Lorinne Anderson

pollinator
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since Mar 16, 2016
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To contact me directly: wildAID7@gmail.com.
I have been working with sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20yrs. My goal is to create ways for humans and wildlife to co-exist without resorting to harming each other, each others environment and to learn, understand and reap the benefits of co-existence.
Rather than kill or relocate (short term solutions) unwanted or predatory wildlife I believe we need to review the entire picture to provide a permanent solution.
What attracted the unwanted animal; what will ensure this animal ceases to be a problem; what will make the area unattractive to the unwanted animal; how will removal of one type of animal upset the natural predator/prey balance; and lastly, is the fear of what this animal MIGHT do based in fact or folklore.
Nature has a very delicate balance. We need to ensure we do not upset this system of millenniums just to solve today's irritation. So lets look "outside the box" for solutions, lets truly assess the threat, and lets truly identify a solution that works for all parties involved, us, the animals, and Mother Nature.
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
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Recent posts by Lorinne Anderson

Carmen, as to site navigation and following responses: you may want to go to your profile and select what topics you want to "watch"; either by specific word or category. Also, when notified of a response to a post you made or a "watched" topic, if you do not click and view the new post, you will not be notified of subsequent posts in that thread.

Hope this helps, as I have nothing to offer on greenhouse construction!
3 days ago
If your primary concern is keeping deer out the key is a tall (ideally 8 ft min) and visible as opposed to strong or electrified.

Electric fencing is best effective for preventing climbing critters, as the shock is diminished significantly by fur.

As you rent, tall bamboo poles, with inexpensive bird netting attached with zap straps (cable ties) flagged every foot or so will generally eliminate deer access. Keep in mind, on downslopes it will need to be higher. This can even be done with closely spaced fishing line, flagged with mylar flagging tape or with suspended CD's spinning in the wind

If you already HAVE an electric system it would add a layer of protection, on the outside of the tall fence, keeping them from getting close enough to jump. They do require constant maintenance and monitoring, and may be better suited for smaller enclosures to keep stock/fowl safely contained.
5 days ago
Cat litter: biodegradable alternatives to clay, silica etc.  

Pine Pellets are the same as the fuel sold for pellet stoves (made from waste sawdust) and is often cheaper than the specially packaged "cat litter" version.  When wet it disintegrates into a damp, powdery sawdust, making it easy to sift out the litter that has been urinated on, and remove the feces, ensuring no wasted litter.  

Recycled newspaper pellets (Fresh News, Yesterdays News...) very similar, and operates in the same manner as the pine pellets.  I am thinking both of these would compost better than the wood shavings, as they are so much more broken down right from the beginning...

I have used the pine and newspaper pellets (pine also make great bedding for rabbits etc), and frankly, just broadcast the "used litter" across the ground in a wide scattering "FLING" after removing the feces.  I have been warned by the septic people that one should NEVER flush cat feces, as for some reason they do not decompose like dog feces (apparently you do the soak test - place in jar, cover with water and seal, shake every few days to see how long it takes to break down) supposedly cat feces fail dramatically.  FYI this is also the way to test your TP for rapid breakdown.  TP that doesn't fall apart quickly, also does not disintegrate in your septic, just waiting for you to pay someone big bucks to pump it back out - no more triple ply for hubby after that disclosure!).

There are also clumping litters (Okacat) that are made from sawdust, and a clumping corn/wheat (sWeet Scoop) litter that also claims to be 100% biodegradable - I have not tried these ones, but they may work better at controlling ammonia, or so they say.
6 days ago
Perhaps it is different in North America... but absolutely worms (or other parasites) a cat can get, a dog can also get, including but not limited to:  tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms.

Stolen from:  http://northcoastgardening.com/2014/11/composting-pet-waste/

Pre-steps before composting cat waste

The first thing you would need to do is switch your kitty to a biodegradable litter. This would be pellet litter made from recycled newspaper, pine, or litter which is made of corn or wheat. These types of litter are also healthier for your cat. This is because most clay-based litter contains silica dust and chemical additives which can cause trouble with your cat’s digestive system over time.

Composting biodegradable cat litter should always be done with real caution because of the risks of potential pathogens which can be found in cats that eat birds and rodents. The cats can become infected when they eat birds or rodents which are infected with Toxoplasma gondii. This parasite can cause toxoplasmosis which can be fatal to infants and adults with deficient immune systems, and you can catch it from cleaning the litter box and not washing your hands afterward.  Therefore, when composting the litter, always wear gloves and wash your hands thoroughly when finished.
How to compost cat poop

HOW TO COMPOST CAT POOP

There are steps to composting cat litter correctly, and the process isn’t an especially complicated one.

First of all for a definite, place your compost pile away from any food growing areas. If you use a bin, make sure it is at least 1 cubic yard/ meter in size. This will keep your pile accessible and easier to turn. A smaller bin is harder to work with and doesn’t heat up as fast or as sufficiently too. In this case, bigger is better.
   
Choose the litter you’re working with carefully. You can’t use clay litter or litter with deodorant crystals. Your litter has to be 100% composed of plant-based material in order to break down in the compost bin.
   
Even though there is nitrogen in cat waste, you will have to add more nitrogen to make your compost work. The carbon in the litter is too heavy for the nitrogen in the cat litter to balance unaided. You will need to add any of the following sources of nitrogen: natural seed meal fertilizers, plant material, fresh grass clippings, dried alfalfa; either fresh cow, chicken or horse manure and even leftover veggies from making your salads can be used. As these extra sources of nitrogen decay, it will aid in the composting process.
   
Make sure you keep the compost pile moist. Keep an eye on it to make sure it is breaking down, and add what is needed when it’s needed to keep it in balance. The other important thing to know is to let the compost sit for at least two years before using it.


***As they have a canine version, just thought I would include it also.

HOW TO COMPOST DOG POOP ( http://northcoastgardening.com/2014/11/composting-pet-waste/ )

If you have a dog, then you have dog waste and depending on how big your dog is, you might have a LOT of dog waste. You probably bag it up or put in in a container until it becomes full; and then take it out to the trash at the curb. But there is another option- a pet poop digester. This is a composting system which turns dog doo into liquid, which dissolves into the surrounding soil and is eaten by microbes. Occasionally a usable compost will build up which you can harvest and use safely in ornamental garden beds, provided the interior of the bin reaches at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit and that you hold off on making new deposits for 8 weeks before harvesting the compost.
How to make a dog poop composting digester:

   Take an old (or new) plastic or metal garbage can and drill holes all over and around the sides but leave a few inches at the top intact. This is the area that will be above the ground.
   The next step is to cut the bottom off of the garbage can with a reciprocating saw or another tool that will accomplish the job.
   Dig a huge can-shaped hole in the area where you’re going to place the can. You will want the can to be above the surface but not to where any of the holes are visible.
   Put the can in the hole; fill in around the outside of the can with soil to keep the can in place. Put some rocks in the bottom for drainage too.
   Add a dose of septic starter to the garbage can after you’ve made several deposits from your yard cleanup. If the bin smells worse than you think it should, you can try adding one part sawdust to two parts waste to help things compost well.
   Make sure that you keep it moist to compost properly. Add more septic starter every few months or as needed to keep things composting.

This composter should be placed well away from any of your other compost areas and vegetable gardens. It should also be placed at least 100 yards away from any body of water.

If you’d prefer a less DIY solution, there are commercially-available systems for under a hundred dollars which connect to your sewer line, and others which work just like the above digester but don’t require drilling or sawing.


6 days ago
Just a note of caution when planting seeds for trees that fruit along roadways.  

Potentially this could be an attractant to wildlife (deer etc...) who would cross the road to access fruit, putting themselves and motorists in danger.  An attractant like this on a curve, down or up hill could make the animal invisible to vehicles leading to dangerous, potentially fatal (for both human and wildlife) accidents.  Please ensure this is only done on level, straight roads with very long sight lines to minimize putting both wildlife and drivers at risk of collision.
6 days ago
Somewhere on here is an interesting thread about "ringing" trees and allowing them to die, naturally, upright, until ready to harvest (1-2yrs?). Apparently this creates much stronger wood as the sap is absorbed (?) or something. Just thought I would mention it as it seems you will be harvesting to create dimensional lumber.

As to re-establishing a "wildlife" forest, I would speak to DNR about your plan; extending what they are already doing may lead to some verbal or written insight into their plans and research. Contacting local or state conservation groups may also yield some very useful insights and "intelligence. Heck, if the investigative work has already been done, avail yourself of it!

There is also the possibility of free/subsidized trees, shrubs etc from these sorts of organizations due to environmental improvement initiatives, over purchasing, or having them add to their order on your behalf. Bulk purchases are generally cheaper.

I would also check the local heritage/history folks/groups as they may even have photographs of what your (or nearby) land historically looked like as far as natural foliage.

As to where the driveway is washing out/marshy areas or the creek/pond, don't fight water, it will ALWAYS win. You CAN work with it, gently redirect, or even excavate damp zones to create low spots for the water to collect/drain to, creating useful rather than bothersome water.

I would not be too hasty doing anything, just yet. I would live a solid 12 mths to see what happens, where it happens; how do things change seasonally and with different weather?  

Now is the perfect time to get friendly with someone who owns a drone; or the perfect excuse to buy one and become skilled in it's operation. This will allow you to survey the land, regularly, through all seasons and all weather, giving you insight that would otherwise be unavailable, or unnoticed.

Whatever you do, take the time to really "learn" your land - taking the time now will save you a tremendous amount of work, energy, and funds, down the road. Don't view this as a "wasted year", view it as an investment in your property, so you can use it in the best way possible.

1 week ago
There is dry cold and damp cold as some have touched on. I am a Wet Coaster - the damp makes cold weather significantly "colder". On the relatively rare times we get sub zero (Celsius) I find -5 to be WAY colder than -35 on the prairies where it is a "dry" cold. The only time I experienced frost nip (precursor to frost bite) was when I was outside in Saskatchewan on a sunny -35 day where I FELT much warmer, and wore less clothes, then I would at home in BC at -5. I absolutely marveled at how "warm" I was when outside, during that prairie visit; it was my first comparison of damp cold versus dry cold.

Wind is also a significant chiller - much more so then actual "air" temperature; likely why "wind chill" factors are commonly a part of weather reports.  

I guess what I am saying is don't focus so much on the thermometer, and more on the actual climate when assessing how "cold" a place is.

That all said, I HATE heat, simply can't cope! I feel like I am suffocating when I visit someone who keeps their home/business above 20C, can't stand saunas or steam rooms either. Yet have no issue, even below zero, just wearing a long shirt/nightshirt to do outside chores - so long as it is not windy or rainy. If windy/wet/snowy I toss on a wind/waterproof jacket and I am still fine, with bare legs, often in slippers, even in the snow.

Summer, when it starts creeping above 25C my comfort level drops, ESPECIALLY in spring when we often have a sudden spate of 30+ days! As spring rolls into summer, my tolerance does creep up slightly, but anything above 30C is a struggle, the few weeks of high 30's is intolerable. Every room in our home has a massive 40 inch ceiling fan, we have lots of small, high windows for ventilation; heavy, insulated curtains are religiously closed during the day, thermometer monitored, and as soon as the outside temp is lower than inside all curtains and windows are thrown wide open for the night. In the morning, as soon as the outside temp is higher than inside, the window lockdown is implemented.

Fortunately we have heavily insulated 2x6 walls, and 36 inches of attic insulation, large, overhanging eaves and double paned windows. There are just a handful of days the internal home temp grows beyond 26C, without AC of any sort  In winter, the electric furnace kicks on for no more than an hour in the AM, and when chilly, again around 7 or 8 PM, based on the settings on the programmable thermostat.  Inside temp in winter is 19C during the day; 15C over night.

Oh, and don't forget a locations propensity for natural disaster: fire, drought, flood, hurricane, tornado, earthquake... I am personally comfortable with earthquake, not so much with Tornado's! Flooding, fire, meh, I can plan and really mitigate these, but drought or hurricane, not so much. Others would have greater or less levels of tolerance for these issues. It is important to consider your personal comfort levels, and ensure you factor in the cost and work involved to mitigate these potential issues.

Understanding the climate, proper clothing and a snug, insulated home are the keys in ANY location. I highly recommend spending the time and money to camp, rent a home, home swap etc for a 2 week "vacation" in locations you are considering moving to. Ideally, experience ALL four seasons in this manner, it really is the only way to truly understand if the climate is a fit for any person.  Some may view this as an unreasonable expense - my feeling is it is money well spent to avoid the massive effort of establishing yourself in a new location if the climate proves unsuitable, for whatever reason. Better to fully test the waters BEFORE making a massive commitment, especially if considering an off the grid/permies lifestyle. It would be heartbreaking to invest years and countless thounds of hours of toil to conclude the location is just not working for you...
1 week ago
Feeding raw, generally is not an issue of bacteria, for the dog - they can handle it - but for the humans who may inadvertently ("kisses" - dog licks - or touching fur when they groom by licking) come in contact and contract the bacteria.

Parasites though CAN be easily transferred to the pet AND human. In many cases freezing will kill the parasites (as with Sushi) but can still fail (as with Sushi and the numbers of humans who have contracted parasites from ingesting the raw fish).

Failure cause is unknown to me, was it not frozen long enough; were the Temps not low enough; was the parasite unaffected by freezing?  

I do know someone who regularly fed fresh killed deer to their many dogs, parasites were a huge issue. Same location, same dogs, same owners stopped feeding the raw deer meat, replaced with commercial kibble and have never had issues since. This is by no means a true test, but...

Cost (and potential harm) of dewormers more than offset the "savings" of feeding raw deer vs commercial kibble, in this case.
1 week ago
Shi* (the star represents the letter "T"...)
1 week ago
Glad to help. Oh, factor any slope into fence height. If they would be jumping "uphill" you can often go lower; if jumping "downhill" it may need to be higher....

I"m not anti electric, just not convinced the effort would be worth it - deer jump, not climb, so unlikely the electric would do much. Now, if they tended to "push through" then it could be useful.
1 week ago