Matt Todd

pollinator
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since Apr 25, 2019
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Always a backyard gardener, now expanding into permaculture!
Northwest Missouri
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Recent posts by Matt Todd

Mk Neal wrote: The first picture is a close up of Prairie trillium (Trillium recurvatum) which will have a maroon flower, surrounded by green rosettes of the biennial tall bellflower (Campanulastrum americanum).



AWESOME! I was looking far and wide this morning to find a pic of the bellflower basal rosette and couldn't find anything... until I was on Permies later and tried on a whim. I transplanted several 2nd year bellflower off a path that will be mown and into a flower garden, and now I can ID and transplant some 1st year rosettes in the same place so they'll bloom next year. Biennial fun!

Juniper Zen wrote: I’m planning on replacing the bucket with an irrigation line that has nipples directly in it, so that the water is always fresh and never needs to be refilled. We’ll see how it goes.



Nipples directly on an irrigation line? Is that connected to a standard pressurized water system? I ran a line with a valve to fill my chicken nipple bucket, but that is still me manually filling the bucket. So if you've figured out a way to cut out the middle man and connect nipples directly to a water line I'd love to hear more!
6 days ago
Lufa will do the job if it has anything to climb! I shade my front porch with it every year. Just had to pop in some screws that I could hang some poly fence on as a removable trellis.
1 week ago
I pulled some elderberry from an undesirable location last year, later in the season than I probably should have transplanted them. They were leggy from being really shaded like yours. I transplanted 5 and 2 grew back this spring (in a climate where they die back over winter.)

So even in the worse conditions, some will make it back!
1 week ago

Anne Miller wrote:
My thought was to solarize, plant the strawberries this spring for erosion control, the sow the pollinator seed mix in the fall for next spring.

I see no reason to remove the strawberries. If they can't co-exist with the pollinator seed mix, nature will work everything out.

Sounds to me like this would make everyone happy.



Ok, I follow you now. And I likely still have time in the season to do this. In fact, I recently looked at wild strawberry seed for ground cover elsewhere... and found it difficult and expensive to find! So much for my bright idea of just broadcasting those. I'd need to grow plugs.
I agree that native pollinators should be able to bust up through wild strawberry, especially if it's not such an established dense mat yet. I think the issue I'm having is trying to cover too much ground too fast. Which I can get away with when seeding flat ground but may need to temper my expectations on this steep slope.
1 week ago

greg mosser wrote:can you leave your solarizing material on over the winter and do the seeding plus whatever else the following spring? that would at least avoid bare earth over the winter.



Well I would, but the seeds need to get the cold moist stratification from the winter.
2 weeks ago

Anne Miller wrote:Have you thought about growing a ground cover that pollinators would love?

I always think about creeping thyme but wild strawberries, Fragaria vesca, might be good, too.

In the fall you might be able to sow the native pollinator mix and everyone will be happy.



Don't I still run into the same problem with cover crops? Since I'd still have to remove all vegetation before growing a cover crop just like I would before growing the pollinator mix.
Am I missing something with the suggestion of cover crops?
2 weeks ago

R Scott wrote:If that's the case, I would do it in stages.  Either spots or narrow strips on contour, whichever work for your supplies and plants.
.



There's a thought! Strips on contour could work. Any thought/reasoning on top to bottom or bottom to top?
2 weeks ago

R Scott wrote:Definitely better than tilling, but it depends.
How prone to erosion?
When is the rainy season?
Could you add swales or other erosion control?
Could you plant an annual cover crop to hold the soil and prevent weeds from sprouting?



How prone- it's steep enough that a bare slope would erode quickly. I guess the seeds washing away is the bigger concern.
Rainy- Whenever Missouri feels like it! Heaviest rains in summer storms but early spring rains would still have a washing effect.
Erosion control- no swales possible here. The slope is maybe 12 feet top to bottom coming up from the roadway.
Cover crop- Anything I seed would have the same issues/sprout at the same time as the pollinators I want to grow.
2 weeks ago