Mike Haasl

Maybe hide glue or pine pitch would do the trick

Cultivating the Commons is a small operation near me so their seeds would be cold hardy enough.

Joseph Lofthouse's seeds are terrific and you can find them at a number of places.  He's in northern Utah so not terribly different from Missoula.  Joseph's seeds

Hi Erik, you sound like an "Otis".  At the top of the first post in this thread it has a chapter on Otis with some links to more info.  We aren't acting as matchmakers so it's up to the Otis to chose an heir.  Perhaps you might find someone you like by looking at the SKIP leaderboard.

Yes, I'll say it a different way but D is spot on.

The metal is a sheathing or siding, not the structure of the wall (typically).  You build a stud wall, insulate it, put a moisture barrier on the inside to keep humid air out of it and put a vapor barrier on the outside to keep air from washing (removing) the heat from the insulation.  Over top of that you add 1/2-1" battens and attach the metal to them.  That air gap is vented at the top and bottom so it should be full of exterior air that's a bit warmer than ambient due to the warmth of the building.  When condensation forms, it can run down the metal.  If it gets on the housewrap, no biggie since it's waterproof.  Just need to make sure it can get out at the bottom without weeping in under the bottom of the wall.

I hope that clears it up, if not, keep the questions coming!

As I read the requirements, it has to be 24 gallons per container and needs to go to a mulch pit.  Sorry :(

Good point Adrien!  Surviving is one thing, producing fruit is another...

I've wondered if other species that go dormant in winter might work.  And even plants that can handle freezing but just not my level of freezing in Wisconsin. Like figs....

I put mine on sawhorses (rabbit/chicken prevention) and in the shade of a cherry or apple tree.  At that time of year and in my part of the world, they aren't leafed out so they give good 50% shade.  First day or two they're right under the tree.  Then I move them further out toward the drip line so they get a few hours of direct sun late/early in the day.  Then I put them in fuller sun for a few days.  I try to plant them out when a day of overcast weather is forecast.

That being said, if you don't have the right kind of shade, I think your plan will work just splendidly.  Since the sun isn't ever directly overhead, it will be sneaking under #1, 2 and 3 and toasting the plants on the south side of the table and probably west side as well.  So if the legs were overhung to the south and west (less important for the softer morning sun from the east) they'd still cast light shade on all the seedlings.  This all depends on how much taller the legs are than the seedlings.

I might propose an upside down table with legs that are just taller than the seedlings and not extended to the S or W with:

1: window screen or pest protection that goes all the way down to the table top (blocks sun from the side)
2. layer of shade cloth over that (all the way to the table top) clipped on with clothespins
3. layer of shade cloth over that (all the way to the table top) clipped on with clothespins

Then just take a layer off every two or three days.  The screen is likely only 10% shade so when you remove it, plant them on the same day - ideally overcast.  That's so they aren't unprotected from nibblers.

Beautiful chair!  You might want to round off the two front corners so you don't bump your calves into them all the time

One trick to shortening chairs, or getting all four legs to sit evenly on the floor, is as follows..

Set it on a flat surface.  If wobbling, hold it or weight it down in the way you want it to sit.  Using a spacer of a desired thickness, mark around each leg.  So with a 1" spacer you'd mark 1" off the flat surface and then be cutting 1" off each leg.  Or a bit less off the short leg if there is one.

Good luck!