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L Anderson

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since Apr 04, 2020
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Retired Sociologist.  2 acres, 2 horses, 2 alpaca, and 3 little dogs. Multiple Sclerosis (I know, I shouldn’t boast. Just my little contribution to building awareness of a very weird disease. Job done.)
Willamette Valley, OR
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Recent posts by L Anderson

Ok,
A moment of dumbness here.
It never occurred to me that Permies is a social media site
Maybe because I’m kind of old? And remember online bulletin boards as a cool new thing?
More likely, because I don’t do social media, for the reasons already pointed out. Tried them, don’t like them, waste of time, made me crabby. And certainly no better informed.

So yeah, I see it now.  Permies is a social media site.  So it shows that it is possible for a social media site to be informative and collegial. To foster sharing instead of competition. Learning instead of mindless consuming.

But, as Paul’s post points out, this doesn’t happen by accident. There are a lot of people (I say “a lot,” but I really have no idea how many — but double digits maybe?) spending (likely donating) a lot of time keeping things right. Monitoring. Rewarding. Encouraging.

And key: not trying to make millions and billions of dollars off the “users.”  Just enough to keep things going, it seems to me. So we can all be supported in doing our best things. And maybe a little bit in being our best selves.

Thank you, Paul, and all those keeping his going in the right direction. Thank you for sharing your vision, your time, and your energy on something that may make the world a better place, corners of it at least, but will never earn you enough to ride into space for a minute or even to buy a Tesla.



It’s possible that the extreme itchiness is coming mainly from the ends of the fibers poking out of the yarn this way and that. The only idea I have other than what you have already done is to try to shave the inside of the sweater, focusing on the most bothersome areas.

I used to have a doohickey that I bought from Knitpicks years ago. Visualize a men’s electric shaver but with bigger parts (no one would want to use this on their skin!). It is designed to remove pills, and does so by cutting them off rather than pulling them off. So it wouldn’t be a go to tool for your nice cashmere,  but it might be the ticket for smoothing out the inside of the sweater on the theory that smoother might be more comfortable. It won’t make holes in your sweater (I used it on many sweaters, both hand knit and factory made).

They do still carry it. There are probably others I don’t know about, but here’s the link to the one I do know about:

https://www.knitpicks.com/lint-shaver/p/80635
1 month ago
This is just fantastic. What beautiful work. I am inspired.
1 month ago

r ranson wrote:



Collar - I think I have an idea but this is a very heavy garment so I'm going to run to the fabric shop to see if they have something like fusible interfacing but stretchy that I can add to the neckline before I put the collar on.  The weaver sews talks about knit interfacing for adding strength to seams, so I'll see what they have.

 



Great idea!
2 months ago
Regarding positioning the collar -
I have sewn a number of shirts, blouses and jackets in the way that you describe. Collars are generally always lined (and more often than not, and interfacing is added as well, but you can do without is the fabric will hold its shape).  I find that collars usually  lay better if the underside is of a slightly lighter fabric, but for a cloak that’s probably not a big deal.  Just be sure not to use a heavier fabric.

I’ve been thinking about what I would do given your design.  Because, I’m starting to think  that i might need to spin for a cloak, too!

So, here is my recommendation:

Cut out two collars, fabrics of your choice.

Right sides together, sew the sides and outer edges together.  But do not start the seam at the bottom edge.  If you’re using a 5/8” seam allowance, start sewing the side 5/8” from the bottom (or whatever seam allowance you are actually using).  And, you might want to mark he same spot on the other edge with a pin before you start sewing as a reminder to stop sewing 5/8” from the bottom edge on the other side. It’s easy to forget and just keep going and then have to pick it out.  

Note: Patterns usually have you turn up a hem-sized section of the layer that will end up on top (that will show while wearing) before sewing the layers together, and then sew the layers together such that at the turned up part you are sewing through 3 layers. I used to follow that direction slavishly. But now I prefer to leave that part of the collar free in case I end up needing to ease it a little later on, which for me is usually the case. My way has saved me headaches. If you do it my way, be sure to backstitch at the beginning and ending of your seaming.  And of course, do not sew the bottom edges at all.   Also,  I always go some backstitching at both sides of the points for reinforcement since one typically cuts off the seam allowance pretty closely at the point in order to allow it to be turned right side out (later) without getting all bunched up.

Now, turn the collar right side out. Mess around until it lays nicely and press it well.

Once turned, think of the  “wrong side” of the collar as the side that will not be seen.

Pin the collar to the cloak such that the “wrong side” is hanging downward against the right side of the cloak.  Make sure it’s where you want it. It would be a good idea to baste it in place to get rid of the pins.

If I read the other posts correctly, you are lining the cloak. If that is correct, then with the collar still hanging down, pin the lining to the cloak right sides together and stitch it.  Do it  just like you did with the collar:  don’t start the seam at the bottom edge of the cloak.  Decide how deep your hem will be and start there.
Your collar will be sandwiched between the two layers of the cloak (again, hanging down). When stitching the lining to the cloak, when you get to the collar position, you will be stitching through 3 layers: the cloak, the lining, and the “wrong side” of the collar where it is basted to the cloak. Be careful that you are not stitching through 4 layers. You want the bottom edge of the top part of the collar to remain free.

Turn it all right side out - the collar will reappear!  Press seams well. Now, you finally get to complete the collar. Turn the unfinished edge under and pin it down (yes, you will be working on the top, or “public side” layer of the collar).  Assuming that you have pressed the entire top edge of the cloak after turning it right side out, as you turn the collar under you will be able to match the position of the turned edge nicely to the edge of the lining.
Blind stitch the hem in place. I do this by hand. Voila. Done.

I would probably top stitch top across the entire neck edge (actually, I would top stitch down the fronts, too, after hemming is completed, because  I like how it looks).  It helps keep everything in place. But not all patterns call for it (though I usually do it anyway).

2 months ago
Cloaks cover more body. Where I live, cloak weather is the rainy season.
2 months ago
My aha moment regarding similar issues came when I was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis (at age 53).
3 months ago

Liv Smith wrote:

It’s totally fine to bring the dog. The yard is not fenced, but it doesn’t sound like he’s the running away type.



Thank you!
4 months ago
I would like to come, but first I have to ask permission to bring my dog Catfish.  He’s a little toy fox terrier (I know, hey?).  He will have turned 16 a few days before the get-together. He weighs 8 pounds and doesn’t bark. He does not see well.  He gets anxious when he can’t find me. So I don’t leave him home alone.  Until recently he’s had other companions to keep him comfortable, but now it’s just the two of us. And now that’s it’s so hot, I don’t leave him in the truck for more than a minute or two.

He was an accidental dog. I didn’t go looking for a dog, let alone this tiny little guy. I met him when he was four months old and he has been a faithful companion to me all these years. He is frail now (and a little demented I think).  It’s his time now.

If bringing him is not a good idea, no problem.  If it’s ok, sign me up.

Laura
4 months ago
I plant nasturtiums throughout my garden. Aphids seem to like them better, so they make a good trap plant anD the flowers are still nice. To ensure that the nasturtiums don’t attract aphids that wouldn’t otherwise come, I also plant French marigolds amongst the veggies.

PS I also plant  petunias.  They did such a good job repelling Japanese beetles when I lived in southern Indiana (as everyone else in town was spraying everything in sight - one guy I knew was standing on his roof with his sprayer because they were defoliating mature trees), that I figured the would help with other bad beetles, and they do

So: every year I plant my 3 flowers: nasturtiums, marigolds (French marigolds, which also make a nice fiber dye, and petunias.

Then I plant a variety of other flowers to attract pollinators.

I also plant herbs through the garden. Some are said to add vigor or flavor to their veg companions. Mostly, though, they do a good job of hiding  the aromas of other plants, helping to protect them from their insect adversaries.

I plant my 3 essential flowers in the same planters or ground  space  as the veg. With the herbs, I keep the invasive ones in pots located amongst the veg (eg mints).
5 months ago