Lorinne Anderson

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since Mar 16, 2016
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To contact me directly: wildAID7@gmail.com.
I have been working with sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20yrs. My goal is to create ways for humans and wildlife to co-exist without resorting to harming each other, each others environment and to learn, understand and reap the benefits of co-existence.
Rather than kill or relocate (short term solutions) unwanted or predatory wildlife I believe we need to review the entire picture to provide a permanent solution.
What attracted the unwanted animal; what will ensure this animal ceases to be a problem; what will make the area unattractive to the unwanted animal; how will removal of one type of animal upset the natural predator/prey balance; and lastly, is the fear of what this animal MIGHT do based in fact or folklore.
Nature has a very delicate balance. We need to ensure we do not upset this system of millenniums just to solve today's irritation. So lets look "outside the box" for solutions, lets truly assess the threat, and lets truly identify a solution that works for all parties involved, us, the animals, and Mother Nature.
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
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Recent posts by Lorinne Anderson

I may have a hack for the pricey/ugly purpose built toilet frame (provides arm rests to assist toilet seat landings and departures) that is completely free standing, and easily stowed.

One option (amazon: super impressed with Carex) is the multitude of elevated toilet seats, various heights, with and with out arms, $30-$60 CDN.

I have also discovered that removing the "legs and wheels" off the standard walker created a helpful frame for the toilet that was light weight and folded easily, compactly and discreetly. Simply unfold and place over toilet, before or after raising seat, open to the front, with the "bracing" between the arms pressed against the tank (or seat, if "up") and presto, a toilet frame.

Over time the height proved too tall, so I found a "youth" walker (without wheels, all 4 legs have crutch tips) that went as low as 25 inches, same width, slightly shorter "arms". It has proved to be a great alternative at $60 than the purpose made ones for double and quadruple the price. With a little foresight, one could be picked up for peanuts, tucked behind the door, and ready at a moments notice - as a walker OR toilet aid.
15 hours ago
Two other things I forgot...  1) DO NOT USE hardwoods, they apparently absorb water badly.  2) Plumbing secret: if at all possible, run water and drain lines (underground) to a central hub or area and build all your plumbing needs around this (back the kitchen onto the bathroom and laundry room) this saves a ton of money, as the opposed to having the kitchen in one corner, the bathroom in another which requires way more pipe and contractor time; oh and whenever possible, keep all incoming and outgoing water lines OFF exterior walls - in your case, ideally underground - and freezing will never be an issue.

I have looked everywhere, can't find my copy of Harrowsmith...but I believe this is it:  The Harrowsmith Reader, vol II, from 1980, chicken on cover, around $20 from Amazon.ca - I just ordered me a replacement copy!

I sought in vain to locate an archive of old issues etc. (perhaps someone more clever than me can...), and have emailed the "new" Harrowsmith (the original kinda shut down for a while, not too sure if the new one is affiliated or not).  Have tried to research the test build I mentioned, and can find nothing (again, perhaps someone more clever than I...).  

There is a cordwood thread in this topic, from about 8 yrs ago, but again, I don't know how to do the permie link thingy (perhaps someone more clever than I???) that mentions Cliff Shockey, who built a cordwood home in Saskatchewan, and this link I believe is for him:  https://cordwoodconstruction.org

Then there is good old google, whilst seeking the Harrowsmith info, I found a few items that may be of interest or use.

These might be useful:  
Code and Permit Issues with Cordwood - Green Home Building
www.greenhomebuilding.com › QandA › code

Techincally this is for New Brunswick, but they do a good job of outlining the potential pitfalls of cord wood buildings.  https://snbsc-planning.com/cct/non-traditional-building/

Here is some local inspiration...perhaps a few field trips are in order?!
Cordwood Lodge Bed & Breakfast in Bracebridge, Ontario. The lodge is a forest retreat, even providing guest bedrooms. You can find out more from bedbreakfasthome.com.
Cradlerock under construction, Ontario, Canada. This photograph was found at “cradlerockhomestead.com/LayingCordwood.aspx”.

Incorporating glass etc., into a Cordwood build...
Cordwood Masonry:  https://www.cordwoodmasonry.com/V2/beauty-of-cordwood/   "...Cordwood masonry is an inexpensive, environmentally sound method of building both exterior and interior walls for houses and outbuildings.  Done correctly, these walls can also be very energy efficient, combining good insulation and thermal mass characteristics. I cover these points in my two latest books on the subject, Essential Cordwood Building: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide and Cordwood Building: A Comprehensive Guide to the State of the Art.

I am wistful and slightly maudlin; wishing time, age and infirmity had not ended my dream, and yet reinvigorated by my search - perhaps a cordwood shed is still in my future!  Good luck!

I am beyond jealous and overjoyed for you and your plans! I can't remember exactly where, BUT in Alberta an experimental stackwood/cordwood building was built (decades ago now) as a test facility to prove the thermal capabilities and structural integrity - for building code purposes. I believe this was attached to a university, and was a very long-term study, that seemed to have no end date.

I clearly remember the temperature fluctuations were negligible, as was supplemental heating - believed to be due to the thickness of the walls, and their incredible thermal mass.

Weather in Alberta is notorious for being both very cold and very hot, sometimes experiencing. 30-40 degree change (farenheight) in less than 12 hours. My memory may be faulty, but I am sure the temp stayed mid 60's to low 70's day in, day out, 24/7/365; this was not used as a "home" but more like a "lab" or classroom - a living experiment.  So heating may not be the challenge you expect, nor require anything but a small well placed woodstove.

The building had massively outperformed ANY and ALL expectations from a building cost, heating, cooling and maintenance perspectives. I believe it was in an old Harrowsmith Countrylife (from the 80's?) edition that featured the Albertan experiment, along with extensive discussion on the topic, from multiple builders who had shared their successes and what they would do different.

Rubble trenches were most common, BUT due to the weight of the walls, needed to be SIGNIFICANTLY wider than one would suspect - I believe the Albertan structure went 4 feet wide for it's trenches, and somehow, I believe there were old railway (yeah, yuck...) ties possibly incorporated in these trenches, or as the first layer (?) and definitely long (4-6 foot) squared timbers, (6x6's ?) to create the corners; stacked loghouse style, infilled with cordwood, and secured by spiking or threaded rod in the corners...  

One of the common regrets (by others featured in this Harrowsmith edition) was under building the foundation - sagging over time led to mortar separation and cracking, and instability.  After foundation issues, the most critical issues proved to be mortar mix and insulating barrier between the two mortared ends. Failure of the mortar mix led to shrinking and cracking that was a nightmare to maintain and recaulk.  

Insulation was another issue. Some suspected they had introduced wood boring insects by using sawdust (others wondered if the cord wood used was infested) as insulation, and was more prone to dampness inducing potential rot and loss of insulation. To this end, a NON biodegradable insulation such as fibreglass or rock wool may be advisable.

Another note, very WELL seasoned wood is critical; wood that was not fully dry, shrank and pulled away from the mortar and the wood itself split/cracked. Don't forget to include lintels and other external "framing" components in this (minimum) 2 year curing process

The flooring used in these multiple homes escapes me...I suspect there were multiple surfaces, hence the reason it didn't stick.

Attaching/supporting the structural members for the roof was also a challenge, I recall...something about the weight pinpointing on narrow portions of the stackwood walls... honestly, can't remember, but you may want to look at concrete piers within the rubble with some sort of structural component (such as your wood frame) that would adequately both support and distribute the weight of the roof structure.

You may want to consider exposed electrical conduit for housing electrical wires/supplying your electrical needs either beneath or atop the interior COB walls. Offers an extra layer of protection when placed BENEATH the COB.   It is an easy, albeit somewhat industrial look, left exposed, whether you go with COB or you stay with the exposed stackwood for electrical fixes/upgrades later.

I hope from my memories you can track down the Alberta Experiment and the Harrowsmith edition - they fueled my decades long addiction to this method of building that I finally had to give up, but still remains dear to my heart, and alive in my fantasies!
I used to have lots of feeders, 15 yrs ago - then I moved to where there were tons of roaming cats and felt it would essentially be 'bait' for the cats.

With our new metal (cat excluding) fence half done I went ahead and went feeder crazy! Ended up with a safe zone that I call "The Food Court" beneath a bountiful old Willow Tree with nine feeders, plus suet feeders; and a dozen hummingbird feeders scattered across the property. Then I added six nest boxes, let the blackberries run wild, worked to make the pond bird friendly and the majority of the property was left unmowed for habitat.

Aside from the pure enjoyment of watching them feed, forage, and raise their young; their songs were joyful and abundant. What I did NOT expect was when everyone was complaining how bad the bugs were this year, we had maybe 10% that we had experienced in all the years we have been here!

The untended long grasses and pond SHOULD have been a massive breeding ground for mosquitoes - I think we each got three bites, all season! Bottle flies could never be kept out of the house, we had swatters in EVERY room, used daily (if not hourly)n despite all the screens, along with sticky fly strips. This year we swatted just two flies, and needed NO sticky strips! The fly bags never came out of storage - historically we had at least four that were changed every few weeks.

I have absolutely nothing but anecdotal information, but the creation of the mini bird sanctuary SEEMS to have conquered the BUG situation. So aside from the pure pleasure the constant flocks of Junco's, Chickadee's, Bush Tits, Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Sparrows of all sorts, House and Gold Finches, we apparently have created natural bug control!

So I sya YES to feeding the birds - BUT do spend the time and money getting feeders that do not create waste and cause a rodent issue. All but three of my original feeders have been replaced with more efficient feeders and seed that limits waste significantly.
1 week ago
Predator Urine: not so sure I buy their collection story. For it to be true, they would have to be kept in small cages, with concrete, grate or metal floors. No natural substrate, no room to roam and engage in normal, healthy behaviors, no trees, etc.

As one who works with wildlife, at times confining them for extended periods. The goal is always as large an enclosure, and as natural an environment as possible, while they recover for release. We use concrete floors with drains, and there would be no logical way to collect urine from these drains, that I can think of - unless they were confined to a very small enclosure, specifically designed for urine collection - in my opinion.
1 week ago
Electrified "rabbit mesh" could solve the problem. I saw evidence of this with folks who had installed it to keep rabbits out - but placed a cat inside the mesh overnight for several weeks to get those "trapped" inside.

The first year they found they had trapped mice INSIDE the mesh, which very effectively excluded the cat, and the mice population exploded as they were safe from all but aerial predators.

Digging down at least 18 inches to preclude digging under, and enclosing the garden in a metal (roofing) fence also works great as it is unclimbable.
2 weeks ago
NOTE: Just how do companies secure "predator urine" such as wolf?

I can only assume it is similar to the procedure used to collect "Pregnant Mare Urine" aka Premarin, by keeping them contained and catheterized to collect said urine. I, personally, have ethical issues with this....

Honey, aloe, or an aloe/honey combo beneath the plastic cling film would be an excellent alternative to actual burn cream.
2 weeks ago
The cold water is key, for initial treatment, I prefer a running tap (I know...) for a minimum of ten minutes. Soaking in ice water for as long as it takes to stop actively feeling like it is on fire.  What others have said about Aloe and peppermint and lavender (that one is a yuck for me as I can't stand the smell) is great for minor burns.

The above information is for minor burns only, and I am ASSUMING THIS IS NOT A SERIOUS OR OPEN BURN. IF there is any depth to the burn, aside from the epidermis or very top layer, do not attempt to self treat, EVER. Risk of infection with a serious burn is simply not manageable or safe at home, and anything you apply, aside from water, will be excruciating when the have to REMOVE it at hospital to ensure sterility.

It may be worthwhile to truly have your burn "rated" as to first, second or third degree. IF this is third degree or often even second, the seeking of professional medical help is crucial and critical as long term complications of infection and contracture are serious, dangerous and can require hospital and surgery if not tended promptly.

In hospital, for cooling, they place sterile cloths, and pour on sterile saline to continuously cool the burn site - as mentioned this can take hours and hours.

Covering the sterile area with (I know, I know) plastic wrap/cling film keeps out airborne infection AND stops damaged nerve ends from being assaulted by air - this serves to prevent infection and lesson pain, significantly. Placed atop a good slathering of aloe would be my choice, for minor burns.

The key to pain and infection control is a very thin, lightweight, airtight covering that clings and forms to the affected area, then sealed with tape to be airtight as possible. The clear film allows you to SEE the progression of the burn also, making it obvious if infection is occurring.

The cling film (saran wrap type stuff others use to wrap food in) is so critical for burn management, in my opinion, I highly recommend keeping a roll in the linen closet or near the first aid supplies, for emergencies. It's also great as a dressing for large or long injuries as a sterile-ish covering for serious wounds or injuries; holding pressure bandages on tightly; or for emergency containment and sealing of penetrating wound contents (intestines etc.).

The exclusion of air also prevents moisture loss that can lead to skin tightening (contracture) that can be painful and mobility limiting.  There are commercially available burn gel strips that do a similar thing.

The exclusion of air over damaged nerve endings is the key to pain control. Think of a silly paper cut, and how that is so painfull. It is because the nerve cells have been damaged, not cut. Damaged cells hurt far worse than severed nerve cells. So Macgyvor what ever you can to literally seal the area from air, and continue to ice.
2 weeks ago
Why did he come asking questions in the first place?

Did he tell you what the "concern" was that had him pay the visit?

Could simply be he as checking to ensure someone wasn't squatting on private property; the "attitude" may well have been as he had not yet "verified" who you were.

Perhaps he was given erroneous information by the complainant...

I would be tempted to ring him: "Hello Tom, it's Sam from the property on Oak lane. I fear we may have gotten off on the wrong foot, the other day. My apologies, if I appeared defensive; I was just taken aback by your questions about WHY/WHAT I was doing, when on my own property - to be honest, you were our first ever visitor, and the unexpected nature of your visit caught me off guard and I may have appeared less than friendly.

I realize now, I never actually asked you what, if any specific concerns you might have; is there anything I need to know?"

Something along the lines above; instead of assuming there is a problem, and/or speculating, I would simply ask directly. At least that way you will KNOW what prompted his visit and exactly what his issue(s) or concerns are. He may even be willing to tell you if there is some remedial action you could undertake, at his suggestion, to ensure the situation does not escalate.

I'm suggesting it is possible YOU or your ACTIONS, as the actual landowner, was not the issue. It's possible it may have been as simple as ensuring someone else wasn't abusing private property (druggies, thieves, metal scrappers, meth cookers...) or otherwise engaged in illegal activity in his jurisdiction.

Good luck, trust me it sucks when you get on the bad side of these power hungry little men. I had one make my life miserable for over ten years. Made up all sorts of nonsense I could not fight as it was up to "their discretion". Lived here illegally for two years in our new mobile, before FINALLY he disappeared (quit, fired, retired).

The new person came round, was super helpful, and absolutely agreed that most of the orders had been utterly ridiculous. They apparently cannot actually "rescind" another's violation orders, but instead helped me come up with "work arounds" that satisfied the ridiculous "orders" without me having to actually DO the stupid and unnecessary actions that had been demanded.

A few examples: We have a double wide, on three foot deep rock/compacted gravel base with concrete strip (they run left to right across the width of the trailer) foundations, with tie downs to the concrete. Nimrod insisted we had to install perimeter drains (that we were expressly told by said Nimrod inspector were unnecessary when we sought verification during prelim install inspection). This was ludicrous as the gravel pad was 3 feet deep - and there are no "foundation" to be affected, and there were rain gutters on both sides.

When Nimrod declared this must be done I checked every reg, municipally, regionally, provincial and federally - no requirement. The mobile home company - 40 yrs in business in my district - had NEVER had this be demanded. Yet, when I provided this research, I was simply old that it was at the inspectors discretion as to how the regs were interpreted, and I had no recourse if I wanted an occupancy permit.

He made us do three extra "surveys" - each time for different PRE -EXISTING buildings on the property, onsite decades before I had purchased the property the 15 yrs previously.

He also made us triple survey the new mobile install; before and after the gravel pad was in, and again once the mobile was moved on...then claimed he never received them, as the "weren't in the file" (they were emailed and we had the "received" return email).

This went on for over two years: he failed our stairs (had to be 'non slip'); failed our railings for the front stairs (a standard railing kit from local big box) claiming the space created beneath the bottom board that skimmed the risers was too large; we had to add blocking, and yet passed the exact same set up on the rear stairs...it went on and on and on, every time he would find yet another "substandard" item - although nothing had changed from the initial fail, he somehow kept finding things he had "missed" last time.

Multiple times we did exactly as asked only to be told we should not have taken 'his word' on how to fix something, we should have verified his instructions in the code book!

Each inspection meant at least a months wait as the queue was long.  The last fail was because he decided the crawl space door was 3/4 of an inch too small - the regs said "this many inches by this many inches, for a total opening of this many square inches"; technically ours was larger than required as it was 6 inches higher than it needed to be, but nope, he 'interpreted' the width as insufficient!

Do your best to win him over - trust me, if he decides he want to make your life hell, he will!
2 weeks ago