Hey all. New here, but have a question that's fairly urgent. My wife and I have some spider mites in our indoor container herb garden, and we're at a loss as to how to get rid of them. They already knocked off a pot of cilantro and they're starting to work on our mint plants. Anyone have any ideas?
posted 12 years ago
From website Permaculture in New Zealand at www.permaculture.org.nz. Spider mite spray is the first one listed but listing includes recipes and preventions for a multitude of problematic insects.
RECIPES FOR ORGANIC SPRAYS
Washing machine water Water from the washing machine can be collected and used directly on plants in the garden. This soapy water can be collected during the spin cycle and seems to work very well on tomatoes. Simply splash water over the plants to water and protect from a variety of pests.
Soapspray, Use for aphids, red spider mites, thrips 225g Plain soap 9 litres hot water Grate soap and dissolve in water, stirring well. Cool before use. After spraying infected plants gently hose down with clean water. Repeat as often as necessary.
Pyrethrum, Use for general insecticide for white fly, scale, thrips, leaf hoppers. leaf miners, borers, caterpillars, beetles Dried feverfew or Pyrethrum flowers Boiling water Pour boiling water over flowers and cover. Leave to seep until cool. Make small amounts at a time and use regularly after the sun has gone down, as this spray can harm bees. This spray should be pale in colour.
Garlic, Use for ants, spiders, white fly, Beetles, leaf hoppers, scale, citrus bugs (stink bugs), caterpillars, aphids, cabbage and tomato worms 4 cloves of crushed garlic 1 litre water Leave garlic to seep in water for several days before use.
Elderleaf, Use for fungal infections Leaves are boiled in water for 20 minutes. However, I recommend seeping in boiled water and leaving for a few days as the steam could be hazardous. Dilute solution to a pale yellow before use. Nettle tea, Use for white fly, aphids, leaf hoppers Cut tops of plants, leaving roots to re-grow Put leaves and stems in a pot with sufficient water to cover and bring to the boil. Boil for about 10 minutes. Cool, strain. Dilute to the colour of weak tea before use.
Seaweed tea, Use for mildew, fruit rot, rust and general feed Leave seaweed to soak in water for 2 weeks before use. Dilute to a pale sherry colour.
Comfrey tea, Use for rust Make as for Seaweed tea.
Chamomile tea, Use for rust Use fresh or dried flowers. Boil in water. Dilute until very pale in colour. Cool before use.
Horsetail, Use for mildew 1 Tablespoon dried or fresh horsetail 1 litre of water Boil for 20 minutes, then stand overnight or longer. High in Silica and vitamins so pour remains into the soil.
Bracken, Use for aphids Chopped fern covered in water left to steep for 2-3 days. Dilute to pale liquid.
Wormwood, Use for aphids, leaf hoppers, Use leaves over soil to deter slugs or make a strong tea. Seep in water for a fortnight. Dilute and spray to deter aphids, white fly, citrus bugs (stink bugs), caterpillars, flies and mosquitoes.
Onion spray, For spider mites, caterpillars, thrips Place onions in blender or chop. Cover in boiling water. Cool and dilute before use.
Chive tea, Use for mildew Dried or fresh chives finely cut steeped in boiling water until cool. Dilute and spray infected plants
Lettuce spray, Use for white cabbage moth Boil up leaves. Cool and dilute before spraying.
My own spray That worked miraculously well against white fly was made simply to give my plants a pick me up. But some how it cured the terrible infestation of white fly almost over night. It was probably the smell.
1 shopping bag full of seaweed 3 cow patties (fresh'ish) A few vegetable scraps Approximately half a bag of weeds Steeped in a large rubbish bin with lid. Fill to the top with water. Leave for approximately 3 weeks. Dilute to a pale tea colour and spray onto plants
BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS Biological controls can be artificially introduced however, plants that attract these insects should be planned for instead, as this ensures on going breeding sites and safe havens for the predator insects. The reason for no artificial introduction is a pure personal belief in leaving things to good planning and mother nature.
We've had good luck at controlling them with Safer Soap sprays. Also, if they seem to be spreading through your potted plant population, I would isolate (with a plastic bag or by moving to another room) the infected plants until they are better.
I'm not sure, but I imagine pyrethrin would also work.
Principal - Terra Phoenix Design
posted 12 years ago
spider mites and white flies have a tendency to get abundant when the air is too dry. First you need to remove the mites with a forceful spray of water from the shower hose,, ( we are talking small potted plants -right) a tight wrap of plastic wrap normally is all you need to keep dirt in pot and plant still exposed. after spraying the pests off the plant, increase the amount of humidity in their area- bathroom is great place for plants in the wintertime. If thats not feasible, put rocks in a container add water to almost cover rocks and put plants on rocks. Sit open quart jars ( remember to change water occasionally) of water around plants, mist them daily with a sprayer... just get the humidity level up and the bugs will not be able to get such a firm toehold as to be able to kill plants.
it doesn't look like you need any more suggestions, but with aphids/mites/ anything that attacks indoors or greenhouse plants, i just move the plant outside for awhile.
i think to myself 'these little guys need some predators' and hope that some beneficial insects come by to regulate the system, then move back indoors. manually wiping off any offenders also helps quite a lot.
There are a few ways of controlling them, but none is easy and all are labour intensive.
Easiest way is to not have your plants indoors but outdoors, then you will have the problem under nature control (it really works quick, when you move the plants outside to rainy weather), but this does not apply for cold sensitive plants, or during winter
Second easiest way is to raise humidity of your indoor space and spray your plants almost every day with water (this really helps, but obviously not the most lazy way to go)
Third is to spray them with rosemary oil, neem, hot chillies and garlic, this will eventually kill them all if you are patient to spray them every day for a few weeks, and then be careful not to bring them back indoors
Fourth is to introduce predator insects and keep a high biodiversity indoors. The most effective predators are:
Other predators include Feltiella acarisuga, stethorus punctipes (mite destroyer) and sometimes Earwigs, Pirate Bugs, Ladybugs, Green Lacewings, and Scolothrips sexmaculatus.
I still have my problem with spider mites and the only way I have used so far is to spray them with water as often as possible. If I forget to do it, then problem returns again. Or move the plants outdoors once in a while when there is rainy weather. The other sprays work, but I have not had the patience to go with the treatment until the end. And I have not introduced any predators yet, but I will do so.
in Portugal, sheltered terraces facing eastwards, high water table, uphill original forest of pines, oaks and chestnuts. 2000m2
in Iceland: converted flat lawn, compacted poor soil, cold, windy, humid climate, cold, short summer. 50m2
My first bit of advice is that if you are going to be a mime, you shouldn't talk. Even the tiny ad is nodding: