Eliot Mason

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since Nov 17, 2016
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dog bike woodworking
Beavercreek, OR
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Recent posts by Eliot Mason

D Nikolls wrote:
My second-hand understanding is that beavers generally *will* dam the pipe inlet, even though it should be fully underwater and those not making much noise. The supposed way around this is many small slits in the sides of the pipe upstream of the dam, and closing off the upstream end of the pipe..



My second-hand understanding is that the pipe is protected by a large box (hence the "baffle" in the name).  Apparently the beaver is very specific about placing sticks where they can hear the water.  If the water noise is inside a 2'x2' box then its like it doesn't exist (adding doulbe-entendre to "baffle"). If a creek flows in a forest, but a beaver isn't there to hear it, does it make any noise?
1 day ago
I WISH I had Beavers.  But that's because I can't  (legally) make a pond without them...

Lorinne is right on the Beaver Baffle thing.  There are different designs, but the key is that it allows the beaver to fulfill their instinctual drive to dam flowing water yet subverts their goal by sneakily moving the water past their dam.  Beaver comes, builds dam ... and goes away to tackle some other beaver-perceived problem.

And yes, as George suggests the new beaver dam might achieve a new normal.  There is the possibility that the dam will help filter the water so your pond gets less debris etc.

For a large-picture understanding of Beavers and their role in ecology, I love Eager.  Here it is at Powell's
1 day ago
The negative wire is nothing more than a ground wire.  Its only there so that in the dry season there is better conductivity.  I suppose if it were full of resistance (bad splices and such) then it wouldn't work well, but I really don't think wood will matter to it.  

In fact, since its a ground wire, you could actually tie the wire to the steel posts - if activated then the current will find the path of least resistance (hopefully via the wire direct back to the charger), but if something has happened with that wire then the charge can merrily find its way through the steel post, earth, grounding rod and then the charger.

And now the internet shall tell me I'm wrong?
5 days ago

T Melville wrote:My go to is put a step in post against the metal post ...Effectively that adds several insulators for multiple strands.



That's a good idea too.  I think you're referring to the style of post that has 5 or 6 built in catches for electric twine or tape?  I'd say it could just be hose clamped to the steel post.

Only problem I see with those step-ins is that they aren't designed to hold any tension ... just to hold the line up and support it.  The little plastic tabs aren't aren't for holding a corner (are they?)
5 days ago
Maybe too futzy but consider this...

You've got a steel fence post there.  You can still build a wood fence on those using adapters.  So .. you could just mount a 2x4 to the steel post, and then all sorts of electric fencing adapters are an option - many of which are less expensive than wire tying ceramics.  Home Depot has "Yardgard Wood Adapter Clamps" for $2.68 ea.
5 days ago
Thanks for sharing Erica.  Ernie (and you) have done so much that its hard to grok it all.  I hope the move back to the coast is going well and that you and the sea bear are settling in.  I look forward to whatever lessons this next phase produces.
Huh.  You're right.  I loaded up the instruction manual and there is nothing in there about greasing the head.  I have a higher-numbered unit (the 131, I think ...) and its does have a grease port on the right side of the head - and the manual is all about doing that every twenty five hours.  Think I'm overdue...

I like the idea of making a grease port- A small hole drilled into the side of it, tapped and then shut with a bolt?  'That does involve some specialty tools you may not have around - but you can buy a single tap for $5-10.  Might be worth experimenting on this head - and then even if its dead you could buy a replacement head and add that port.

Good luck!
6 days ago
Jay - thanks for the thorough description of your setting and goals.

I agree with Mike that the metal roofing cries out for something water proof to go under it.  The Roxul material doesn't particularly care about water (duh - its fluffy rock), but water can move through it and water does affect its R value.

For the walls -- less possibility (nill maybe?) of water condensate behind the siding.  I'd just caution that wind and rain can produce some strange outcomes so be sure to manage your exposure with tight laps, eaves, etc.

One thing I don't see stated : some sort of barrier to protect the air gap in your wall and ceiling.  Bugs, birds, pine needles, etc love to get in there.  Fine Mesh, steel wool ... and some fancy plastic products you probably don't want ... do the trick.

I'll also toss out ... cork panels instead of Roxul isoboard?  Not sure about price/availability but 2" of cork insulation is great.  And it sheds water.  Not sure if it should sit under a metal roof without a barrier, but it might be an option to help you keep your design AND avoid synthetic materials.
1 week ago

Nissa Gadbois wrote:to shop, to learn, to eat, to sleep, perchance to dream.



Nissa:  These things vary state-by-state so you're going to have to go in and ask.  But what you ask is very, very important!  The department is built to say "No" to anything that doesn't fit the right category, so you have to define the category.

First, you're a farm. (Assuming you are actually zoned "farm" or equivalent).  Generally, you can build any kind of structure you want - so long as it doesn't look anything like a place for people to sleep or live.  Its up to you to make sure the building doesn't collapse and kill your critters, but its very much their job to make sure anything that people are "supposed" to sleep in doesn't fall down and go boom.  There is likely another code that says something like "farm building can't have more than 10 people in them at a time" - again a public safety oriented idea.

Second, you might need to fall back on the "home based business" category.  I'm going to have to do that because the definition of "farming activity" is, IMHO, too narrow and precludes adding any value to the product after its grown.  Calling it a home-based business solves that problem (for the activity, not necessarily the excuse for the building).

In my area (Oregon) there are many, many restrictions on residential structures.  I find the restrictions on even building a deck frustrating.  But if its a farm building then the zoning people only get to make sure that its built with proper setbacks from the property line.  If I add electricity or plumbing they need to inspect those, but again they pay no attention to the building itself.  And so long as my home-based business doesn't use more than 1800 sq ft (I think...) then they don't care about that.  So I can build a 30x50 "farm maintenance" building with a woodshop.

The other thing is figure out what you "can not build".  Codes are made to apply to certain things and say it very explicitly - so figure out what they don't apply to!  If the code says "a structure for gathering 10 or more people", then you specify that your building will only have 9 people in it at a time (and maybe even hang a sign to that effect).  

And always avoid the word "commercial" at all costs!!  That word means something very different to zoning and planning people than it does to you... to them a commercial building/activity means traffic, signs, parking lots, public access, idiot customers, police calls, employees. "Home based business" evokes quilting circles, spinning wheels and quiet cups of tea, jars of honey and no phone calls from the neighbors complaining!

p..s found this link: https://www.massagcom.org/StateLaws.php#ch40  Most of the links to the state sites don't work but that one makes it pretty clear that as a farm you can do things!
1 week ago

steve pailet wrote: The real question other than to keep a frame from racking ... do we really need to apply a layer of sheathing..  



Nope.

Sheathing is needed at the corners and that's it.  Our (stupid) house in Wisconsin was built that way, with 1" extruded foam sloppily placed down and then vinyl siding over that.  No one shared my California-raised concerns about this (earthquakes and energy use codes...).  If you build in diagonal bracing then you might not need OSB/plywood sheating at all - but of course this may all depend on how much you care about inspectors and local building codes!

"High performance framing" uses 24" oc framing with very carefully considered window and door placement to minimize thermal bridging without double studs.  The best combination of cost * effectiveness seems to be a 2x6 wall with 2" of external insulation (for my area ... your mileage will vary).

You're paying careful attention to vapor and air movement - that's good!  I'll add that you can, with care, design a wall without the interior plastic barrier.  Drywall done well with appropriate paint will give you a perm rating of 1.0 or better.  Electrical runs and outlets seem to be the major hazard here ... as well as a happy homeowner who thinks a wall is just for making holes in.
1 week ago