William Schlegel

pollinator
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since Jan 23, 2017
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forest garden trees
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Recent posts by William Schlegel

I watered the control, the transplant patch and a few other things like squash. Then it rained nicely this morning.

Just finished another round of transferring pollen sans emasculation. Put some "pollen mix" tags on.
Solanum arcanum has a few blooms. One accession seems inserted. The other only modestly exserted.

Spread some pollen around the transplant patch amongst the exserteds. Put some arcanum pollen on some peruvianum stigmas. Then collected some hab x pollen without wiping off the arcanum pollen and spread it to other hab x plants and a few Big Hill and one Big Hill x plant. Added a little Big Hill Pollen to the mix and applied it to some exserted pimp types. None of the deliberate crosses I made on prior weeks seemed to take. I think they got emasculated young enough but should have had more pollen applied over a couple days. So this morning I just didn't emasculate as the exserteds take up pollen pretty well.

In the transplant garden on a really old plant from my overwintering experiment, there is one ripe pimpinillifolium.

Rototilled a little and started soaker hoses on garden sectors including the transplant patch. Note: it's the 12th of July and this will be the first watering. Also on the single row of the direct seeded field that will be the watered control.

In the direct seeded field, the best soils are becoming really obvious. Eight years ago in 2011 I spread two piles of sand and then grew squash. The pile bases still have perhaps too much sand. But in between the two piles got perhaps the perfect amount and now it's mixed in nicely. That is where the tomatoes are biggest. They've exceeded the size of the more crowded transplant tomatoes. Better soils probably means in part better tilth, better infiltration, and greater water holding capacity. This soil as mapped recall from an earlier post only can store 5.5 inches. So the best soils modified by sand addition probably hold more water now. My soil seems to loose water in the early spring that flows through the soil to a vernal pool. This suggests to me that techniques like sand addition, hugelkulture, broadforking, and deep double digging may have a big impact.
Didn't spend as much time in the garden as I would have liked this weekend. Rototilled some this morning but didnt hoe. Only got two intentional crosses attempted. Direct seeded plants are much bigger. Especially the patches I weeded first and ones in the best soil. Lots of flowers already on those.

Transplant patch has interesting plants. I think some Solanum arcanum will be blooming next weekend. Took a picture of one plant I thought earlier might be a three species hybrid betweem escuelentum, penellii, and habrochaites. It's blooming. In the picture the soil texture around it has big chunks. That was a side effect of using the Meadow Creature broadfork. My old sand mulch slid down between peds of clay soil as I broadforked. This resulted in clay chunks on the surface. However I am very curious to see what the infiltration is like on the beds when I start watering them.

Some have tomatoes already in the transplant patch.
Weeded a bit more in the transplant tomato garden. I have the water on now, had to replace a controller on the well. So will probably commence watering it in July as per usual. Laid out and tested the soaker hoses today.

Checked on the direct seeded field. It looks pretty good but weeds are popping back up. Will need to work on it more next weekend. I think the far West row will be my watered control on it. It's downslope, so any extra water will go to the squashes.

It does occur to me that my system of transplanting and not watering till July seems to work fairly well. I suppose I could do transplanted dry farmed tomatoes and have ripe tomatoes a month earlier. For 700 row feet would just need 140 plants spaced every five feet. Might be an idea for next year.
Did a little rototilling to smooth out last weekend's hoeing. Rained yesterday.
Moschata plants are naturally a little smaller than Maxima plants.

I've grown Lofthouse moschata from both Resilient Seeds and directly from Joseph.

This year I am growing a mix of: Lofthouse moshata from my own saved seeds, a moschata cross from a friend in California, a moschata hybrid from territorial, and a moschata from native seed search. No matter the source the following are true: the individual seeds tend to be smaller, the cotyledens are smaller, and the plants start out a little smaller. On the plus side they do seem to do better with less water whereas maxima seems to need a little more.
Found the first direct seeded flower today June 28 Probably a Sweet Cherriette.

Over in my transplant field I made some intentional crosses mostly using Big Hill as either pollen or mother. Though one mother was a Big Hill cross F2 with good exsertion. Big Hill is a joy to work with when available as it has great big stigmas.
I'm sure that Jim's class is interesting and potentially valuable (to a market gardener perhaps). However I see no reason why I or you could not try some of his methodology based on the freely available videos explaining his methods. It's basically a modification of the Ruth Stout method. So read Ruth's books, buy a scythe, read "The Scythe Book". Start laying down mulch, and see how it goes. Incidentally Ruth Stout had sandy soil and a frost pocket and it may have made her method work better: sand = less slugs. There are several other modifications of the Ruth Stout Method out there including Lasagna Gardening, Straw Bale Gardening, and the Back to Eden method of wood chip gardening. Research those as well: free online websites and videos, libraries, and cheap used books are available. If you don't want to scythe you might be able to get a lawnmower- perhaps even an electric, with a bagger and use grass clippings (I'm considering this). You may also find cheap or free other sources of organic mulch and use those instead.
1 month ago
On a landrace the fruits of different plants will be different. However, the fruits of the same plant will be the same.

Also Joseph talks in some of his threads about taking off a small piece of skin say on the exact fruit you want to save for seed and taste testing it.
1 month ago