asked.
I recommend a movable coop over a static one but having the night droppings go into a compost rather than building up under the roost is the best option for a stationary coop.  A steep sloped shelf under the roost that directs the droppings into a bin on the outside of the coop might be the least intensive option.  My system allows the kitchen and garden scraps to be first choice to the chickens and then the worms. The worms stay in the garden so no moving the compost.     In the early years we had rabbits in 3 by 8 foot cages over next seasons garden beds and the worms did fine processing the droppings and waste hay.
This is the coop pictured earlier and adapted for the prosses.
The dementions are 4 feet wide and 12 feet long so three 4x4 sections.
One and half inch fencing was added to the bottom and front of the roosting nesting area.  This allowed me to shut them in that third and lift the tractor up higher on the back wheels to move it longer distances with the chickens in it.
It was only necessary to go to them once late in the day to collect eggs, move the tractor forward 2/3 its length, add grain to the center third, add the kitchen/garden scraps to the front third.  They would sort through the greens and grain and sleep with full crops. The back third of the tractor was then over the previous days scraps and under the fencing floor and would receive the nights droppings.  The next morning the chickens would be up at day break and start digging up where the grain and scraps were left.  When conditions were as in the above video they would find lots of worms and bugs to supplement any left over grain.
2 weeks ago
Warning visitors to a restroom with solar tubes tend to spend futile time flipping switches trying to turn off the light before they leave.
But mine works great even moon and star light when available.
2 weeks ago