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Ellendra Nauriel

pollinator
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since Aug 04, 2019
South-central Wisconsin
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Recent posts by Ellendra Nauriel

In old stone castles, they would hang tapestries all over the walls in order to insulate. Would that be an option? You could use quilts or blankets, hanging them like curtains but without the window.

As for wood heat, I'm a big fan of the kind that use twigs. That way you can cut your firewood with pruning shears instead of a chainsaw. These also work well with alternatives like corn cobs. I have a bad back and a messed-up shoulder, so splitting and hauling normal firewood just isn't going to happen.

With enough thermal mass, you can make the heat last a long time. If you can't modify the woodstove itself, try stacking bricks or cinder blocks or something around it to help soak up the heat.
19 hours ago
I keep hoping that, as 3D printers increase in quality and decrease in price, it will someday be possible to just print up the missing parts, no matter what material they're made from.

For plastic parts, the files for printing them might already be online.
1 day ago

Mike Haasl wrote:I don't use lights but if I did, I'd have them come on early and turn off before dusk so that the birds can find their way to the roost without the sun setting in an instant on them.




^^^This.

I haven't used lights in the past, but I'm going to be adding them soon. Possibly even later today if I can find where I put everything. But, I do know that my birds freak out if the lights suddenly turn off, so my timer will be set so they get an early dawn and a natural dusk.

Supply shortages around here are getting annoying, so I'd rather not have to depend on store eggs if I can avoid it.
4 days ago

Trace Oswald wrote:

Nancy Reading wrote:I'm really glad you started this topic Andy.
I've had a quick look and can't find much information about how people go about innoculating their biochar. I think my soil (compacted acidic silty loam constantly rain washed) could really benefit from biochar, but how to go about creating that nutrient rich starting point is a bit of a mystery. I have to admit, i was going to just mix it in some compost and hope magic happens! Hopefully some people with experience of actually using it can contribute some more information.



That's exactly how I do it.  I mix it in as I'm making my compost, and let it happen naturally.  Do remember that when you make compost, your greens and browns will shrink a great deal, and your charcoal won't, so you can mix in less charcoal than you might think to get a 10% or whatever ratio in the end product.  I also mix charcoal in with my deep litter in my chicken coop and hoop house.  It helps tremendously with absorbing smells and moisture, and when I remove it in a year or so, it gets added to my garden that way.




The chicken coop method is my go-to as well. It eliminates the stink and helps the soil. What's not to love?

If I ever get to where I can make large amounts, I'll probably keep it simple by adding the charcoal directly where I'll be planting beans. Legumes don't seem to mind the nutrient drawn-down, and by the time I plant something different a year or two later, the char will have inoculated itself.
4 days ago

C. Letellier wrote:


Now one other catch on this is that you can warm the walls of the basement up nicely but making a real change in floor temperature is nearly impossible.  I had counted on being able to warm both the walls and floor up to be my  thermal "battery".  The walls warm up nicely as expected.  But even having gotten my intake down to a strip 1 inch high and 12 feet long I can't get the floor to change temperature much.   1 inch off the floor the temperature was 76 degrees but put the sensor down on the floor and it was 60 degrees this fall even after weeks of the basement climbing into the mid 70's every day for weeks.  After a bunch of study I see it is a combination of stratification and boundary layer protecting it.  Either I need to put heat under the floor or I need to physically scrub the air flow across it to see real change.



You could do both by building a raised platform that covers the entire room like a second floor, but is only an inch or two tall. Make it so the hollow spaces channel the air underneath, acting as an extension of the system.
4 days ago
If you decide to plant fruit/nut trees on the steep part, I recommend adding some kind of anchoring points for ladders and/or scaffolding. Because at some point, you're going to want to pick from the branches that are hardest to reach, and an un-anchored ladder on a steep slope is just asking for trouble!
5 days ago

Derek Dendro wrote:  



So when you see a flier, with a picture of a tree, in a public place, like a farmers market, that says on a certain date there will be a fruit tree planting party at a local farm, you are invited to join, bring a potluck, musical instrument, or whatever you want to contribute.

Your first thoughts are, am I allowed to leave freely? Am I going to be raped or murdered? Is there good cell phone reception and road access?

Ok.... we will keep that in mind when creating our fliers and advertisements..





Don't show a picture of a tree. Or at least, not just a tree. Show a picture of a woman, old enough to have wrinkles but not so old she looks like she's crumbling, and have her smiling next to a flowering fruit tree. Or leaning on a spade beside a freshly-planted tree.

Women, generally speaking, tend to be drawn to other women. And a smiling matriarchal figure appeals to that primitive, emotional part of the brain, and makes people of all ages and genders feel safe.

(It would be best if the woman in the photo is also one of the instructors/mentors at the event.)

George Yacus wrote:



By the way, can anyone out there in permie land recommend a better work glove?  I learned the past week that gloves are the most important tool for treecycling Christmas trees into ornaments for many reasons:

1)They prevented me from getting scratched up by the branches when hauling the tree or lopping up boughs.
2)They kept my hands warm and dexterous in the cold.
3)They prevented blisters when using the loppers, pruning shears, and saw.
4)They provided extra blade safety when carving with the hatchet or sawing.
5)They cushioned the palm of my hand when using the hatchet and the gimlets.  
6)They helped prevent burning my hands when burndoodling (which is my less-skilled version of pyrography.)



I'm fond of the Duluth Trading Company "Fence Mender's" gloves, myself. The combination of leather and kevlar has saved my hands many times!
1 week ago
art

Trace Oswald wrote:


The windows have never been used for anything.  I got them from a glass company.  They can't cut tempered and apparently it isn't cost effective for them to do anything with them, so they give them away.  I could have gotten truckloads of them, in any thickness up to about an inch, in pretty much any dimension.




Can I ask where this company is located?
1 week ago