C Chasens wrote:Has anybody got experience with silicon dioxide batteries - Soneil is a brand - for off-grid solar? I would really appreciate hearing your experiences.
I expect to replace our FLA battery bank in Fall 2021, and am researching possibilities.
Lithium Iron Phosphate sound good, but I am concerned that, up here in northern Canada, we are too cold for the temperature range.
did anything come of this? Most of ontario townships have square footage minimums that rule out tiny homes. Curious if it went forwards...
C. West wrote:Me and my girlfriend have been looking at pre fab and simple design houses and trailers and the one we are most impressed by cost and looks wise is avrame.
As far as we can tell (and I have had some correspondence with the company as well) you buy the plans and they contact a lumber mill near you to cut the pieces needed to build and send to your location. after that we use the plans given and build, if I remember correct it takes only a few weeks, and only needs two people
ill linkto their website s those more experienced than me can take a look.
My main concerns are whether I as an inexperienced builder (have to framing and roofing, as well as helped build some sheds) am biting off more than I can chew, and the other main concern is that its hard to find any reviews, positive or negative. All info and videos of the a-frames come from them.
what do you all think?
ps I plan on heating it with a rocket mass heater, any concerns there with its shape/floor?
Any input welcome.
Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Well it seems I accidentally muddied the waters. Not what I was aiming to do, so that's my bad.
It may be that the hardware is much more tolerant of voltages bouncing around, including brownout as the battery voltage drops and the system crashes. I suspect it's not sustainable, but the only way to really know is to experiment.
I've always liked old laptops for this sort of stuff. An old battery pack provides a buffer for power oddities, even if it only has five minutes' run time left in it.
it sounds like a great option Jeremy. At 200 ft away and 50ft drop You would want a submersible pump min of 1/2 hp preferably 3/4 if you have a stable source of power. Those pumps could easily do the job directly to the house. I would want to have it tested though and maybe install a UV system at the house in case of seasonal contamination...
Jeremy Bromwell wrote:Hey all - I'm totally new here but have done some reading and think this would be a great spot to ask for recommendations on a discovery that happened at the land I recently purchased in southeast TN.
As my dirt guy was working on grading out the driveway through what has been hay fields for years he uncovered a nice bubbling spring in a ditch that ran across the field. Unlike some of the other water we've discovered on land very quickly, without going very deep, there were 5 or 6 spots visibly bubbling close to one another.
Knowing that the city is a mess and they don't know where the water line is and that the well option is expensive and the one outfit in town can't get me water for several months he proposed this spring as an option that would get me water really quickly.
His approach is to get a 6 ft tile (culvert) that he would dig down to towards the source of the emerging water. The local place will make a cap for the tile as well with a hole in it for a well pump. He'd then be surrounding the vertical pipe/basin with gravel rock to keep it in place and keep the other water from rains flowing around the system.
This all seems to make sense to me and once he starts digging I can more accurately measure flow and get some water to have it tested to see if it's suitable for drinking as is or what kind of filtration/treatment would be needed.
My question for those with way more experience than me is - does this sound like a good approach? What should I be looking out for as we move forward? The site where I'll be building the home is a couple hundred feet away and about 50' higher than the top of this tank so I'm thinking I'll want some other elevated tank near the home site to actually create the right pressure inside but does that depend on the flow at the holding tank and type pump I get there?
I have talked to the gentleman that has been cutting hay on and next to this land for decades to ask him if that little section of the ditch ever went dry and he has said not that he knows of, which jives with the vegetation.
I'll keep digging through the other posts but also thought I would ask you guys (and gals) for advice about the situation that has recently become pressing! Thanks so much!
they are in your neck of the woods so local is good. They use a lithium iron cel similar to the ones used in most of the better lithium systems. You are buying a pretty high end battery with cool case, mounting system, power rails etc. For a comparison simpliphi is a less high end product with near identical cels but less packaging... price per watt is a fair bit lower...
Nicole From Maui wrote:Hi there, we've been recommended Blue Ion batteries for our solar setup. Anyone using them? If so, any feedback would be great.
hi joe how big is the inverter? Next would be what is its standby by power consumption. Finally at what voltage does the low voltage alarm go off? A lot of cheap inverters have an alarm set to go off at a high voltage to avoid you not being able to start your car. My solution would be to find a small inverter say 75 to 150 watts to run the lights. Much more efficient and cheap... see if that works. Next would be is the trickle charger doing its job, finally, possible battery problems...
Joe Krein wrote:Hi, everyone! Thanks for letting me pick your collective Brain!
I recently purchased a deep cycle battery, a pure sine wave inverter, and a battery re-conditioner/trickle charger. I intend to build a small solar array in the spring. In the mean time, I am experimenting with charging the battery with my 1250 watt generator => trickle charger => battery. I know that this is a terribly inefficient way to go about things, but it's just a temporary way to begin the learning process about battery power and a way to avoid having to transport the battery back and forth to charge it from house power, so please forgive the transgression!
In any case, all that I typically power with the battery is a 50' run of LED rope lights out at my yurt. They are 110V plug-in type lights, plugged right into the outlet on the inverter. I believe the draw is pretty low (approx 33W) but even once the battery is fully charged to 12.5 or 13V, I can not run the lights very long (approx 45 minutes) before the inverter begins to alarm, indicating that the voltage of the battery has dropped below some critical threshold. (I think at that point the battery is down to about 11 - 11.5V).
Does this make sense to anyone with more than my very rudimentary electrical understanding (i.e. me)? I had hoped that the lights would just keep running until the battery was fully drained... what gives?
Looking forward to where this leads,
any pump submersible or jet should work in that well. I would leave the pitcher pump in place and install something new alongside it.
Mountain Light wrote:Hey all,
I recently purchased an older home (early 1900s) with a pitcher pump well that has fallen into some decay. I tried running a 35 ft. measuring tape down the shaft and it came back fairly wet at the end, though I'm not certain if that indicates the well itself is still usable. Local well drillers I've talked to are either unresponsive or only interested in projects involving a new well entirely being drilled.
I had thought that perhaps something like the Legacy Food emergency hand pump might work to extract water without fixing the entire pump shaft, but having never used it before I'm uncertain.