James Landreth

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since Jan 26, 2015
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Recent posts by James Landreth

Thank you! That's very kind of you to say
3 months ago
Hello, friends, farmers, and longtime lurkers,

As some of you may know, I have spent the last few years trying to set up and establish community food forests. One of the first I did was at a church in Shelton, Washington. My efforts merged last year with an organization named Mason County Climate Justice. Here’s a link to the thread I made around the time that this food forest was planted

Recently, Raintree Nursery interviewed me to see how this planting is going. So if you’d like to see, please check it out here:

Lastly, if you want to know more about Mason County Climate Justice, the website link is below. We set up community food forests, give away fruit and nut trees, and protect in-tact forests.

3 months ago

John Suavecito wrote:I feel like I keep repeating myself, even in the same thread.

From this same thread, a few posts ago:" I dig one spade depth into the ground at the dripline, and jimmy it back and forth to create an upside down triangular solid crevasse, then I fill it.  Then I cover it, so it doesn't dry out."

I use whole wheat flour, ag lime, compost, rotten fruit, worm compost (castings), seaweed and urine, because they are free or cheap and nutritious.

John S

Hi John,

I had read that, but wanted to know if that's specifically how you do it for established trees, as I mentioned. I wasn't sure if it was different from when planting a sapling. I didn't mean to cause a kerfuffle

Specifically, when I have seen your place in the past, I saw you had applied biochar to the surface, including to your American persimmons. So I wasn't sure if the spading was just for new trees, and if it's better to avoid disturbing the soil around established trees.

My mistake.
3 months ago
When you apply it to an established tree, do you just put it on the surface or do you mixed it in? What do you use to charge your biochar, if you do charge it?
3 months ago
I know this is a big topic, but stick with me.

This is just for brainstorming and dreaming purposes. Everything starts with ideas.

Let’s say that you had 50,000 square miles to work with (about the size of the core of Seattle). And let’s say demand for living there was an assumed given.

In your area (or in mine, the PNW):

What materials would you build out of for housing?

What options would you favor for public transit?

Would you build underground to save surface space, or do green roofs?

What kind of industries do you think would be feasible for supporting people financially?

4 months ago
I'm trying to get people in my area excited about growing food. However, many don't have access to outdoor growing space or time for community gardening. So, I'm looking to share edible houseplants with people.

So far I've grown citrus and dragon fruit with some success. Does anyone else have any ideas? Herbs come to mind.
4 months ago
I recommend a breathable row cover draped over it (if you can find the material in a square form) and Christmas lights (non-LED, so they make heat) That's what people do here with citrus, for example.
5 months ago
I had luck with Arbequina surviving unprotected in an area of western Washington that was probably zone 7b. It's worth a shot but with some protection and consideration

People are growing it, and others, in this region with success. Our winters are fairly long though relatively mild compared to colder zones
5 months ago

Eric Hanson wrote:Absolutely Jay, I love strawberries as well!   I didn't know if strawberries counted as bush/tree fruit so I did not count it, but absolutely I would want my homestead to include strawberries.

If I could, I would also grow black currents, Aronias and Lingonberries.  I might be able to get by with black currents, but the Lingonberries are a high northern fruit, common in Sweden and Norway--a far cry from my climate zone!


Eric, what zone are you in? I know people here in Washington, Oregon, and British Columbia grow lingonberries (I myself have) in zones 7-9
5 months ago

Jay Angler wrote:

Eric Hanson wrote: Paul has mentioned that he heated his home over the winter with a RMH that used a little over 1 cord of (fairy low quality) firewood.  10 trees x 15 cubic feet=150 cubic feet.  One standard cord = 128 cubic feet.  That one row might be enough to fuel one RMH for one home for one season.

Excellent starting point for many people!  That said, if you've got a food forest as well, there will likely be a certain amount of pruning required just to keep paths cleared or to remove storm damage. I recall reading somewhere that many of the traditional hedges in England were a big part of their firewood system.

Finding a way to stack functions is important. A book I read recently had some interesting research about how monoculture fir forests, which is often my government's and my forest managers idea of a "forest" is contributing majorly to forest fires and land degradation. I think that's why I was asking whether this was part of James Landreth's thinking.

Where I live (just south of you) it's the same. Vast forests of doug fir monocrop that cause all sorts of problems. It's a bit unbearable, and it promotes the image that things are healthy and this state is 'green.' Anything we can do to move away from it is great in my opinion.
5 months ago