Those temps shouldn't be a problem for a fluffy mother hen. I had a hen two autumns ago who went broody in September (in WI). When the chicks were one week old (October) she had them outside in 40 degree rain. They'd run around for 5 minutes and then tuck under her for a minute and then run around again. My bird's breed (which is unknown) might be more cold tolerant than yours but I only turn on the heat if it gets below -15F...
The biggest challenge is her and the chicks getting down when they hatch. I made an insert box for my nest box that I could put the eggs and broody hen in. Then on day 21 I could slide it out and set it on the floor. Problem is that they hatched a bit early and I came in there to find a mama on the ground with some robust chicks and the half hatched ones were still up in the next box. I slid it out then and it worked. Maybe they'd've just jumped or died and once on the ground she didn't need a nest?
One problem is that she could have eggs of different ages under her. Then she will either abandon the early chicks to stay on the eggs or abandon the late eggs to hang out with the chicks. If you gather up enough eggs for her to do a new brood, remove and discard the current eggs and put the new ones under her, she'll just keep on sitting. Maybe in a cardboard box that fits inside the current nest box... So you can slide it out.....
My broody hens audition for a week or two before I give them eggs (or more accurately, gather enough clean nice eggs for them)
I don't worry about them being in the coop with the other birds. Somehow becoming a mother automatically raises a hen up in the pecking order. My hen's first order of business once the chicks hatch is to beat the crap out of any hen that comes near her or the chicks.
She is most likely eating and drinking, probably once or twice a day.
Here are a few thoughts from the peanut gallery...
Gir Bot was invented to save volunteer moderators from the stress and worry of every single moderation decision coming back to haunt them. So therefore Gir Bot is a wonderful thing
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If someone isn't nice in a PM, please please please report it and staff will take care of it.
Any mention of moderation, bad bots, censoring, "I can't say more or it will be deleted", etc falls into the category of "Discussing moderation outside of the Tinkering forum" and is automatically removed.
Hopefully this helps shed some light on the subject and we can all get back to planning our gardens for this coming season.
I think I vote for bigger. For that awesome graphical representation of the floor plan, it has a 2.5' diameter table. It's hard to fit more than three people at a table that size. The couch (as shown) is only a foot deep and the countertops are a bit over a foot. So I'm just saying that if full sized stuff is the beginning point, and the space is designed around them, it will likely lead to a bigger building.
My imagination says that a central octagon that is around 18' across is a good place to start...
This badge is about animal care. Animals are a huge benefit in the landscape, whether you decide to eat them or not. This aspect is set up with the idea that a vegan could complete the sand and straw badges in a way that could impress Otis.
To complete this BB, the minimum requirements are:
- You must gather 12 eggs
To document completion of the BB, provide the photos or video (<2 min) of the following:
- Tell us in 1 paragraph or less about the hens/ducks/etc you are collecting the eggs from (Are they yours? A friends? How many hens?)
- A bird in the nesting box
- An egg in the nesting box
- A full egg carton with the eggs you have collected
I love the reciprocal frame roofs and I can imagine the serenity of staring up at them. They don't need a circular window in the center but that would let lots of light in (when not covered in snow). They can span quite a distance (at least 30' diameter) and if supported from the inner walls of the rooms, the central area wouldn't be limited in size by it.
I'm thinking Nicole is right that multiple chimneys poking up could be excessive. I wonder about two RMHs with the distance between the exhaust pipe and the surface of the mass decreasing as it passes room to room. That way it might give each room roughly the same amount of heat. Or allow each room to be different and house the boots based on preferred room temperature.
I'm far from sure but I think Lorinne, Pearl and Bryant are talking about three different things...
I think Lorinne's snow is round balls of snow that are falling. Bigger than snowflakes and look like tiny snowballs. Soft and fun.
I think Pearl's precipitation may or may not also be known as "sleet". Icy sharp wind blown shards. Not soft and not fun.
I'm imagining Bryant's snow as normal snow on the ground that is melting fast and the parts that hold together look like balls or pieces of corn. They're quite wet and the skiing or snowmobiling season is just about over when you see that. Wet and slippery and not particularly fun when you fall and your butt gets wet.
At least that's what I'm interpreting of those different descriptions. The Inuit had many different names for "snow" and now I know why!
build a tiny shed on skids - 6 feet wide and 3 feet deep
- hold one garbage can
- hold one sand barrel (for winter traction)
- hold one recycling can
- maybe a shovel or two
- maybe offer power and/or water
- has a bench built in to the back side so people can sit under the roof
Build a cob sink
- Plaster with earthen plaster
- Include drain pipe and plumbing/faucet
- Oil with drying oil (linseed, tung, hemp, etc) and burnish till glossy
- When dried, it must hold water overnight without becoming soft or muddy
- Provide images of your process, stages of the build
- Provide video of inspecting the sink after holding water for a minimum of 12 hours. Show edge details, show that water has NOT seeped under or into the sink body.
(Donkey’s list) complete 2
- tree stand
- 15 feet up minimum
- 1 foot by 2 feet seat
- Ladder going up
- Build a solar finder, locate true solar south and leave a permanent marker
- Photograph the site before building your solar finder
- Photograph your finder on the site and prepared to mark
- Photograph your morning marks and your afternoon mark, as you make them
- Photograph the resulting marks that indicate Solar South
- Repeat this process 3 separate times on the same site and finder.
- Correct for errors and permanently mark the site for true Solar South (pictures!)
- permanent marker can be dry stack or something else weather resistant
- Hang a door using handmade wooden hinges
- includes making the wood hinges
- if you think of making this like a metal hinge, the job becomes three times bigger
- Build garden gate from found or harvested objects (take a look at woodland care)
- Must not sag
- Can be round or square wood
- Can use metal parts or be entirely metal
- Must be large enough to push a wheelbarrow through, without barking knuckles.
- Must be deer and dog proof
- Hang it! (can be on garden fence or wall)
- Earth plaster a wall, with varying patterns and color
- Minimum of 7 feet tall
- Minimum of 10 feet long
- Must use at least 2 different colors
- Must make your own plasters/paints
- Must have a pattern, stamped or sculpted into the wall
- dirt and linseed oil floor
- at least 100 square feet
- Fill Slip/straw (slip/fill) wall
- Must be minimum 7 feet tall
- Must be minimum 8 feet long
- Must be Minimum 8 inches thick
- Build short, dry stack rock foundation
- 18 inches above grade
- 18 inches below grade
- 18 inches wide
- 6 feet long
- Build adobe brick and cob bench
- Must be comfortable sitting height or include foot rest
- Must have backrest
- 2 butts wide minimum
- Roof not required, but helpful (makes for a larger project)
- Plasters not required, though nice sitting surface is.
- Clay paint a room or rooms
- Minimum 80 linear feet of wall (equivalent to 20X20 room, all walls)
- Make the paint
- May require adhesion coat on surfaces like wood
wood badge Finish the Donkey list
Build operating window, including frame from scratch
- Must open/close
- Build all pieces from wood, cut and fit
- Install glazing (glass, single or double is good; waxed paper or oiled animal skin is good too.)
- Window sill must shed water aggressively
straw bale wall in a wofati
- at least 10 feet long
- at least 8 feet tall
- 3 layers of plaster, both sides
- wall is “mouse tight”
- includes at least one door or one window
home made wood ash cement
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DP0t2MmOMEA - build one of the following:
- 5 gallon plant pot
- 5 gallon water trough
- combination bird bath and insect watering station
- 3 flow form water aerators
Build freezer wofati
- at least 100 square feet of freezer space
- at least 100 square feet of root cellar space
- wall with door between freezer space and root cellar space - slip straw
- exterior uphill wall with door - slip straw
complete one of:
- Cob floor
- at least 100 square feet
- Show images of the build phases; underlayment, drain layer, insulation (if any), road base and top-coat.
- When the top coat is dry, oil the floor using a drying oil (linseed, tung, hemp seed, etc.) until the floor is full and ready to rest.
- wattle and daub wall for a berm shed
- at least 8 feet wide
- at least 7 feet tall
- can include a door and a window
- Finish Plaster (both sides)
- Lime plaster a wall or set of walls
- At least 16 feet long (total)
- At least 7 feet tall
- Must have door and window (doors and windows increase difficulty)
- All 3 major coats (Scratch,brown,finish)
- tree house
- Must have sleeping space
- Must have space to store gear
- Must average 10 feet off the ground or above
- Must be a minimum of 70 square feet
- must have a head clearance inside of 7 feet
- Does not have to be insulated
- Must be mouse-tight
- Build a cob bench with a roundpole construction roof.
- Think about the intent of this bench. When will it be in use and why? Is it a place to read in the shade on a hot afternoon or is it a perfect location to view sunsets? Should it be cool and shady or warm in the evening?
- Orient the build to the sun. Whether the intent is to provide shade or capture heat, arrange the pieces so it will accomplish this passively.
- Provide notes with images of the bare site, why you chose it and what you hope to do there.
- Show images of each stage of the building process: foundation, cob work, roofing.
- How will this roof shed weather to protect the cob? Will it have a snow load, how will you deal with that? Show images of overhangs or gutter/downspout details.
- Show images of ground works and site drainage. Is the bench susceptible to surface water problems? How will you deal with this?
- Create a plan for maintenance.
- Build adobe doghouse (or faerie house) with Nubian vault roof
- Waterproof top, using earthen plaster (no plastic)
- Linseed or lime mixes acceptable for roof
- Provide proper downspouts
- Drystack stone foundation
- Cob sun trap
- Wall minimum length, 15 linear feet
- Minimum height, 6 feet tall
- Proportion of 1 thick to 6 tall
- Include gravel drainage trench below foundation with drain to daylight
- Include rock foundation at least 18 inches tall
- Include arched passthrough, hang a door or gate
- Include sculpted niches for flowerpots and/or tools
- Include roofing to protect wall
- Include sitting area and room for plantings/trees
- Black plaster and weatherproof
- a piece of an outdoor classroom with a rumford fireplace
- cob bench with roof over the bench
- 15 linear feet
- Rumford must include chimney
- Rumford must heat persons, seated on the cob bench.
- Firewood storage, minimum of 4 feet cubed, under cover.
build a wofati and live in it for a winter
- sleeping space (twin size or larger)
- rocket wood cook stove (rocket badge)
- rocket oven (rocket badge)
- a sink-like place to wash dishes
- place to store food and related kitchen gear
- area on top of wofati is fully planted
- place to sit and eat for four people (from woodworking badges)
- willow feeder can be a separate structure (willow feeder badge)
- minimum of 200 square feet interior
- cob floor
- one magnificent thing
o round door
- well insulated (so, at least 8 inches thick)
- at least 6 feet in diameter
- hinge point is outside of the door
- latch mechanism is in direct center of door
o taller structure with a magnificent loft space
o working with art and/or oddly shaped round wood
- the amount of work is clearly as much (or more) than making a magnificent round door
- “art” is difficult to measure. good chance that the evaluator might say “more”
o 600 square feet
o double deck
o 10 foot eave instead of 5 foot eave
o indoor bathroom
- willow feeder
- must be a door and window on the uphill side, and another door and window on the downhill side
- mouse tight (mice cannot get in)
- doors have wood hinges
- uphill and downhill walls are super insulated
o straw bale
o slip straw
o double wall
o possibly with one or more bee hives
- structure must be 100% complete by october 15. “live in it for a winter” means october 15 to march 20 with being gone for no more than 7 days. (online daily selfie photo journal including inside and outside temp?)
Can you get wood chips from local sources in your area? I can get bunches of them from the city and some people have luck getting them from tree services. Seems like it could be better to divert them from a waste stream instead of growing them for the purpose.
Regardless, in my area, box elder, willow and hybrid poplar would be the ones I'd be looking at.
Thanks Lee, that's a great start. I'm assuming the video isn't already out in public on youtube? Just starting a thread in the forum that best matches it would be a great start. Throw some links in there to Nicholas or his school to get the good traffic flowing and see how it goes. If it's free access on his site then putting a link in a thread here would also be peachy.
Agreed! Our number one rule is to BE NICE. Even if you have extremely strong feelings about something, please find a nice way to discuss it. There are many many places on the internet for hate and people bashing but permies isn't one of them.
Yeah, I've dreamed about a ceiling like that. Maybe I'll build a tiny home on my property using that technique. And I've seen them with lofts... And I think it fits those criteria (earthen roof on top).
I tried into my upper arm and it's borderline. If I bend both elbows and cross my arms and crane my neck down and forward it seems like it would be effective to cough into that cranny. I think we have a plan! Thanks team
Yes, Erik is faster at doing the BBs than we are at typing them up. I'm thinking that until we have them defined and typed up, it would be best to not post them. Just in case the requirements are more stringent that the photographs that are posted. Otherwise the person writing them up may struggle to decide if they should write them up the way they wanted or fudge it to match the documentation you predicted would be enough.
I'll say that this one will be certified for those 2.5 points when we have the BB done. But it may be a while before we get them all written up. We have about 1,000 to type up. Any volunteers out there!
So take lots of photos of any work that will be submitted in the future! Generally we aim for a before, during and after bit of evidence. Sometimes it makes sense to take more (like closeups of a breaker box in this case).
To do it with air, I'd definitely put a long pipe down into the well (4-6") and blow cold air down and let it get heated up by the casing on its way back up. Just putting a fan on the casing won't suck much since there's no way for air to get down in there in the first place.
Putting two 1.5" pipes into the well with a U at the bottom connecting them could be a liquid option. Have them go down into the water as deep as possible without hitting the pump. Circulate water down and then up through a radiator with a fan on it.
Designing the greenhouse for heat retention will make a really big difference. If you put my greenhouse in your back yard it would probably never go below 50 even without heat.
I'm old enough that coughing into your elbow wasn't a thing when I learned my manners. If I cup my mouth and cough into my hand, I can see how the majority of the liquid is caught on my hand (and then wiped on my pants). If I'm really good and raise up my t-shirt collar and cough into my shirt it could be even better. If I cough in my elbow it seems to fly everywhere. Maybe it's because my arms are long and I can't reach my elbow.
So is it worse to shoot the juicy stuff over and under my elbow into the vicinity but keep my hands pristine? Or better to cough in my hand and try not to spread it by touch? Or do I need to go back to first grade for some more learning...
I've tried fire cider and made it. I'm not sure it works (haven't have enough colds where I could see a clear difference) but it sure is potent seeming. Last time I had a cold coming on but didn't have any cider handy. So I made some and tried it before it had a chance to age. If you think normal fire cider clears out your sinuses, try fresh (for better or worse)!
The first year I grew tomatoes in a brand new garden, I got early wilt and blossom end rot. I believe those plants were grown from seed so I doubt I carried over any diseases. I think I'll continue to be lazy and just plant a few extra to offset the losses...
I do a good crop rotation but I'm not monocrop. Each 12' row moves up 4 rows in the garden each year. So you can rotate without having to be a monocrop...
I'm pretty sure that they will move laterally if there is a worm friendly path to get from point A to point B and a reason for them to move. I'm guessing the best way to speed it up would be to take a few shovel fulls of soil from a wormy place and inoculate it into the new locations. That should give you some adult worms and some eggs to rapidly take over the new territory.
Hi Myron, there's an excellent permaculture youtuber with the channel Edible Acres. He has a north facing site with very wet soil. You could likely get a bunch of ideas from his videos. The things that come to mind are to give the water a place to flow (small waterways and ponds) and to create raised beds for plants that need to be up and dry.
I think it's also highly dependent upon the species. Largemouth bass and bluegills are a farm pond staple around here. They can handle a bit warmer water and less oxygen (I think). Trout are trickier. Some species are probably even easier (catfish? carp? bullheads?) in mucky low oxygen waters.
So what does the "Total Recovered" number in the chart mean? Is that the number that survived and are over it? So (per Greg's screenshot), 11,000 people currently have it, 259 died from it and 252 survived it?
Or is it that of 11,000 cases, some portion of which were hospitalized for it (presumably elderly or immune-compromised) and of that subset, half lived and half died?
Sorry if this was covered earlier in the thread...
I think it depends greatly on what the core vision of the event is.
To me, when I hear:
Appropriate Technology Course - I think of a class on some sort of technology that is appropriate (not sure what that is but it's likely cool?)
Permaculture Technology Jamboree - I think of a big shin dig where people are showing off, making or learning about permaculture technology (proven and experimentational)
Permaculture Mad Scientist Jamboree - I think of a big shin dig where it's focused on the bleeding edge of experimentation and could be a bit crazy (fresnel lens powered humanure to drinking water machine)
Of the current 10 tracks, I'd guess that most of them align with the PTJ concept (as it sits in my head at this moment). I'm thinking only tracks 1-3 and then parts of 4-6 fit the PMSJ label.
Hi C, good post! A couple details that I think could influence your design...
I believe they want to have this as extra bunk space if a big event is happening during the colder seasons. So I'm guessing the garage door can't close in those circumstances. They'll probably put in a RMH so that should add some heating capability and mass.
I believe the bedrock is a couple inches underground so frost heaving shouldn't be a problem. Just scrape away the gravel and you have your 275,000,000 lb footing ready to go. Insulating it is a different problem...
For a curve, taking thin strips of wood and bending them around a form and screwing them together works and is low cost. I did the same with four thin strips of wood and chunks of 2x6. I did use glue but extra screws could have done the trick.
For ventilation space, I don't really know how much they'll need. The whole volume of the garage is helping to average out the overheating. It will be interesting to see how much vent area they need. Better to err on the side of extra.
How old is the bowl? I think they are generally made from green wood otherwise it would crack before the bowl could be made. Once it's "turned" or made, it dries out pretty quickly. Instead of cracking, the bowl just flares open or closed a bit.
So if the bowl is more than 2-3 months old, I'm guessing it won't need any attention. If it's younger than that, the bag idea is probably what I'd do for a month or two. But hopefully someone with more know-how chimes in...
On second thought, if it's at 60% moisture content when they make the bowl, and it dries out pretty fast once it's turned into a thin curvy bowl, it's probably used to dramatic moisture losses. So after a few weeks, moving it somewhere drier may not be a big deal.
I do agree that there are lots of ways to dissuade bears from an area. My situation is either of:
college campus natural area
Neither should have dogs running loose, nor an expectation of a person with a gun handy to shoot the bear. Other wild life or non-wild life in the area is expected to be people, deer and dogs. I'm thinking a dog sized fence is a good idea. With a sign for people explaining the glory of the system (and that they shouldn't step on the nails). Deer I'm not really worried about if there's a small fence around it and it's in the open.