Patrick Freeburger

For the Hot (positive) Wires - I was planning to use a plastic insulator, but for the negative (ground) wires - I was going to skip the insulator and wire it directly to the galvanized pipe so it would act as an additional group rod.  I think this would work without leaking current on wet wood when it is raining...

Everyone - I had some old PT 2x4s so I ripped them in half and drilled holes in them (8 wires first 3 at 6" spacing, then 5 @ 8" spacing).  Then, I hammered an insulator in them.  My U-bolt connectors are too small (so they are backwards).  I was debating keeping it 4' off the ground to minimize termite damage, but this should be OK.  Quick question - Wires (from bottom) 3,5,7 will be negative.  Do they still need the insulator or can they just go through the hole?  Thanks.

Eliot, I have a bunch of these - I could make a 4' tall 1"x 2" with the electrical connectors at the right heights on my workbench and then go out and strap them on the poles.

Guys, I like the intertube idea too.  I wonder if my local bike shop has some scrap tubes  they will give me.

I like the hose clamp idea and the bicycle tire may work - I'm worried it would wear out over time.  I found these (in China) which I think is what I am looking for.  What I have now is just what my local Tractor Supply has available, not much of a selection...Thanks everyone, please keep the ideas flowing.

I'm trying to attach electric line to a galvanized pipe post, but having trouble.  I'm afraid the porcelain donut will slip and I can't make it tighter without breaking the attaching wire. Drilling a hole It's a pain in the butt and screwing in a connector doesn't seem to work well without cutting a thread into the pipe?  Suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Is there such a thing as a 'branch crusher' - Not a chipper or shredder.  I know big logging operations have giant tree trunk de-limbers, but not that either.  I want to take branches and shrubs and make a compact, linear limb that I can use to build my swales on contour.  Ideally, something that is small enough to be carried or dragged around.  Any ideas?  Maybe it could wrap them in twine, but I don't know that that is needed, if the side limbs are crushed enough.  I feel like this should exist - I'm not the only person crazy enough to need this, am I?

Drew, phase 1 of a dozen is 1000' linear feet of fence = 75 - 125 posts.  I also value my time, back, and sanity.  As I get further from my house my current electric air compressor would be a challenge.  Not sure how many hundreds of feet of extension cord and/or air hose is practical.

Has anyone used both?  I need to build a fence in very rocky ground, but it is hard to get a straight comparison.
For pneumatic (air) I was looking at the man saver - https://www.rohrermfg.com/post-drivers/
For gas powered I was looking at something like the Titan https://www.titanpostdrivers.com/pgd2000.html or Rhino https://rhinotool.com/product/ranch-pro/
This will be hand carried in so hydraulic is not an option.

How much of a pain is dragging around a compressor vs having another engine to maintain?

Thanks,
Patrick

Talking to people and surfing the internet - and the permies forum of course :-)

Context for me
- steep terrain, close to bedrock - no option to use tractor or large equipment
- Needs to hold in goats and dogs, and plan for cows and maybe sheep
- Ideally it would hold chickens as well.
- Mountain lions are our biggest predator followed by coyotes, bobcats
- Not solving for cheapest option, but one that will look good and have minimum maintenance for a long time.
- I will probably add paddocks as time and money allow
- My perimeter is too steep and unwieldy to fence


High tensile galvanized electric fence - such as https://timelessfencesystem.com/ where it uses a PVC post
- it looks clean and relatively simple to install.

woven fence with a hot top wire such as https://www.redbrand.com/sheep-goat-fence/
- this looks a lot more expensive to install, but becomes a better physical barrier.

For me, I think the best bang for the buck is the Timeless Fence.  It will do what I need it to do and will be much cheaper to install than woven wire.  Has anyone use it or something similar?  What are your thoughts on it?


Thanks,
Patrick

C.,
Did you ever try this?  Concrete can be alkaline, but fairly inert, just don't add fly ash which usually contains heavy metals.


These people make molds and claim better pest resistance and production due to better thermals than a wooden box.
https://www.africanfarming.com/concrete-beehives-smallholder/
http://www.beegin.co.za/

Curious what type of hive you were thinking of.