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| [+] sewing » Tallukkaat - Winter boots sewn from wool scraps (Go to) | Betsy Carraway | |
You are a constant source of inspiration! |
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| [+] tinkering with this site » reputation on permies, and on the internet (Go to) | Julie Reed | |
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Ok,
A moment of dumbness here. It never occurred to me that Permies is a social media site Maybe because I’m kind of old? And remember online bulletin boards as a cool new thing? More likely, because I don’t do social media, for the reasons already pointed out. Tried them, don’t like them, waste of time, made me crabby. And certainly no better informed. So yeah, I see it now. Permies is a social media site. So it shows that it is possible for a social media site to be informative and collegial. To foster sharing instead of competition. Learning instead of mindless consuming. But, as Paul’s post points out, this doesn’t happen by accident. There are a lot of people (I say “a lot,” but I really have no idea how many — but double digits maybe?) spending (likely donating) a lot of time keeping things right. Monitoring. Rewarding. Encouraging. And key: not trying to make millions and billions of dollars off the “users.” Just enough to keep things going, it seems to me. So we can all be supported in doing our best things. And maybe a little bit in being our best selves. Thank you, Paul, and all those keeping his going in the right direction. Thank you for sharing your vision, your time, and your energy on something that may make the world a better place, corners of it at least, but will never earn you enough to ride into space for a minute or even to buy a Tesla. |
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| [+] animal fibers » Rescue an itchy wool sweater (Go to) | Donna Lynn | |
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It’s possible that the extreme itchiness is coming mainly from the ends of the fibers poking out of the yarn this way and that. The only idea I have other than what you have already done is to try to shave the inside of the sweater, focusing on the most bothersome areas.
I used to have a doohickey that I bought from Knitpicks years ago. Visualize a men’s electric shaver but with bigger parts (no one would want to use this on their skin!). It is designed to remove pills, and does so by cutting them off rather than pulling them off. So it wouldn’t be a go to tool for your nice cashmere, but it might be the ticket for smoothing out the inside of the sweater on the theory that smoother might be more comfortable. It won’t make holes in your sweater (I used it on many sweaters, both hand knit and factory made). They do still carry it. There are probably others I don’t know about, but here’s the link to the one I do know about: https://www.knitpicks.com/lint-shaver/p/80635 |
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| [+] textile techniques » Folly or fantastic - I'm growing a cloak! #CAPEtember2022 (Go to) | r ranson | |
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This is just fantastic. What beautiful work. I am inspired.
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| [+] textile techniques » Folly or fantastic - I'm growing a cloak! #CAPEtember2022 (Go to) | r ranson | |
Great idea! |
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| [+] textile techniques » Folly or fantastic - I'm growing a cloak! #CAPEtember2022 (Go to) | r ranson | |
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Regarding positioning the collar -
I have sewn a number of shirts, blouses and jackets in the way that you describe. Collars are generally always lined (and more often than not, and interfacing is added as well, but you can do without is the fabric will hold its shape). I find that collars usually lay better if the underside is of a slightly lighter fabric, but for a cloak that’s probably not a big deal. Just be sure not to use a heavier fabric. I’ve been thinking about what I would do given your design. Because, I’m starting to think that i might need to spin for a cloak, too! So, here is my recommendation: Cut out two collars, fabrics of your choice. Right sides together, sew the sides and outer edges together. But do not start the seam at the bottom edge. If you’re using a 5/8” seam allowance, start sewing the side 5/8” from the bottom (or whatever seam allowance you are actually using). And, you might want to mark he same spot on the other edge with a pin before you start sewing as a reminder to stop sewing 5/8” from the bottom edge on the other side. It’s easy to forget and just keep going and then have to pick it out. Note: Patterns usually have you turn up a hem-sized section of the layer that will end up on top (that will show while wearing) before sewing the layers together, and then sew the layers together such that at the turned up part you are sewing through 3 layers. I used to follow that direction slavishly. But now I prefer to leave that part of the collar free in case I end up needing to ease it a little later on, which for me is usually the case. My way has saved me headaches. If you do it my way, be sure to backstitch at the beginning and ending of your seaming. And of course, do not sew the bottom edges at all. Also, I always go some backstitching at both sides of the points for reinforcement since one typically cuts off the seam allowance pretty closely at the point in order to allow it to be turned right side out (later) without getting all bunched up. Now, turn the collar right side out. Mess around until it lays nicely and press it well. Once turned, think of the “wrong side” of the collar as the side that will not be seen. Pin the collar to the cloak such that the “wrong side” is hanging downward against the right side of the cloak. Make sure it’s where you want it. It would be a good idea to baste it in place to get rid of the pins. If I read the other posts correctly, you are lining the cloak. If that is correct, then with the collar still hanging down, pin the lining to the cloak right sides together and stitch it. Do it just like you did with the collar: don’t start the seam at the bottom edge of the cloak. Decide how deep your hem will be and start there. Your collar will be sandwiched between the two layers of the cloak (again, hanging down). When stitching the lining to the cloak, when you get to the collar position, you will be stitching through 3 layers: the cloak, the lining, and the “wrong side” of the collar where it is basted to the cloak. Be careful that you are not stitching through 4 layers. You want the bottom edge of the top part of the collar to remain free. Turn it all right side out - the collar will reappear! Press seams well. Now, you finally get to complete the collar. Turn the unfinished edge under and pin it down (yes, you will be working on the top, or “public side” layer of the collar). Assuming that you have pressed the entire top edge of the cloak after turning it right side out, as you turn the collar under you will be able to match the position of the turned edge nicely to the edge of the lining. Blind stitch the hem in place. I do this by hand. Voila. Done. I would probably top stitch top across the entire neck edge (actually, I would top stitch down the fronts, too, after hemming is completed, because I like how it looks). It helps keep everything in place. But not all patterns call for it (though I usually do it anyway). |
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| [+] meaningless drivel » which is best (bonus points if you tell me why) (Go to) | gir bot | |
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Cloaks cover more body. Where I live, cloak weather is the rainy season.
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| [+] personal care » sensitive to sun (Go to) | Amy Gardener | |
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My aha moment regarding similar issues came when I was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis (at age 53).
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| [+] cascadia » Portland permies - come meet Paul! (Go to) | Stacy Witscher | |
Thank you! |
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| [+] cascadia » Portland permies - come meet Paul! (Go to) | Stacy Witscher | |
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I would like to come, but first I have to ask permission to bring my dog Catfish. He’s a little toy fox terrier (I know, hey?). He will have turned 16 a few days before the get-together. He weighs 8 pounds and doesn’t bark. He does not see well. He gets anxious when he can’t find me. So I don’t leave him home alone. Until recently he’s had other companions to keep him comfortable, but now it’s just the two of us. And now that’s it’s so hot, I don’t leave him in the truck for more than a minute or two.
He was an accidental dog. I didn’t go looking for a dog, let alone this tiny little guy. I met him when he was four months old and he has been a faithful companion to me all these years. He is frail now (and a little demented I think). It’s his time now. If bringing him is not a good idea, no problem. If it’s ok, sign me up. Laura |
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| [+] pep animal care » Aphid Brainstorming Thread! (Go to) | Sarah Lennie | |
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I plant nasturtiums throughout my garden. Aphids seem to like them better, so they make a good trap plant anD the flowers are still nice. To ensure that the nasturtiums don’t attract aphids that wouldn’t otherwise come, I also plant French marigolds amongst the veggies.
PS I also plant petunias. They did such a good job repelling Japanese beetles when I lived in southern Indiana (as everyone else in town was spraying everything in sight - one guy I knew was standing on his roof with his sprayer because they were defoliating mature trees), that I figured the would help with other bad beetles, and they do So: every year I plant my 3 flowers: nasturtiums, marigolds (French marigolds, which also make a nice fiber dye, and petunias. Then I plant a variety of other flowers to attract pollinators. I also plant herbs through the garden. Some are said to add vigor or flavor to their veg companions. Mostly, though, they do a good job of hiding the aromas of other plants, helping to protect them from their insect adversaries. I plant my 3 essential flowers in the same planters or ground space as the veg. With the herbs, I keep the invasive ones in pots located amongst the veg (eg mints). |
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| [+] composting » Are all veg scraps created equal? (Go to) | Jeff Peter | |
Thanks! |
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| [+] composting » Are all veg scraps created equal? (Go to) | Jeff Peter | |
This fall I will be scoping out fallen leaf opportunities. My move into town is recent. It will be interesting to see how many leaves will be available to round up, since around here falling leaves and windstorms happen together. At my old place I had 10 large fruit trees in a little orchard and a couple of big leaf maple in the pasture, but what actually stayed on my ground long enough for me to pick up was surprisingly sparse. Naturally this fall I will get what I can. Until then, I have a lot of veg scraps ….. I think the bokashi suggestion is the way for me to go for managing the wet stuff that comes from the kitchen and the garden, and it looks like something I can do even with a very small yard. PS: given my small scale these days, I don’t even have a very high need for a lot of compost. Natural fertilizer, yes. But it doesn’t necessarily need to be in the form of compost per se. Most of my veg are growing in containers (fruit is in the ground, of course). I am no longer able to plant and care for row crops in the ground. So I need some, but not big amounts. But because I use and preserve fresh produce, (not all comes from my garden - we have good farm markets). I generate a whole lot of kitchen scrap and don’t want to send it to the landfill - to squander perfectly good nutrients while exacerbating the crisis of what is to be done with all that trash. PPS and maybe if the bokashi works out, I will be freed from the wretched black composter to process what my worms cannot! |
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| [+] composting » Are all veg scraps created equal? (Go to) | Jeff Peter | |
Wonderful! I have not heard of bokashi! Thank you. I am so pleased to have a new potential solution to research. Something new to learn. |
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| [+] composting » Are all veg scraps created equal? (Go to) | Jeff Peter | |
I know this is the way to go. My problem is that I never have enough “brown.” I used to have 2 acres from which to gather compost material, and I still had problems collecting enough brown. Now I find myself in town with a very small yard, most of which is in the process of being transformed into food garden. But nowhere are there, or will there be, browns lying around through the year waiting to be added to compost each time I add greens. So: Where are people getting all this brown? It rains all winter here and everything stays green. Do people go and buy their browns? When the rain ends I generally leave piles of weeds, etc, to dry and count them as browns, but it’s still not enough. (And so far this year, the rain is refusing to end.) I don’t like shredding cardboard or paper bags. If I were just composting for ornamentals I might not care. But without knowing what residues are in or on paper products, they are not going in with my food plants. I generate a LOT of vegetable scraps, not just from garden waste, but also from my own food processing. I rarely buy canned or frozen vegetables and fruits or products made from them (eg salsa, jams, pickled items, etc). I prepare and preserve my own, so, lots of scraps. This is what I do, for better or for worse 1. I have a worm farm. They are kind of like pets. They get fresh scraps from the kitchen, or fruits and vegetables from the garden that nobody wants to eat. I do not give them citrus or onion, or any animal product except a few ground eggshells for grit. They must like it ok because I have never had to add more worms. In fact sometimes I grab a couple handfuls and rehome them to other areas of the garden I am working to improve. As regards the question that started this thread, the worms plow through the squishy stuff fastest. Pineapple tops take a long time. Watermelon rind, less time. Tomato, apple core, any kind of thin skins, greens, really fast. 2. I direct bury. Both in the ground and in my larger (tall and wide) planters. It really doesn’t take long for the stuff to disappear (that is, if I dig there in a few weeks, there is no evidence of the scraps). 3. I don’t have enough space for a proper compost heap. So I use one of those black composters that turn using a handle and let the sun help to heat it. (Yes, it’s plastic. I know. I had to talk myself into it. I’m still on the fence about it.). Whatever browns I scrounge or create go there, as well as citrus, onions, weeds, and any other scraps. It takes a lot longer, but I am patient. After all. I have worms. Oh: and in each planter, whether it is 8x4 and 3 feet high, or just a big clay pot, each is treated to a mass of windfall wood and sticks before the soil goes in. The plants seem to like it, and it extends the time between watering without drowning the roots. But really. The browns. Do most people get their browns from their own place, or must they go buying or begging? In places where it rains a lot? And most of the trees and shrubs are evergreen? I put windfall sticks and limbs directly into the beds and planters. So, I’m talking other browns. To make 3x the greens. * It’s not that I have no brown. Just not that order of magnitude. I have learned, however, to keep a small supply handy for rapid intervention should the fruit flies begin to gather around the wretched composter, a harbinger of worse things to come. |
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| [+] textile techniques » Fiber: Sheep vs. Rabbit (Go to) | Carla Burke | |
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I just saw this from the daily ish.
I have had alpaca, pygora goats , and angora goats. Intended to get sheep, but moved. I never bothered with rabbits. Too little fiber, too much time. In the sheep v rabbit debate (I did not read all of the posts - just the first half dozen), There are 2 fundamental questions: How much fiber do you want? What do you want to do with it? Rabbit fiber feels wonderful, but it does not behave well in garments. It sheds copiously. Typically it is blended with wool (sheep!). Although angora sweaters were a thing some decades ago, it was fairly short lived. You need a lot of rabbits for a sweater, even a fine one, and they are hot. And messy. And hard to clean. Currently I see rabbit blended with other fibers and made into batts and rovings for hand spinners. I have bought these. Typically they are no more than 20% angora by weight, usually less. The blends are dreamy and soft and fun to spin. The yarn is usually used for hats, scarves, cowls. Not everyday ones. Things that don’t see heavy use or abrasion. Because yes, even with blending, it will shed. On your clothing, your coat, etc. Cashmere (from goat) is more practical for softness. It can be spun with a higher twist than rabbit without turning it into wire, so it doesn’t shed like crazy. Goats take more space, but are easier to care for. And a lot more fun to watch. They will crack you up. (Except for angora goats. They just stand there looking beautiful. They rarely will make you laugh out loud.). Another choice are pygora goats- a cross between the ever comical Pygmy goat and the angora (mohair) goat. They are nice and small. Some give fiber similar to regular mohair, some give fiber very close to cashmere, and some are in between. All of the fiber is nice. And, they are personable and like to have their bellies rubbed. In my experience, if they have enough space they won’t challenge fencing. My horse fencing was fine (the horses and pygora shared a large pasture but the pygora also had their own pen that the horses couldn’t get into). Just make sure the grid is smaller than their heads if your vegetable garden is on the other side. And, as a bonus, you will never have invasive blackberry again. They eat those first. Given my druthers, I would take pygora over rabbit for luxurious softness. And even though rabbit fur can be harvested more often, it’s still not going to add up to a pygora fleece. But sheep still win for versatility. With so many breeds, you can get whatever fiber characteristics you want — whether softness, or durability, or color - whatever. And, in my opinion, sheep are not dumb. They know what they need to do to have the best chance of staying safe and being fed, and they do it. Not as fun as goats, but if you’ve ever seen lambs frolicking, it’s darn close. A final note on sheep: the amount of care they need, common health problems, etc, varies a lot by breed. If you don’t want a lot of trouble, the so called primitive breeds are a good bet. Jacob. Icelandic. Shetland. Among others. These are sheep historically left to their own devices for months on end in harsh conditions. And they give lovely wool. And meat too, if you want that. Just make sure that whatever animal you choose, be sure that it will thrive in your climate. |
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| [+] textile techniques » twined rag rug 'how to' (Go to) | Jay Angler | |
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I just stumbled across this thread. What a find!
I am moving to a much smaller house with fewer amenities (eg no dishwasher). I need a good thick rug to save my poor feet while washing dishes. I have been pondering ways to make one. A good strong thick one that will not need constant straightening out. This is the rug! The tough warp and the twined weaving method should, I think, give me exactly what I need. And it will help to justify hanging on to my great big tapestry loom (which I was keeping anyway, but it it’s nice to have a better reason than “I like it” when faced with downsizing to a quarter of current space). So — thank you for posting these excellent directions. That was incredibly generous. One day I will post a photo of my rug. |
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| [+] cooking » goodbye microwave (Go to) | Lana Berticevich | |
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My vote:
Heavy Dutch oven with a rack to hold the food itself, or the food in a suitable heat safe dish. A good heavy Dutch oven is great on the stove top. Leave it dry, or add a little water if you want steam. They come in different sizes. Cast iron. Enameled or not. They don’t have to be wildly expensive. I just bought a 2 quart one for about $40.00. Dutch ovens work well outside too. You can bake wonderful biscuits over a campfire, not just cowboy stew. Old ones often had little feet for settling them over coals. A rice bag would heat up in a dry Dutch oven, but it would probably take a long time. I think the rice bag system was born specifically as a microwave thing. I get that they are nicer than water bottles because they can be draped. But they don’t last forever - the rice starts to scorch with all the heating. Maybe we need to think about a different material that could replace the rice but accomplish the same function? Is replacing rice with tiny metal beads a dumb idea? (Along with a thicker fabric holding them so one doesn’t get burned….) Or do what we do: skip the rice bag, rub some balm on the sore spot, wet small towel in really hot water (wring out excess water!), and drape it over the sore area. Quicker, and smells better. |
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| [+] cooking » *Welcome Leigh Tate, author of How to Bake without Baking Powder! (Go to) | Maggie Salomonsson | |
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Hi Leigh:
I got to this thread through the daily email. I clicked on the links in the first post to read about the focus of your book. Blew me away. I skipped the hopes (and the waiting) for a chance at a possible freebie and hit the buy it now button. Thank you for making such an interesting exploration into the science of cooking so affordable. As with any other topic, knowing how things work (and the whys and why nots) make the doing of like so much more fun interesting. And the best part, helps one to be more independent. I’m looking forward to spending some quality time with your book. |
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| [+] gear » Do you Low Tech? (Go to) | Jay Angler | |
I want to learn how to make one of those! I own a second hand (underutilized) stationary bicycle. That could be a good start. Now, just need to find out the how of it! |
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| [+] forest garden » Fighting codling moth and apple maggot in a food forest (Go to) | Geoff Colpitts | |
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Our place has a little orchard that the former owners planted, including 5 apple trees of different varieties. Soon after moving in I learned about coddling moths. In nearly every Apple. I don’t use and kind of pesticide or herbicide. I implemented advice as I found it, and I check apples thoroughly before eating them or preserving them. Here are some things I learned from various sources (previous owner, books and internet, Clackamas Community college demonstration project). This year I found only about 1 in 4 had been hosts to the moth larva.
1. Never let windfall apples lie. 2. Sticky traps: about 2 feet above ground, do the sticky traps where you wind a strip of paper around the trunk and coat it with sticky stuff. It’s not poison - it’s a trap. Apply liberally at edges to make a seal. 3: thin the clusters 4: Clackamas Community College did a demonstration project where they placed nylon socks (like the kind that sho store use) over apples when they were still tiny and had amazing results. Unfortunately, while doing a quick search to find a link to the project I couldn’t find it, but instead found that COVID has squelched the Home Or hard Society. Not sure why documents are gone. Maybe my search skills aren’t up to it. I did try this and as long as the socks don’t slide off, it is very effective, though incredibly time consuming and I could only reach where my 8’ orchard ladder took me. However, I did just now stumble across a newsletter that contains an article that provides even more advice, some of which is easier to do. Below I provide the link to the newsletter. I also copied and pasted the specific article in case that publication also disappears from the internet (or evades identification using ordinary search skills). https://wcfs.org/wp-content/uploads/2018_02_Spring_BeeLine.pdf Codling Moth (Cydia Pomonella) and Management Using CYD-X1 Sue Ryburn, Cooperative Workstudy Student, Clackamas Community College, Molalla, Oregon Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is the most serious pest of apples in the Pacific Northwest, especially in warmer and drier areas. Larvae feed directly on the fruit, either by “stinging” it or boring into it and feeding from within. Stings are shallow depressions where feeding occurred and then stopped. Larvae that bore into the fruit leave character- istic bore holes on the exterior, which fill with frass that ex- trudes from the hole. Biology and Life History Codling moths overwinter as mature larvae in silken co- coons spun under loose bark, in the soil, or in debris at the base of a tree. Pupation is in the spring around the time the first blossoms show pink Adults emerge around bloom, are active only at dusk and dawn, and lay eggs on leaves and sometimes on fruit. Larvae emerge, begin feeding on fruit, and may bore to the center of developing fruit to feed on the flesh and seeds. As larvae mature, they push frass out the entry hole. After 3 to 4 weeks, the larvae leave the fruit and seek a sheltered spot on the tree to spin cocoons. The larvae may overwinter in the cocoon, or they may emerge in 2 to 3 weeks as a new flight of adults. These adults are active in July and August. In warm areas, there may even be a third generation. Larvae of the third genera- tion often penetrate fruit but do not complete development before harvest or winter. Monitoring During spring, when blossoms are present, monitor with pheromone traps for the presence of codling moth. In July and August monitor the fruit weekly for new waves of adults. Evaluate 5% of randomly selected trees for ap- pearance of codling moth present on developing fruit. Cultural Control Remove fallen fruit and organic debris from around the base of the tree and do not put into compost. As a preventative measure, spray with kaolin or place kaolin -soaked socks (on smaller trees) on fruit after thinning. Install bat boxes to attract bats to prey upon codling moths. According to the PNW Handbook, mating disruption phero- mones can be used but are not effective for orchards less than 10 acres. Management Using CYD-X Codling moth granulosis virus CYD-X contains a naturally occurring virus that infects and kills codling moth larvae. This virus is host specific. It does not infect beneficial in- sects, fish, wildlife, livestock or humans. Granulosis virus is a selective biological insecticide that must be ingested to be effective. Each particle containing the virus is naturally micro-encapsulated within a protein occlusion body (OB) that protects it to some degree from degradation. Thorough coverage is important. The virus degrades when 2018 3 exposed to UV light. Frequent applications (every 7 to 10 days) are necessary if a grower relies only on granulosis virus for codling moth control especially when codling moth pres- sure is high. The virus controls larvae, but some fruit damage stings may be evident. How CYD-X Works The larval digestive tract of the codling moth is at a pH of 10, a high alkaline environment which dissolves the OB and re- leases the virus to penetrate the cells lining the gut. The viral DNA then “hijacks” the nucleus of the cell, directing it to rep- licate many copies of the virus, which rapidly spreads the in- fection to other organs. Within a few days the infected larva stops feeding and its melting organs fill with virus. Upon death the larva “melts,” its fragile outer skin disintegrating to release the liquefied remains of its internal organs, which con- tain billions of new virus OBs, each capable of initiating a new infection if ingested by another codling moth larva feed- ing at that site or wherever OBs have been deposited by raindrops, gravity, or by spraying CYD-X. Laboratory stud- ies have determined that a dose of 1 or 2 OBs is all that is re- quired to cause a lethal infection in half of the codling moth larvae tested. A single ounce of CYD-X biological insecti- cide contains nearly one trillion OBs. The virulent nature of CYD-X toward its host means it is effective at very low usage rates. Resources Pacific Northwest Insect Management Handbook, “Apple- Codling Moth.” https://pnwhandbooks.org/insect/tree-fruit/ apple/apple-codling-moth Brunner, Jay F. “Codling Moth,” WSU Tree Fruit Research and Extension Center, Orchard Pest Management Online. http://jenny.tfree,wsu.edu/opm/displaySpecies.php?pn=5 Cyd-X Technical Memo, http://www.certisusa.com/pdf- technical/cyd-x-technical-2009.pdf |
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| [+] communication » Alternatives to "How are you feeling?" (Go to) | Ashley Colby | |
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Regarding the askers (how are you feeling?), over time I have become less bothered by the ones who ask but really don’t want to know than the ones who ask and then are either 1) dismissive of the answers (oh, it’ll get better, oh, you should do. …), or 2) think they are offering empathy but don’t know what that means (i know just how you feel because I ….)
So here’s the rant. I have multiple sclerosis. Its a very weird and mercurial disease. It cannot be cured (yet). It is managed. MS happens when our immune systems decide here and there that the myelin sheath around nerve fibers in our brains and/or spinal cords are the enemy and chew holes in them (aka lesions). Our bodies do not know how to repair these holes. Think of an electrical wire with a break in the insulation. Sometimes it works , sometimes it doesn’t. Sometimes when it doesn’t work its no big deal. Sometimes it burns the house down. So, it is with us for life. If we are lucky we die of something else. I was not diagnosed until I was 53, and looking back, my doctor and I believe the symptoms started maybe 5 or 6 years earlier. So as people with MS go I am really lucky. The form I have is primary progressive. My symptoms do not abate, and slowly worsen. But I still walk unsupported (though not always gracefully) and can still pick up a 40 lb bag feed or salt or whatever. So I don’t look like I have a chronic, incurable disease. Back to the point. I don’t mind people asking me how I’m feeling. I don’t even really mind if they don’t pay attention to my answer or appear that they only asked to be polite. I have to offer grace on this. I’m sure I have done it myself over the years when my own problems (working too hard, trouble with a spouse, money troubles, whatever) made it hard for me to hear, or to be honest really to care about the answer, but yet I had an ingrained impetus to ask. What REALLY gets me is certain other responses I get when I actually explain what I’m feeling. If its with someone I have never discussed this condition before I also talk about how different it is for everyone with MS because symptoms depend on the location of their lesions and the severity at any given moment can depend on what else is going on (like, how hot is it? Did leg spasms keep me up all night — for me, they only happen in the night). Many people do not disclose that they have MS for a variety of reasons., Most often it is because they fear for their jobs, but there are many other reasons. One young man in my support group talks about how strong and fit he always was (and still is most of the time), but to him having MS means he is weak. He believes if he discloses his MS others will also think he is weak and treat him accordingly. He thinks his wife should leave him because of this. This man is still in his 20’s. As I said, I am really lucky. Anyway, since I don’t mind disclosing, I offer a offer a few sentences if it comes up in conversation because its a condition that people don’t know much about (scientists included!). I know I didn’t, and I have a degree in biology. Back to the point: what bugs me is not that people ask, even if insincerely, but rather two categories of responses: 1) they tell me how to fix it or at least manage it. This happens more than you think. They tell me that sticking to the Wahls diet (though typically they don’t know its name) will cure me. Or that I should walk a lot (because a celebrity from the 80s or 90s whose name escapes me managed his MS by walking a lot and he was fine. What’s wrong with this? I doubt that I have to explain that here but I can’t help it: it a) assumes that I am ignorant of these things or if not, closed minded about them or I would be following them already and be feeling all better, b) they can save me from myself and my ignorance/ muleishness, and c) they are so smart and are so happy I gave them this chance to perform this identity (ok, point c was snarky and purely gratuitous). 2) the empathy that isn’t empathy: they know exactly how I feel because sometimes they are forgetful and sometimes they get more tired when its hot and if they don’t drink enough water they also get leg cramps (btw, different from leg spasms. Ask me how I know). Etc. Many people do this not cynically, but because they are are trying to show they are hearing me, that they get it because they can connect it to their own experiences. They want to be with me on this without conveying pity (which is not empathy, nor even sympathy), and I appreciate that. But they don’t know, they can’t connect, and moreover, it is not necessary to try. The best response they could give (assuming they are interested) is something like acknowledging how that might be really frustrating, or really hard to get used to, or whatever. Empathy is acknowledgement of the existence of feelings, experiences, etc, of the other. Acknowledging that they are real. Maybe that if the had those experiences they might feel the same way. 3) one-upmanship (more common a response than one might think): if you think that’s bad, then ket me tell you about …..Some people responding this way may be trying to cheer me up (though I do not generally present myself as needing that) and they are not callous, just misguided. Others are just ultra competitive and any response to the how are you feeling question might have elicited that kind if rejoinder. If you made it thus far (I know, I do go on endlessly. I’m happy that its easy for you to just look, think oh her again, I got the point two thousand words ago, and that you are not trapped with me alone in an elevator stuck between floors), I’ll leave you with this: I’m pretty sure I have at some points in my life, probably a lot more often than I would like to think, committed all of the failures listed above. I’m pretty sure that mostly I thought I was being helpful but was too ignorant to know I was just trying to show I was smart. Also that I really, genuinely wanted to make it better and was offering what I had. (I still suffer from this kind of hubris - that it is my job to make things better and if I don’t know how, i can find out, though by now I’m better at recognizing when it rears its head so I can nip it in the bud). So, I do try to forgive it when I can. But, if at that moment I am rankled and am unable to be my best self, here’s what I do: I say, —-maybe you have MS too. You might think about talking with your doctor about that. I had no idea that these different things I was experiencing could all have same cause.. —- thank you (and move on as quickly as possible —- I’m sorry to hear that. That must be really frustrating/painful/scary ….. and move on — and when that doesn’t work, the blank stare generally does And if I have a need to express displeasure that is so strong in the moment that my adult self has left the room leaving me behind, I infuse the same words with a sarcastic voice learned in childhood and then castigate myself later. Or not. In a Nutshell: For those really wanting to show empathy after asking “how are you feeling?” I offer this tip which you may or may not find useful: ask questions. Do not provide answers unless your advice is asked for. Questions that show you really do want to understand what you are hearing. By asking those kinds of questions, the person knows you care enough to spend the time to really understand their experience. You have already made the person feel better by virtue of feeling heard. Its as simple as that, and IT IS THE MOST GENEROUS THING YOU CAN DO. This can be hard. Americans often are knee-jerk well-meaning fixers. I tend to be one of those; having MS has taught me a lot. But do this - the question thing, the not fixing thing - work on this only if you you really do want to understand. For its own sake. When you’re really not that interested? It happens to us all. We are not infinitely interested in sll thins and all people. The solution is simple: just don’t ask how they’re feeling. Find another socially appropriate catch phrase, like “hello, its good to see you.” It will serve both parties well. |
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| [+] cooking » Winter Squashes: What are their flavor profiles and uses? (Go to) | Hilary Duinker | |
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Got this in today’s daily
I read through a lot of the posts (can’t believe I did not find this earlier!). I am squash crazy - summer, winter, and in between. I end up with so many that I’m always trying new ways to preserve them with an eye to how I will use them. Here are a couple of things I’ve been doing this year: Dehydrating: Zucchini and banana: Slice medium with a mandolin. Too thin and they are hard to remove from the wire racks, too thick and they take forever. 130 degrees for however long it takes. Remove promptly to glass jars with good lids and store in a dark place. These sweeten up quite a bit in the dehydrator. I use the dried rounds: by tearing them up with my fingers add add them to my granola. I make big batches, so a lot of those squash get used there, by throwing a handful into other things I’m cooking (think: scrambled eggs, oatmeal, cookies, any meat dish that has a little cooking liquid, etc, soaking in a tiny bit of water to soften, then cover with good parmesan, shredded, and bake until crispy, run some through the spice grinder to help thicken things (I do this a lot for making taco seasoning) …. Canning: (I pressure can the squash, even when I add vinegar) I cut big chunks or spears. I can them plain (in water), for a quick veg side dish. This year I had such a glut I also canned some using pickling liquid leftover from making bread and butter pickles and pickled beets. I haven’t opened any of these yet, but I suspect the bread and butter liquid will be a better fit. Freezing: for the banana squash that get out of hand (2+ feet long, 2 arms to carry, hugged to chest), i bake the whole thing in the oven until very mushy, then let cool. Using my clean hands i pull out the seeds and membranes, then the flesh which I freeze in 2 cup portions. I have about 50 # in the freezer and expect to use it all. Soup, desert stuff, bread, casseroles, you name it. Btw, it is not recommended to can the mashed flesh - its too hard to ensure there are no air bubbles. I use it for both sweet and savory recipes. For example, I tried a recipe this year that had me peeling and cubing hard squash which was a chore. The result was delicious. But you know what ? The squash was mushy (in a good way) that I intend to use my already baked frozen squash in future. I do not like peeling and chopping raw squash (summer squash is exempted from this proclamation). Squashes that are in the middle (not summer squash, but aren’t real long keepers) i harden them off and use them first. Some (like delicious lakota) I dehydrate. Slices need to be fairly thin or it can take days the dehydrate and I do not have a solar dehydrator. I slice them with a mandoline. Sometimes I peel them, sometimes not. Depends on the skin. If the slicing (both to open the squash and the mandoline part) is difficult I put it in the microwave for a few minutes at a time or in a low oven until they slice nicely. I would not cook it all the way through because I think it would be too hard to handle getting it from squash to rack. I also would not pre-cook in any way that would add moisture (steaming, etc). If its really hard I will cook it just enough to get it open, then scoop out the seeds and stuff, then if its still too hard to easily glide through the mandoline, I cook it again. Having opened it and removing some wet stuff gives it a little head start on dehydrating, ar at least doesn’t add to it as steaming it or baking it longer whole might do. As for the squash that keeps well, don’t forget to harden it off after picking and before storing, not touching . And don’t forget to turn them over once in a while (ask me how I know). Ok - here I go with another missive. I will stop there. But one more thing — even some of the better keepers will end up in the dehydrator, jar, or freezer sometime in the winter when I have had a break from preserving and run out of my handy pre-processed stock. Oh, and a question: Has anyone fermented squash? Any successes to share? |
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| [+] sewing » Total knitting newbie (Go to) | Dorothy Pohorelow | |
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Try www.craftsy.com. They have good video classes on a variety of crafts. Knitting was one of the first and continues to be a major focus. Right now there is a special for new people and its a real steal: $3 for a membership that lets you watch anything on the site. I have done some of the classes and they are very good.
There is also a website for knitting / crochet that is a great place for inspiration, assistance, etc. its kind of to knitters what permies is to … to … permie people..You can find it at Www.ravelry.com |
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| [+] sewing » (Black)berry picking chaps (Go to) | Inge Leonora-den Ouden | |
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This is what I finally did: I hacked down all of my thorny volunteers and then I planted thornless blackberries in my orchard. The berries are large and delicious.
Living where I do, Himalayan blackberries are invasive - no square inch of land is safe. When I first moved here I used the keep a small patch for picking (and yes, pruning, pruning, pruning), and hacking out the rest as they appeared. Tired of the blood but still loving blackberries I bought thornless starts. It the best thing I ever did. They take care of themselves and just keep giving. Now, of course, I still have to hack out the thorny ones but it’s much easier to do it while small. And during the rainy season it’s possible to excise some roots from my heavy clay soil, slowing them down some. I was born and raised in Wisconsin and also lived for long periods in southern Indiana and the southern end of the San Joaquin Valley in California (not too far from the “government school” made famous by Steinbeck, and yes, it’s real). None of those places prepared me for the great blackberry takeover. It’s really something. Without cold cold winters or desert + crazy heat to slow them down, well ….. My rant for the week. |
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| [+] sewing » (Black)berry picking chaps (Go to) | Inge Leonora-den Ouden | |
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I do admire your industry and ingenuity!
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| [+] cottage industry » Is there enough interest in learning how to grow your own clothing? (Go to) | Edward Norton | |
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I would interested - more than interested, excited - to have a class focused on growing my on plant-based fiber. I have two alpaca and have many sources for others fleece (sheep, goat, etc) because I belong to a spinning guild and many members are shepherds. However, no one I know is growing fiber plants, and I’ve never seen a class for it (other than your own very fine video about flax I watched on YouTube awhile back; thank you for that).
I’m interested in any cellulose fiber I could grow in the pacific NW. I would absolutely support a Kickstarter for that. I would also be happy to serve as a tester or whatnot, if that would be of any use. [Useless note:I was going to say guinea pig, but it struck me that it may be a term that connotes negative practices. I must be showing my age, that it occurred to me at all (the term, that is). Something else to ponder as I chop down invasive blackberry.] |
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| [+] skills to inherit property » Looking for SKIP book reviewers (Go to) | Skandi Rogers | |
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I think I did it. No idea if it worked.
I liked the Chapter. The writing is clear and yo the point. It is enjoyable to read. Just a few editorial suggestions, no big deal. |
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| [+] forest garden » Need advice on starting a tropical food forest (Go to) | Dave Bross | |
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Mike
I just googled the Como. What a treasure! The “big idea” behind Mitchell parks is really the domes themselves, finished in the early 1960’s. Fun fact: Shape The world's only conoidal (not geodesic) glass house; the unique shape allows a better angle for solar heating and more height for tall trees. (https://milwaukeedomes.org/domes-technical). But the Como - that looks like a whole world unto itself. Thank you for posting about it. If/when I get back to Wisconsin (Mikwaukee is my hometown) I am definitely arranging a side trip. I hope you continue to post about the progress of your project. I was surprised to find that I can grow figs and pomegranates outdoors here in the Willamette Valley, but I do dream of growing my own avocados and papayas. Especially the papayas. |
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| [+] forest garden » Need advice on starting a tropical food forest (Go to) | Dave Bross | |
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Is the Mitchell Park Conservatory in Milwaukee still open? I made many visits to the domes while growing up. The tropical one was my favorite. If it’s still there, it might be worthwhile to chat with the people who care for the ecosystems in there.
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| [+] dogs and cats » Interested to know How many here desex their dogs and cats? (Go to) | Thomas Dean | |
Thank you for this. Does Dr. Hart define “early”? We neuter our dogs, but follow our vet’s advice not to do it before they are at least 6 months old. We tend to wait longer. But, I would be interested in any studies of correlates of neutering and subsequent illness that also control for age at neutering. |
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| [+] seeds and breeding » Landrace and Heirlooms (Go to) | William Jack | |
I have had pretty good luck planting red leaf lettuce among my brassicas. I just let it grow and bolt, leaving it in until I harvest the broccolini, kohlrabi, cabbage, etc |
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| [+] seeds and breeding » Landrace and Heirlooms (Go to) | William Jack | |
Said SO much better than I could. Thank you for your post. |
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| [+] seeds and breeding » Landrace and Heirlooms (Go to) | William Jack | |
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| [+] seeds and breeding » Landrace and Heirlooms (Go to) | William Jack | |
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Shoot: I posted where I wasn’t supposed to post. So, I copied it to this thread. I think it fits here rather than on another because all of the plants I put into my vegetable gardens are heirloom varieties (to the best of my knowledge, anyway). I apologize for the duplicate posting.
—————————- I did not know about this book. I think I need to read it. I stopped rototilling a couple of summers ago. I had only done it twice anyway. I didn’t like it. This year I am getting tons of volunteer plants. Turnip greens really surprised me - its the first time they have shown up since I planted them 4 years ago. I noticed them a few days ago in a thicket of cursed dock that I need to pluck. But here’s the thing: the dock leaves are riddled with bug holes while the turnip greens are nearly blemish free. I think I learned something here. There may be a place for dock. The real prize is 3 or 4 volunteer tomato plants. I did a poor job hardening off my tomato seedlings. Beyond poor. I put them out ‘for an hour’ and forgot them. All day long. Afternoon sun beating down. They are just now beginning to recover. But those volunteers will fill in the gap. I may have learned something here too. Maybe I can direct seed under good mulch (still learning the do’s and don’ts of gardening here in the Willamette valley). And of course, lots of squash vines are coming up. I saved squash seeds from last year’s garden but maybe I didn’t have to bother. It will be fun to see what they become. I hope there’s some hubbard … If this isn’t a good reason to stop tilling, I don’t know what is. Free plants, no labor, suited to my garden conditions, and the great fun of the wonder and anticipation. I need to learn more lest I do things that get in the way of my volunteers’ success now and in years to come. |
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| [+] seeds and breeding » *Welcome Joseph Lofthouse, author of Landrace Gardening (Go to) | Rebecca Potrafka | |
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I did not know about this book. I think I need to read it.
I stopped rototilling a couple of summers ago. I had only done it twice anyway. I didn’t like it. This year I am getting tons of volunteer plants. Turnip greens really surprised me - its the first time they have shown up since I planted them 4 years ago. I noticed them a few days ago in a thicket of cursed dock that I need to pluck. But here’s the thing: the dock leaves are riddled with bug holes while the turnip greens are nearly blemish free. I think I learned something here. There may be a place for dock. The real prize is 3 or 4 volunteer tomato plants. I did a poor job hardening off my tomato seedlings. Beyond poor. I put them out ‘for an hour’ and forgot them. All day long. Afternoon sun beating down. They are just now beginning to recover. But those volunteers will fill in the gap. I may have learned something here too. Maybe I can direct seed under good mulch (still learning the do’s and don’ts of gardening here in the Willamette valley). And of course, lots of squash vines are coming up. I saved squash seeds from last year’s garden but maybe I didn’t have to bother. It will be fun to see what they become. I hope there’s some hubbard … If this isn’t a good reason to stop tilling, I don’t know what is. Free plants, no labor, suited to my garden conditions, and the great fun of the wonder and anticipation. I need to learn more lest I do things that get in the way of my volunteers’ success now and in years to come. |
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| [+] plants » Help Me Identify These Vines, Please (Go to) | Rebecca Blake | |
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Years ago I had poison ivy vines that I didn’t know were poison ivy. I actually got poison ivy (or poison something) from time to time but never connected it with those vines. I ran across a drawing of poison ivy that actually proved more helpful than photos. The clincher was that it noted that poison ivy may produce small white berries. I say “may” only because I don’t know if there are variations in berry color and am too lazy to look up the answer to the question of whether all poison ivy produces white berries and only white berries.
Anyway, the berries told me that this pretty vine that I not only let grow in my cottage garden, but actually watered during drought, was the plant that was making me miserable. I got rid of it and never got poison ivy again. |
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