Couple of extra ideas;
- a mattress topper that somehow eliminates the cold that can be sucked from you.
- Converting the oil furnace to vegetable oils.
- improving insulation generally and on the windows.
- create a small hydronic heater that pumps hot water through a radiator in the room.
In Australia we have discovered that bushfire smoke has an adverse effect on unborn babies and the placenta.
They are usually born underweight, and the placenta looks like one from a packet a day smoker.
In some cases the placenta needs to removed by surgery!
Stacey, that is an interesting story , the Covid Virus and its effect on newcomers.
You may get used to the idea of no mobile phone, they dont work where I live, but I do have a land line.
Its amusing to watch adult visitors mucking around on their phones like teenagers, trying to find a signal.
When the pain looks too great I let them know there is no signal and they struggle to believe its possible!!
Instead of another vehicle, have you thought about a trailer?
What is the issue with LP heating and its removal? Why not just turn it off if you dont want it?
If you have suspended solids in the water, the best thing is a large water tank, at least 10,000L to allow time for settlement to occur.
Then use a pressure pump to move the water to the house.
You may not need a filter after that.
As a Civil Engineer with no experience in log cabins, I would search for images of similar ones and see what they have done.
Can I ask why cordwood, when there is plenty of traditional log cabin building experience around?
Here is a link I found by searching, "building cord wood walls on pier and beam foundations"
The materials used today in French drains [mesh covered slotted pipes] are a vast improvement on the french
drains of the past.
Without having any idea of the dimensions involved I believe the French drain will be the most effective, because you are cutting off the flow where it actually is.
I have done that many times.
BUT it is important the pipe involved is big enough to cater for any flow.
Maybe a couple of pipes or a bigger pipe if possible will overcome that problem.
I would fill the trench almost completely with gravel so it cuts the ground flow at as much as possible
The thought of driving trucks through a 4 foot deep swale which intercepts ground water, sounds like a plan to get bogged everyday.
Can you give us a photo of the downstream side please?
On reflection messing with something thats has done well for so long may be unwise.
But maybe some improvements can be achieved where the erosion is and all will be wqll
I would suggest the installation of a "Safari" roof over your house.
They are another layer, insulated if need be that shades and creates an air space between the two roofs.
It will take 40deg C off the roof itself and vastly reduce the heat input as explained by Steven.
Hopefully the contractor or plumber will cooperate, after all you are paying the money.
But I know from bitter experience how they can resist extra work.
Perhaps approach it by asking,"what would the cost be involved ...."
It is important if you make any change of plans to get it priced before you agree to it.
It makes things a lot smoother at the end when its time to opay.
I have seen extra costs of greater than 20% of the original price because of changes requested without thoiught to the cost.
A couple of things to think about;
- instead of plywood under the roofing iron for cross bracing, hoop or strap irn could do the same job for much less cost.
- What forces are you dealing with regard to need to fix the posts to the ground?
uplift or sideway stability.
- What height are the posts planned to be?
Here in Australia I would use 2 inch water pipes as posts, set into holes at least 2 feet deep x 2 ft diameter
and filled with concrete.
The foundation has to be heavy enough to hold the structure down if big winds are about.
If the posts are set in this manner, no cross bracing of the walls would be required.
I suggest that there is good debt and bad debt.
Many just think any debt is BAD.
Trailers are very expensive starter points for building a house.
With a small debt and your own resources you may be able to start a small home that may be expanded later.
With 3 children, heating costs etc in a trailer I am sure would be a lot higher than in a small house well insulated.
Out of interest I searched for info and found some interesting points;
Oklahoma weather conditions create many difficulties for Oklahoma roofs. The suns harsh rays wear down the integrity of asphalt shingles over time.
With hail damage, ice damage and wind damage, the average lifetime of an asphalt roof in Oklahoma is 7 years.
Metal roofs have many benefits over asphalt roofing.
I found that metal roofs of corrugated iron, which we use here, are screwed to the battens on every ridge of the iron sheet to hold it down in Oklahoma.
We do it every 4th ridge in Australia below the tropics.
I imagine flying roofs have not been screwed down properly.
I can understand your concern, but it seems done properly, metal roofing works in windy areas. I saw a note somewhere that done to code in USA, it can withstand hurricanes!!
This brand makes this statement
The Varitile metal roofing system uses interlocking roof panels and batten-mounting. This interlocking system provides structural integrity.
The Varitile interlocking system creates an effective solution for freeze/thaw cycles, eliminating ice dams.
The design provides superior resistance to wind uplift. Most manufacturers categorize wind as an “Act of God” and do not warranty damage by wind. Varitile provides homeowners with a wind warranty.
Of course, Oklahoma roofs must withstand hail damage and the Varitile metal roofing system has been laboratory tested and shown to withstand 2 1/2″ simulated hailstones, while other roofs showed severe hail damage.
These truly are Storm Proof Roofs.
It could be that people are not attaching the metal roofing properly.
I would like to see how its installed.
I use it extensively and it is the 'go to product' in Australia.
We screw it to battens which are screwed to the rood trusses, maybe nails are used where you are.
I build a 14m x 7M shed that just sat on the ground, I store trailers in it.
I never got around to creating foundations.
Last year I had a storm hit hard, it lifted this shed and dropped it 5 feet away and not a single sheet came off.
We dont normally get winds like that.
Are cyclones prevalent at your place?
I have installed insulation to the outside of shipping containers by fastening horizontal beams along the container
and then fitting sarking and metal roofing vertically across the beams.
The beams are spaced to suit the container, IE top, middle and base of the container wall.
And have the sheet size of the insulation cut to suit.
Remember a prophet is always unwelcome in their homeland
In my experience it can be a lonely existence if you reject people who do think outside the square.
People seem to fear something different, I dont even argue with them, I present an idea and just keep
working with it. Sometimes others are surprised at the outcome and will come on board then.
Looks good Jason, and by yourself I WILL GIVE YOU DOUBLE POINTS!
Timber generally rots when it gets alternatively wet and dry, the best example is wharf timbers, where the waterline shows much damage
Compared with deep down or high up.
That water in your root cellar may come from a spring or ground water flow you have broken into.
It could give you a lot of grief, so if a deep french drain can be installed to keep the soil dry around the building perimeter
you may improve things a lot and reduce the humidity within the building as well.