paul wheaton wrote:
Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:The download link for the audiobook doesn't seem to be working. It's hanging up after a minute and failing. I've tried heaps of times
Gathering data ....
I just downloaded it. Quickly and without a blip. And my internet connection is mediocre.
Anybody else download it okay?
Dan, what is your internet connection like? What is your browser and os? Is it possible to try something else, or a different internet connection to see if we can narrow the problem down?
Peter Sedgwick wrote:
After watching videos and researching I feel like the bell bench would be the best option. Not a whole lot of info out there that I can find. Really going on Matt's explanation and the Sundog rebuild video for the construction tips. I've got access to tons of reclaimed cinder blocks. Thinking of using those, filled with cob, for the walls of the chamber then cobbing over and plastering with the same material I use on the floor. Maybe use paving stones for the top of the bench depending on how cheap I can get them. Other option would be to hammer out pieces of drum can like he did in the Sundog video. If anyone has other ideas I'm more than interested.
Daniel Ray wrote:Wow, great build. Love Calearth and what they do to teach.
I'm going to reiterate Thomas and mention the importance of insulating under the burn chamber. My first build was similar and it eventually burnt away the cement beneath the burn chamber.
Dillon, i think you were referring to Thomas' mention of the stratification chamber rather than the double barrel initial bell technique show in my photo. Thomas prefers using bricks for the transition area.
The half barrel stratification method is using barrels cut in half lengthwise and used for the second bell of the system as demonstrated here http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/716
Sonny, if you do stick with the piped bench, remember to calculate the total distance with +5 feet for every 90 turn. If you use a lot of elbows you'll need to figure how many 90s you end up doing before the chimney which looks like it will be in a good spot near the barrel. You should clear the top of the structure by several feet.
If you are unsure about cutting your bricks for the octagon riser, you could do a square riser with corner pieces for the first half of the riser which is successful at giving my stove the "rams horns effect". I've included another photo of this.
Good luck! and post some photos.
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:Hi Staci,
I used air separated fire clay that came from a ceramics place. I believe the stuff you may be able to get hold of is called "lincoln 60 fireclay"
I used the potter's fireclay without any issue.
I havn't sealed it yet so it's dusty (but very hard)
I need to find something to seal with that will not change the colour.
Lindseed will darken it.
I have been using Lincoln 60. Not happily.
Erica Wisner (author of one of the RMH books) was speaking of Lincoln 60 and of another type of fire clay (more potters type)..maybe that is what you had?
You have dust- but does do you have sand sloughing off?
Just a tiny bit of dust comes off.
The clay I used is a local company and not lincoln 60. I did go on the lincoln 60 website and looked and the contents of the clay (silica etc. blah blah I have no clue) and the guy at my ceramics shop said they were the same thing kind of.
Mine worked fine.
As for sealing, I have read (and planned to do it) that it can be rubbed with natural soap- glycerin type. I think you just rub the bar around on the plaster. Wouldn't work on mine though- with the crumbles. ;)
Might be something to try...?
Staci Kopcha wrote:Update: I went straight to the "big guns" and asked Erica Wisner.
She suggested trying some wet pottery clay.
I will get some tomorrow and begin processing. And then back to batch tests, phase 2.