kees ijpelaar

Thanks


Needs to beause of the cold here is present, and coming week as boracast is right it can go
as low as -14 degree.

nice pictures though.

Thekla McDaniels wrote:Hi Kees, so sorry you are having so many frustrations.  It’s been a year now that you’ve been working on getting a rocket stove hasn’t it?

There’s so much that goes into a wood stove, and so much more for a rocket stove.

I wonder if you want to look into buying plans for a riser-less rocket stove from Matt Walker.  He has several designs.

https://walkerstoves.com/shop/

When I finally get the support built, I plan to use one of Matt’s plans inside my house.  I don’t think I could live with the frustration you have endured.  Matt’s planns tell you brick by brick exactly how to build, and I think he has a good track record and possibly a good guarantee.

The rocket stove is complex, and you started with complex modifications.  

As hard as you have worked, I really hope you finally get a nice rockety rocket! And SOON. Good luck!

Ap people here I wish a happy new year and at least more peace in the world.


Concerns the rocket, I have not worked every day on it and I have also did not take a year or so, it starts with ideas but had
also other hobby,s to do and I drown very easy in them, so do stall things.

I have done the rocket and it does well, getting almost 500 degrees on the top in cold outside tst who is very good.

I did make the burn tunnen little smaller as the rizer, because rizer is round and tunnel is square it was bigger, and
as people say that is no problem, it is poberly is, as I did see on the book, the tunnel there is also little smaller, even with
same dimensions for rizer and tunnel.



I can use it now, these are very nice for Oekraïne, easy to make laughing at the russians who try to set them in the cold.

Have nice days, Here it is white of the snow. And yes almost forget, what do I use to prevent rust on top? is there some
stuff for it like in Dutch kachelpoets, what is a tube with black stove fat or what it is called in englisch.

Benjamin Dinkel wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:
Wel I do now now why it does not work well, the cros sectional space in tunnel is 225 cm3  and the rizer
is 176 cm3.

Reason, the riser is round, the tunnel and output is square.

Hi Kees. That shouldn’t be a problem. For a fluid the corners don’t really count. So 15cm diameter round is almost the same as 15x15cm square. Doesn’t really make sense at first, but it’s the case. There’s no flow in the corners due to friction.

And I’m with Scott. It would be good if you gave us a reminder of what you’re trying to achieve and in what step you are.

The thread started as a batch box for hot water. Now it’s a j tube cottage rocket that’s outside?

Well what I discover is that the rizer is 68 cm and the burn tunnel is 48 cm. did make the rizer longer but is close to top.

I go make the burn tunnel  shorter so it match with the rizer later, so also the fire get into the rizer and not in the tunnel like now happens.


The book roacket mass heaters do state that the tunnel is the smallest part, also with square or round rizers.

C is the burntunnel in the book see attachment need smaller then the rest.

I go just test all, if nabure is quite but I have trouble with her who is heavy anti woodfires.

Lttle confusion here I see, yes it is cm2 a typo.

The letters K,G etc are from the book rocket mass hearts III, and I have read
some more about the rockets.

The burntunnel needs to be the tightest part, because the rizer is round and the tunnel is square I did make a mistake
who let the tunnel bigger.

I have now make it little smaller as the rizer and it give a better result, now I see flames in the rizer.

Other part I did not right is the burntunnel length, I have not 1/2 lengts, I miss 10 cm, but this is because it is a different
beast an less space in barrel, what I can do is shorten the tunnel, because also in the book the dimensions needs
to fit calculations, and the burntunnel is 48 cm and the rizer is close to 90 cm, I have a gap on top 6 cm.  

I have 6 inch, but did thought it has then all a kind of connection
but I can optimize the burntunnel length and rizer, as long as the tunnel is the smallest part of the system.

Oke, I can shorten the tunnel so it match the rizer of 90 cm, but can als shorten it to 68 cm, the fire will then go deeper
into the rizer and heating much faster, this way I can optimize it as is done in the book, there she also play with the
burntunnel length and rizer length to optimize burning.

regards

Cristobal Cristo wrote:I second Fox - location matters. If I build a test rocket (or other type) firebox, dry stacked, with no chimney, no insulation, it burns beautifully in dry weather and with dry wood.
When firing in winter humid environment with dry wood, but moistened with dew or fog it may smoke initially or in your case for a longer period.

Thanks for clarification, Yes it is here quite moisterious, like mist.

But today there was sun, however it is not quite dry weather. I did not tought about that. But do tomorrow correct the burntunnel because this is
very important and I have a way to big one because i did forget to incude the round or squares in calculations.

I have a shimney now, see the movie in previous post.

HI James andBenjamin.

Thanks very much for your help

In Netherlands it is 10 degrees, we have a very mild winter.

I have pick a piece of tekst here from a book rocket mass heaters II

C is the cross-sectional area of the horizontal
Burn Tunnel, normally made of brick, in which
most of the burning happens. A single common
brick on edge is about 4 inches high and 2¼" thick
and firebrick is about 4½" x 2½", so arrange bricks
flat or on edge to make up the required height.
C should be the tightest part of the “intestinal”
system. The size of the cross-sectional areas of
all parts of the stove’s internal ducts should never
decrease below that of C. In other words, the crosssectional areas of F, G, H, J, and k should all be
greater than that of C.


Wel I do now now why it does not work well, the cros sectional space in tunnel is 225 cm3  and the rizer
is 176 cm3.

Reason, the riser is round, the tunnel and output is square.

I need to put a layer in, like 5 cm (I have only 5.5) and then the tunnel drops lower then the rizer.

I bet that this is the problem.

here a movie of the burn, it does get better in time but that is mucho to long. there are more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziO7bOsGo-A

Oke thanks.


I go try later a new test, using a slot into uit like the batch rocket does, maybe that cause enough turbulence for better burn.

as when using it now it does suck a lot of air in, and this air is cold because I test outdoors.

The rocket heater does not well, I have look in the rizer and see flames but it does nog come out afterburning.

It smells and smokes, so I smell also, that is not rockety.

Reason is I think the fire bricks used, these are the non insolated versions and i have only isolate the rizer.

Maybe a batchrocket in such a oilbarrel is better, or make a split into the rizer entree as is with the batchrocket
is a interesting tryout, heat can go higher that way and there is not such a dramatically draw.

Can someone advice me, I need to know if this is the stuff I need for insolated core.

I have bought a bag with brown balls in it, bigger and smaller, it is for plants.

I do not now if there are also other ones, these balls in the bag are very low
weight.

I have the brown ones, what is clay, So perlite is the white stuff

Hi all


Did test again after isolate the vloor of the core, it  do make a difference what means I have a to cold
place for the fire to go fully.

I need to make a core with clay, and the potting stuff, for plants so it is isolated.

I had the idea to isolate the core, because I have used 3 cm thick stones a layer of ceramic whool is
maybe a solution?  So I can let the stove in one piece.

see here. This man did use thick stones and have isolated it, with rockwool and ceramic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiHpE0h9GiQ

https://youtu.be/s4GMV1T4l9E