For azomite, rock dust, green sand etc. If your soil needs the micro type of minerals these I use. Generally in soils low in clay might need this.
I like to think, short, mid and long term mineralization. It is important to know your soil and understand how you affect your soil and how to slowly work it in positive directions. This is benefit does not come at the flick of the switch if you do not take into account all the factors that enable this source of minerals to be utilized.
Rock dust and similar does nothing for your plants this year but for the future over time. Think of it like the Japanese say, Kaizen. Essentially, small imperceptible changes that over time make big changes or improvements. This helps keep brix consistent but is only part of the equation. It really depends on your soil management and grow style/plan, soil management, and the environment.
I think it is fine for most people here who are not using chemicals as the soil life is necessary to break that rock down and make useable for the plants. As stated, good soil life and carbon are also essential parts of that equation for it to be of use.
Adding to worms for grit and to compost I always do.
No need to go crazy generally but as some have already said, determine after soil test but all things simple Just give sprinkle in the spring and is already in the compost and worm castings. Seawater and fermented seawater are great for adding maintenance minerals.
For positive microlife I love to use natural farming techniques, worm castings, composts of varied types from leaf molds, decomposer (mushroom) compost and sea and forest composts. Biochar I love as it helps stabilize the microlife as like fortress homes that helps during periods of soil stress.
I believe in it but only if used effectively and overtime. Not all soils need it and is point of no return to potentially causing lockout issues if heavily over done but mostly when done like that it is just a waste of money.
I see it as a soil tool. Like all tools, it depends on the need.