Satamax Antone

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since Sep 24, 2011
Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft elevation
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Recent posts by Satamax Antone

Chimney and through the roof, chimney, chimney and chimney. That is the only answer. Nothing else. Venting through walls, window is just asking for trouble, or death. If you could take pics of your interior, it would be helpful.

You have wooden floors/joists?

But first, read this.

If you plan to heat, a batch rocket is cleverer i think.

2 days ago
Well, you seem to have plenty of gap. 4 inches may from the bricks to the  manifold tube? Have you added insulation around the "core"?

If your top gap is good too, i would say use at least 3 inches. It is then that your heater is wet, or shedding too much heat for the moment.  

About your bypass, you don't need full pipe size. A four inch pipe can be sufficient. From your eight inch pipe or half barrel to the six inch vertical. With a flap in the 4" pipe.

I think i would also add 4' of six inch insulated pipe above your actual stack. I see the dormer thingy at the back, and keep thinking the chimney is rather low.

But before you do any of this, try to cover your barrels temporarily with batt insulation. To see how it reacts.  
2 days ago
Robbie, my nine incher"s bell goes to 550 600C°.

So, that's no spalling territory yet.
2 days ago
I would add. More pictures are needed. Of the bottom of the vertical chimney area, manifold etc.

Are you sure of your gaps? Really sure? Have you ever heard of ring projection?

New builds can be temperamental, even more with hot temps outside.
3 days ago
Robbie, with a black oven, i don't seem to reach more than 120 celcius at the bottom of the oven, at the first burn. 180/200 C° at the second burn, 300C° at the third. And my rocket is a 220mm batch. About 9 inches.

Go corbel and steel plate if you want. How thick are those steel plates? But on top of a bell, avoid anything which could crack and collapse. Like homemade clay bricks.  

What i was trying to say, in France, and Italy, they used to do this, reversed T bar, and hollow bricks laid on top, to hold the concrete above. Not for big spans thought.

I was thinking you could do this with firebricks, and with another layer on top, even of tiles. The only thing is not to mortar the two layers. But rather put a bed of sand, because of the heat expansion.
3 days ago
Gerry, you're overfuelling.

In your first video, with the flames shooting out, i can see the firebox crammed with bits of wood. I can see the pulsating, which to me means you don't have enough primary air. I'm quite high above sea level; and i had to increase the primary air. And i can tell you, i know your problem!

The solution has been to cut proper firewood.

I use larch now that i have my combine splitter machine, which might give me trouble again; But with oak that big and even a bit smaller, it was fine.

If you use softwood offcuts to light the stove, don't fill more than a third of the firebox, half absolute maximum. When they are at half ember stage, add bigger wood. If you want to burn those to get rid of waste, mix these with bigger wood. In my firebox, which is 33cm wide iirc, x 50cm high. I put 6 to 8 pieces of wood, about 10cm shorter than the firebox itself. Always leave a space at either end for the air to spread, and for the flames to develop. Always leave space above the wood. Don't burn too much fatwood.

I admit, i have an advantage to monitor my fire, with the window above the heat riser.


5 days ago
Ciao William James/

Where are you in northern Italy. Any close to the french border? I might not be that far.
6 days ago
explanation of a sharp orifice venturi.
1 week ago

Robbie Mendelssohn wrote:I say it would be a bit like a bell in that it has extra volume, being of larger diameter and the exhaust would still be moving slowly compared to when it narrows at the vertical chimney. I bought the tubes today so I hope I'm right...

I did read the post to the end as recommended and was thoroughly entertained, I like the science fair interlude.

Is that ytong block wrapping the firebox? I was considering using it until I dug deep and spend a staggering quantity on ceramic fibreboard.

Here's a question.... To make a slab for the top instead of steel, can I cast one like someone said here with clay and sand and arlite? I can't find a refractory slab around here.... And, why arlite? Isn't it insulating, rather than accumulating,,? Also,  I'd hate to see it collapse and crush my fibreboard riser :-p

Yep it is ytong. I had to support it, because it cracked. But so far, the core is holding. The flue elements behind, for the riser, not so well thought.

Clay perlite sand for the bell's top? This is a joke? Even if expensive, buy the proper stuff.  refractory of good quality. Or make a composite bell top. T bar steel. And firebricks, gas proofed by superwool and in a criss cross two layers.

By the way, your white oven won't heat enough.
1 week ago