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Abe Coley

pollinator
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since Nov 13, 2010
Missoula, MT
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Recent posts by Abe Coley

I've grown them from seed. Not too difficult, although you do need to cold stratify them in the fridge for like 4 months (in a moist paper towel in a ziplock bag).

Sheffields has a ton of different species, maybe you can find seeds of one of the native ones local to your area: https://sheffields.com/seeds-search/s_genus/Crataegus/characteristics_sum_type/1
21 hours ago

r ranson wrote:Or is there anything (I might have on hand) that would work better at penetrating the rust?  



The non-toxic method of breaking loose rusty parts is the "heat it and beat it" method. Basically you torch the part, causing the metal to expand as it heats and contract as it cools, thereby breaking loose the frozen parts. Then you beat on it with your tool of choice.

As for alternatives to WD-40, PB Blaster works amazingly well for breaking apart rusted parts, but I think it has lead in it in addition to all the other toxic ingredients. I've also heard Kroil works quite well but I've never used it.

2 days ago
If the soil can be dug, I think the gold standard is dig and tamp. Driven posts (steel t-posts, galvanized pipe, round wood posts, etc)  also work pretty well. In either case the posts can be easily yanked out with a hi-lift jack and a few wraps of chain around the post.

If the soil is sand, fine gravel, or some other kind of soil that doesn't pack together no matter how much you tamp it, road base mix (clay/gravel) can be tamped to almost rock hardness and it works beautifully.

Wood posts set in concrete rot faster than posts set in soil, because the wood shrinks away from the concrete slightly and the capillary action of water keeps that small gap continuously wet. I've seen it happen over and over and over, where some well meaning person sinks some pressure treated posts in concrete, and they rot off in less than ten years. Given the prevalence of the practice, I think it's a dirty little trade secret of our local fence contractors. If I had a nickel for every time somebody hired me to replace rotten posts set in concrete by one of our top local fence contractors, I'd have about 35 cents.

Styrocrete takes all the downsides of concrete post setting, and adds to it the absurdity of putting friable plastic bits into the soil. It's like, "how could we take the worst option and make it even worse?" Truly it is worth of derision.

Greg Judy on his youtube channel has been using large diameter (1 inch plus) fiberglass posts driven into the ground, and they look pretty skookum.

And finally, in places where there is minimal depth to bedrock, rock jacks work great. They've been covered here pretty extensively in the threads about wheaton labs.


2 days ago

Mike Haasl wrote:I sure hope they have the seeds in hand and aren't counting on Badgersett to deliver them...



I recently watched a presentation by the Upper Midwest Hazelnut Development Initiative, and they mentioned EFN or one of their suppliers worked out a deal to access the Badgersett plantings to harvest seed nuts from the best specimens. Also mentioned that the guy who ran Badgersett has had some serious health issues, has fallen on hard times, etc.
My current list of native plants in my garden includes:

- Silver Buffaloberry
- Comfrey
- Currants
- Flax
- Oregon Grape
- Fireweed
- Hollyhock
- Iris
- Stinging Nettle
- White Sage
- Saskatoon
- Yarrow
- Utah Honeysuckle

...according to a quick perusal of http://montana.plant-life.org/
3 days ago
The last part I forgot is the idler sprocket, which is a small sprocket with a bearing inside it. It is only used to hold the chain out to the side over the long stretch where the chain goes from the top sprocket to the bottom sprocket.
5 days ago
In the above post, the first pic shows the sleeve through the main beam. The sleeve gets loaded up with grease when you insert the sprocket.

The next pic shows the sprocket/shaft and the retaining ring/pin. The sprocket and shaft are welded together. I could have skipped the retaining ring and put the pin through just the shaft, but I decided to use a ring so as to spread out the wear, so that the pin isn't wearing directly against the main sleeve. The retaining ring is made from a 1" piece of the main sleeve material in the pic above.

The next pic shows the inside of the sprocket shaft, which has two small pieces of pipe welded inside. The fence wires go through the small pieces of pipe, which hold the wires when the sprockets turn and keep the wires spread apart for inserting the sticks.

The next pic shows the crank handle and sprocket. They are welded together, and they slip over the crank axle shown two pics below.

The next pic shows the T sleeve welded onto the end of the tensioning rod.

The next pic shows the tensioning rod inserted into the tensioner beam, with the crank axle inserted through (the crank handle/sprocket goes onto the axle).

The last pic shows the open end of the tensioner beam.

I purchased the sprockets and chain from https://www.nitrochain.com/
5 days ago
Ok here are some detail pics of tensioner and sprocket assemblies.
5 days ago

Johan Rytters wrote: Would it be possible to get some more close up photos of the contruction?



No problem Johan. I can take some pictures of how the gears go thru the main frame, and the tension adjuster in the handle. Are there any other specific parts or views you'd like a picture of?
6 days ago