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Repairing bad grafts advice

Posts: 153
Location: Connecticut
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In late winter I attempted my first grafts.  The rootstock was Bud 9 and Northern spy scion.  I kept them stored in the garage using wet sawdust until I could plant in the spring.  I'm getting ready to plant now so I checked one of the grafts and it looks like the grafts didn't heal.  They were supposed to be whip/tongue grafts but I only managed to do a splice graft (first timer but I practiced).  Plus the rootstock and scion weren't comparable thickness.  So I'm wondering whether I should still plant the rootstocks even though the grafts didn't work, let the rootstock have a leader and then graft onto it down the road.  Or not plant and retry next spring with hopes of having better success with the grafts?  I buried one of the rootstock to propagate for future use.  I guess either way would be okay I'm just discouraged at this point and wondering if I have better options.  Thanks
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Location: the mountains of western nc
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if it was me, i’d plant the rootstocks and retry the grafts next spring. for future reference, mismatched sizes can still work pretty well, you just line up one side for cambium contact and don’t worry about the other side, it’ll usually callus over. practice your whip-n-tongues on whatever twigs you’ve got around in the meanwhile, it really is a much more stable graft for wrapping.
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Location: Western Kentucky - Zone 7
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Plant your rootstock and retry the grafts about 4ish weeks before emergence. Graft same day as scion cut for best take if possible. I do this on wild pear trees.pictures are of a Shinko pear I grafted on a Bradford pear. Since I keep these trees short side grafts work well.
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