Satamax Antone

Top of my lift a fortnight ago. It is a smidge better now, but barely!

I wished we had a dump of snow!

Thomas, try that one day!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Fresnel lenses are fun! And I'm keeping my eyes open for a big one to play with.

They don't offer an energy freebie though. They can concentrate solar energy, but it's exactly the same amount of energy that falls on a simple pane of glass of the same physical dimensions.

Douglas, i hadn't thought about this for a while. But i see two advantages now. Fresnel lenses can  increase the size of the window in front of the trombe wall.  

I mean, instead of having a huge low temp wall behind the window, it could help heat a smaller wall at a higher temperature. We're far from reaching the limit of heat storage of a big wall, with a normal window.  And a higher delta of temperature means that the efficiency is better.  Also, redirection of sun rays in the fresnel lens could increase the efficiency. The sun right, up or left of the window would barely heat the wall, with the lens redirecting the rays onto the wall, the system might function better.

Glenn Herbert wrote:The OP said on her facebook thread that there is 4' of chimney above the nearly flat roof. It is not tall, but would be adequate in otherwise good conditions.
She also said that the wood (a few sticks) burned fine for ten minutes, then finished burning, went to coals, and started reversing and smoking back.

I think there was insufficient fuel to heat up the system, and when the flames making the draft went away, the heat from the coals took the easy way straight up out of the feed.

That's quite à possibility.  What other cause i could see, with such a short chimney. Opening a door, where hot air escapes by the door as well as the chimney. The csa of the door being bigger, it might reverse the draft, with that stubby tube out of the roof.

Lack of mass or insulation in the chimney might make the system more prone to reverting too. If it can't sustain it's own draft, because the chimney is cooling too rapidly.

Gerry Parent wrote:For a fan forced draft in a pellet stove, 5” would work just fine. For a passive draft RMH, no way. This manifold area needs to be quite large as it is the transition area where the exhaust gasses are switching directions. Too much friction in this area will definitely slow or even stall the stove.
A 10” (or 8” min) diameter pipe outlet reduced down to your 6” would work much better.

Gerry, i'm sorry to contradict you. But, in this case, there is plenty of space between heat riser and wall of the barrel. It is narrow, but should function.

What i see,

https://permies.com/t/171374/a/163438/9EA5294B-727C-4CCC-899F-8989D7B95A4D.jpeg


In  this pic, a short stubby chimney on the right, with smoke coming out.

That chimney is uninsulated and way too short.

Two more meters of insulated chimney would be better.

Thanks a lot Thomas and Fox.


Well, i want to use it as a "chassis" for the bricks. I want the mass outside, not inside. The one i have is a smidge more recent than the one on the pic. It sure would be good to have a cleanout. But i would really like to cover the whole thing with bricks.

Flattening the louvres, and brazing these. I don't have a tig or mig. Just modern stick inverter. And an oxy acetylene torch. IIRC the door has a metal ledge to rest on. But i just thought, i could make a brick wall behind the door. To support the top, and leave a space at one end of the wall, for the cleanout.

The top could also be dry stacked bricks, if i made a frame of angle iron of the right dimension,  tacked to the locker's metal.

I quite like Orange's bench, over at donkey's



https://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/2366/project-170mm-7inches-ceramic-cooker?page=7

Hi everybody.

After procrastinating for a while on the bench modification on my stove.

I have found an old vintage locker of my liking.

I want to use it horizontally like on the picture. On slabs of air entrained concrete, and covered with bricks.

But having only one brain, i quite like to have ideas other than mine.

How would you close the louvers, and airtight the door?

What would you do for a cleanout?

Thomas? Since you like your metalworking.

Glenn Herbert wrote:You definitely want to be burning as hot as possible, and generally that means fast. A batch box is designed to burn at a steady rate while combusting as completely as possible; Peter van den Berg's tests have generally run for around an hour for a 6" unit.

I don't think I would extend the exhaust duct any farther into the bench cavity. Flow will be sedate enough at that distance from the core that I think you will get good stratification in the bell and maximum heat extraction without more duct.

Well, looking at how Fraser Stewart has done it.

https://permies.com/t/40/149538/Tips-Cob-vertical-bell-barrel#1341318

I think to gain another 6" of stratification,  that idea is the right one. And it might solve some of the issue, since the end of the slit will be closer to the vertical chimney, Than the actual opening.

Pete, if you have access.

Block the end of that pipe in the corner of the bench.

And cut a slit on the bottom.   Of something like 70x4 cm.  Like in the pictures in the thread above.

That's better than the pipe's end in the corner imho.  Which gives less stratification, and may be more friction.

Back to your burning problem.  Can you tell me if you have water/sap boiling off at the door end of the sticks ?

How have you tested for 20% moisture content?

I wonder if your moisture content is not far higher. I have had problems in the past burning my big batch rocket. But with wood wet to the touch, when you split it.

That's good then. Not too cold in that room in the morning, then?

The blackview BV9800 pro has a max limit at 400C°