John Indaburgh

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since Dec 09, 2017
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Recent posts by John Indaburgh

You're supposed to wash them! Haahaha
I love beets!
3 days ago
Before you spend a lot of money and time do some testing:
Find a metal building that you can get into. Check your bars outside and then go into the building and recheck your bars. I'm guessing you won't see much, if any, difference. Check your bars near a wood lot and then get between it and your tower. If you're in the middle of the wood lot it won't make much of a difference where the tower is. A lot of the large garage and inexpensive manufacturing facilities are built of metal. The old military quonset huts were fairly thick galvanized steel and didn't do much at blocking radio signals.
An RG8 coaxial cable used to connect a radio transmitter to an antenna looses 3db every 100 foot of cable. This means that it looses half the power every 100 feet. To imagine what this does in air look at a 70 watt light bulb at a distance. At a mile you won't get much light other than looking directly at the light. A cell tower transmits 75 watts of power at the antenna. At 100 feet half that power is lost in a coax cable much much more thru air.
If you want to pursue this further even after you see the results of your tests, I'd suggest you check with and just plant a lot of seeds of a fast growing evergreen tree.
3 weeks ago
Contact Eric Vaccarello of Land Clearing Specialists Inc. They are from, I believe Carnegie PA. The phone is (724) 695-8733. I knew the father, Joe, who started the business.
They have equipment like a Hydro Axe that can  mow a pile of brush, up to about 4 inch diameter in seconds. They have equipment that will go up to a 20" tree, grab it, saw it off at the bottom and lay it on the ground. They have equipment that can pick them up with the chipper and shove them thru and blow them into an 18 wheeler tractor.
I watched them clear a subdivision and asked about the cost. It was so cheap that I was horrified that I'd spent so many years cutting up endless crab apples and converting them to potash. I thought the price was really inexpensive,. That was just for using the hydro axe on brush. He would raise the mower dock above a tree 4 inches in diameter and lower in on the tree and it was gone in seconds.
Call them, get an estimate.
1 month ago
I agree with Skandi. Pick an area 10'x12' or 4'x8' or 2'x12' and start digging. I would first cover the area I planned to dig with the leafs you have or the grass you mow to get the clippings. If you have a bagging mower use that and empty the bagger on the area you picked out. If you don't have a bagger mow an area in a circle or a racetrack pattern. Keep pushing the clippings toward the middle as you mow. Once you have the clippings in the middle rake them up and dump them in your new garden space and start digging. You could rake them with your hands if you don't have a rake. If your clay is dry it'll be hard as a rock, so it'll be worth your while to water the spot or wait for a good rain.

I mark off my area with sticks or pipes that I push or hammer into the ground. Then I eyeball a line and dig a straight line with the spade. I'll dig a line on 3 sides. Then I'll reverse my position and start the digging. Don't take off too big a bite, maybe two inches on the first bite. Then flip it over trying to get the sod side down. I work across, and then work my way back. After I dig at least 6 inches I try when I flip over the clod to lay it on top off the previous digging with the green side facing me. On my next pass when I dig out a new shovel full the clod will slide into the trench  sod side down.
You don't have to dig up the whole patch at once. You can dig up some and plant seeds the same day.

I would get some leaf crops, lettuce and or spinach, radishes, onions from sets, and peas in the ground first. Peas are tall so should be on the north of your plot. These crops can take cold weather and do well grown in the spring.

Another suggestion I want to make is to consider manure. It's always available, somewhere, especially this time of year. You can grow anything in it and it will grow wonderful crops. However I wouldn't grow leafy or root crops in it when it's fresh; so I suggested you use the leafs and clippings first to get those early crops into your garden and growing. To find manure google "horse boarding"and add your community name in the search. You'll find somewhere even in NY city. I have rented a truck and I have hauled some on top of my car. I have a roof rack and tied plastic bag fulls down. This stuff is heavy so maybe you don't want the bags full. While your looking for the right horse facility gauge how easy it is to get out of and the quality of the material. The difference will be age and what was used for bedding. You want it black and without wood chips.  Brown horse manure is fresh and grey manure means it's composting. Black manure is fully composted and is what you want to add to your garden. Two inches of manure over the entire garden is a good start, four inches is too much.

You want the leaves, clippings and or manure to loosen up your soil, make it easy to work and for your plants roots to grow in. They will also add some nitrogen and other nutrients which will make your crops healthy. If you use the manure don't buy any fertilizer you won't need it! Have a great growing season.
How big a green house are you thinking of. You say it's a market greenhouse so I assume it's not 8x10'.

I would consider putting in a source of some serious heat, like a wood stove with fans to move the air, prevent overheating one end. Another idea is one that was used here where it's much warmer. Fellow spent the year going from garage to garage collecting used motor oil. Could also use used fryer oil. He then used that in an oil furnace in his greenhouses.
4 months ago
Don't have greenhouse experience. I was in Timmins many decades ago. It was late June and snowing in the afternoon.
I just wanted to suggest that you keep your mind open to the possibility of using spring water to keep the greenhouse warmer. Spring water at 55° is warmer than even that day in June that I just spoke of. On the other hand that same water would be welcome on a day like I saw near White River when it was 103° for 3 days in early June.
4 months ago
Baldwin apples are VERY slow to start producing. I believe it's Fedco who relates the story that in the days when Baldwin ruled Maine, new Baldwin orchards were planted with Wagener trees planted between Baldwins. The Wageners produce very quickly, and were removed when the Baldwins came in. If I remember Baldwins may take up to 10 years to start producing. Another precocious tree, I got mine from Fedco as a scion, is the Redfield. The spring after I grafted and planted it, it flowered. The plant was a whip about 2 feet high with a nice red flower.

Were I planting dwarf apple trees I would plant them on 6 feet or so centers. The farther north you are in Maine the closer you can plant. Fedco recommends upsizing one size. A dwarf to a semi dwarf A semi-dwarf to a semi full. Another thing, I'd suggest you do is graft yourself so that you can graft your selected variety to a scion off a rootstock of the size you select, and then graft that pair to your actual rootstock. If your apples are on M-111 or Antonovka rootstock your roots will be larger, not require staking and the trees will last longer. This is called interstem grafting or multiworking.

If you're afraid to try grafting, take a cutting you cut when trimming a tree, and graft it to a different variety. Or graft it back on the same tree. Mark what you grafted so that you can follow the branch as it grows.

6 months ago
If my point is correct then we could examine the parents of an apple on the list for the trait, and we can look at the offspring of a listed variety to see if the attribute carries to its siblings.
1 year ago
Supposing you have an orchard, or planning one. And you want to add to your nursery from seed from your orchards trees. Wouldn't it be great to cut down on the time it takes to get your first fruit from the seedlings you grow. If in your orchard you plant some trees that are known to be precocious then their offspring will also be precocious. Look at the image below as evidence of what I say. That image is from a study a 100 years or so ago called A study of the results of Crossing Varieties of Apples by Clarence C. Vincent for UMass.

It becomes obvious looking at that image that you can produce fruit faster growing apples from seed than from seedlings that you have to pay for. This is probably exaggerated because the apples shown in the image are examples where both parents are precocious. The important point to get from the study is that precociousness is an inheritable trait.

So what apples are precocious, here's a list:

 Ben Davis  



 Cox's Orange Pippin


 Golden Delicious

 Grimes Golden, same apple as Golden Delicious??






 Yellow Delicious (Everfresh)


So my suggestion is that you plant a precocious apple thru out your orchard. But how do you know which seeds will have the trait. Well I'd guess that if you harvested seed from the precocious tree that they will have that attribute. And I'd also say that if your precocious tree was also a delicious apple you'd get some very good,early bearing apples.  Let's say you have a Cox's Orange Pippin in your nursery. Some say this is the best tasting apple there is, and it's an early bearer. If you plant seed from apples from that tree I'd guess you're going to get better apples from a cross between a cider apple and that crab apple next door.
1 year ago