greg mosser

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since Apr 18, 2017
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forest garden trees foraging chicken food preservation wood heat
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greg mosser currently moderates these forums:
tree crop and perennial vegetable enthusiast. co-owner of the Asheville Nuttery and the Nutty Buddies orchard group.
musician, forager, cook, beverage savant.
the mountains of western nc
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Recent posts by greg mosser

i’ve mostly cooked giant solomon’s seal (P. biflorum) young shoots (up to ~18”)  without any water changes - actually sautéing with no boiling…the leafy tips of the shoots are the bitter part, at least on this species. the stems are much sweeter and milder. i like a bit of bitterness in foods from time to time, so i don’t mind it, but i reckon you’d have a fair bit of vegetable left if you wanted to remove the bitter part before cooking.
several months ago when alan carter was here and there was a giveaway for his book, he mentioned here about some woody possibilities for the forest garden, namely koshiabura and harigiri, both woody members of araliaceae that grow wild in japan, and whose shoots are foraged in the springtime as sansai - ‘mountain vegetables’.

does anyone have leads on seeds or cuttings for these plants, or others used similarly? the latin names for the two mentioned are Kalopanax septemlobus and Chengiopanax sciadophylloides. i know of some wild domestic araliaceae and have access to several - that’s not what i’m looking for here. alan is in the uk and the sources on his website don’t seem geared towards the us, but i haven’t dug into them too deeply.
3 days ago
my understanding is that ‘beet’ is just german for ‘bed’, so hugelbeet is an appropriate name for any hugel-type planting area, in-ground or on.
4 days ago
the wings won’t hurt anything, i wouldn’t bother to try to get rid of them. stratification is mimicking a normal winter cycle. sometimes it makes sense to plant them in small pots and then bag them and stick the pots in the fridge for a month or 3. in this case (and assuming you’re somewhere that gets a decent amount of colder temps in this season), i’d plant them in pots and just leave them outside where they’ll get rained/snowed on, frozen, etc. maybe on the north side of a building so they don’t heat up too much on real sunny days. let the weather do all the work. i sometimes do a little extra rodent protection on stratifying pots but i probably wouldn’t worry about that in your case unless your mice are really out of control.

if you wanted to wait to plant until the spring, that’s when a 24hr soak would be most helpful. you’ll get enough ‘soaking’ in the freeze/thaw cycles of stratification though.
4 days ago
agreed, spruce. my references say no pre-treatment necessary, and stratification helps give more uniform germination.

sounds like you can plant them now or wait ‘til spring.
4 days ago
besides many of the other things mentioned earlier, i almost always have a pair of earplugs in my back pocket. mostly because i seem to be prone to forgetting them when going to do loud work.
1 week ago
yep. we have a lot of beech in our woods. i try to collect windfall for fuel as soon as i notice it. by the next year it will have become marshmallow.
beech is decent wood but it rots pretty quickly in contact with the ground or if it stays wet.

greg mosser wrote:

r ranson wrote:

greg mosser wrote:snacking on a household specialty: acorn spicebush cookies with toasted black walnuts on top.

Don't suppose you have a recipe for that?  Or is it a family secret?  

i do! i’ll dig it back out when i’m not bouncing this baby for her afternoon nap.

just realized i never came back with the info! here’s the ingredient list:

3 trees and a bush cookies

8 Tbsp/ 1/4lb butter
1/2c maple syrup
2 egg yolks
1 scant tsp vanilla

1 1/4 c acorn flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
3 tsp ground whole spicebush berries
1/4 tsp salt

lightly toasted black walnut kernels (just a bit, less than 1/4c per batch) for topping

the egg yolks make these fairly soft. the dough needs to be fully chilled before portioning out. space well because they do spread a bit. ~12 minutes at 350F (~176C).
1 week ago
there’s a single tree of some very large and tasty-fruited chinese cultivar in the yard of a chinese medicine clinic locally that several of us locals have grafted at our places. if you can find a suitable rootstock (washington hawthorn is probably the most widely available), i can send some scion wood. and, y’know, give grafting pointers if needed…

are the thorns actually part of what you want? i’ve seen a couple places (one green world comes to mind) that sell grafted chinese haw (no thorns) trees. the one i have is thorny.
1 week ago