Lina Joana

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since Jan 31, 2015
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Recent posts by Lina Joana

Ok, counting them up, I’ve got 14 ten foot lengths. I’d say an average of 15 inches wide, so that is about 175 square feet (more board feet of course, since they are well over an inch thick).
Since I bought the saw, I’ve used 3.5 gallons of gas - which includes felling, limbing, and  sectioning the tree before ripping the boards, as well as felling a second gum and cutting a bit of firewood.  Not sure how that compares to bandsaw mills, but not needing the big machinery is nice. The boards have been transported and stacked with the help of a furniture dolly: lay it flat and put the board up against the base, and you can move and steer a 10 foot board with surprising ease. So the only fuel really has been the chainsaw.
Also worth noting: so far I haven’t noticed the chain getting dull. Not sure how long it’s supposed to last, but so far so good.
2 weeks ago

Trace Oswald wrote:

One Scythe Revolution is the reason I haven't bought a scythe yet.  I wanted to buy a scythe and take his class because he isn't terribly far from me.  I couldn't even get him to answer emails to sell me one.  Now I'm ready to explore new avenues.  I'm not going to spend hundreds of dollars with someone that won't respond to simple emails.

  I’m sorry to hear that! I think with a lot if these small companies, it is easy for things to fall through the cracks... despite the current delay, I have had a fantastic experience with Scythe Supply. When I bought my kit, they double checked my measurements because my legs are long for my height and they didn’t want to get it wrong. Then, I manage to lose the handle (you have to glue them on so they fit your grip). I contacted them to buy a new one, and they just sent it, no charge. So even with the delay, and sometimes missing an e-mail - I give them high marks.
2 weeks ago
Nice! Where do you find one like that?
2 weeks ago

Benjamin Bouchard wrote:

Even when fully cranked down, the blade is still predisposed towards slipping out of its proper hang, so getting it clamped down tight is pretty important...

Second that! Just what happened to me: the blade was just a little loose, then hit some tough stems, and the blade came out of it seat and bent the ring. Very frustrating to have to wait for a replacement while the poison ivy takes over. I haven’t used any other models, but that is a weakness of this design - I wonder if there are other ways of attachment that would be sturdier?
2 weeks ago
I can finally contribute meaningfully to this thread!
Last winter I invested in a Husquavarna Rancher 460, new.  I'm sure I could have spent less, but fixing tools and knowing when they are a good deal is not my specialty, so I went for the warranty.  The maximum bar for the model is 24 inches, which came with the one I bought.  I got the Granburg Alaskan chainsaw mill, and an OREGON 72RD084G 84 Drive Link 3/8-Inch Ripping Saw Chain Standard Sequence.
 This combo has worked fantastically for me.  I felled a gum tree, cut it into 10 foot sections, and started ripping.  once you put the mill on the chainsaw bar, you get a maximum of 17 inch width or so, which was less than the bottom trunk width.  So, I got some friends over, we cut until the log was too wide, then gave it a quarter turn and cut from that side, which was enough to get through it for all but the lowest section, which I gave up on. Other than taking one side off, I left everything as live edge wood for now.  Gum wood is famous for warping like mad while it is drying, so for the most part I went with 3-inch thick planks.  I would have made them thicker to be safe, but wet wood is heavy, and I don't have any machinery to help with the lifting.  I cut one board a bit over 4 inches, and two of us couldn't budge it until I'd cut it into 2 5-foot long sections.  I decided I'd take my chances with the warping to have longer boards.
  To start: you can buy or make metal rails for the first cut, but I'm a wood person.  So, I took 2 short 2X4s, and screwed them to each end of the log, then stood two 2X4X12 on edge and screwed those to the short pieces.  I then set the mill to cut just below the short pieces.  My first cut could have been thinner, but it was even, at least.  
  As far as keeping the boards even: it didn't go too badly - once the chainsaw is into the wood, the mill really does balance reasonably well, and it isn't like you have to fight the weight of the saw to keep it on the surface.
  Strain on the chainsaw engine: its too soon to tell how well the saw will hold up.  However, it did take a bit to figure out how to keep from overwhelming the saw and stopping the chain.  The key was 1) don't push the saw forward to hard.  Just be patient and go slow. 2) rock the saw a bit.  Cut an angle on the near end, then pivot and do the same on the far end.  That way, you aren't cutting the full width at once, and it is harder to stall out the blade.  Also - be careful when cutting logs close to the maximum - a little bump and the saw won't move, and it might take a few minutes to figure out why.  along the same line, sometimes the end would be a bit uneven, leaving a lip on the log.  On the next cut, the mill would get caught there, and I'd be left wondering why my saw wouldn't cut the last inch!
   Posture:  If you have large logs on the ground, experiment with the warrior 1 yoga pose.  Or squat, or kneel.  Don't just bend over, you will kill your back.  If you are lucky enough to be situated on a hill, fantastic.  If you have the manpower and your log is light enough, you might be able to roll and maneuver it so that one end is propped up a bit.  If you can, it is worth the trouble. Obviously, if you have heavy machinery around, you can lift it onto some sort of braces, and run the mill at standing height.  I didn't have that, and it still worked.
   Gas consumption: one cut took somewhere over 1/2 tank of gas.  So that is about 14 square feet of cutting.  I've been meaning to count my boards, at which point I can give a more accurate estimate of how much gas I burned to do this.  I'll try to do that tomorrow.
2 weeks ago

Benjamin Bouchard wrote:
As long as you have rudimentary tools it's possible to self-fabricate a square key pretty easily. Just heat and bend some rod stock and either forge or grind/file the end to the appropriate size.

Benjamin, I have no doubt that is true, but I do feel that needing rod stock and a forge to change a blade takes it out of the realm of "super easy" for most people!  Maybe upgrade it to "moderately easy" in this crowd...
2 weeks ago
I also got mine from scythe supply, so the measurements were up to them. I got their hybrid ditch blade, and have been quite pleased with it overall.
On their design, the blade is super easy to change, as long as you don’t lose the key for the ring, which is like a hex key, but square and not easily substituted. Important to keep around, because the blade can loosen a bit with use and weather changes. Sadly, I used it without tightening enough one day when I had misplaced the key. We have weeds that dry out in the winter to some of the toughest stalks I have come across, and in trying to cut them with a slightly loose blade, I managed to bend the ring. I’m sadly waiting 6-8 weeks for a new ring.
Regarding size, I do remember seeing some with adjustable handles. Might help
If you are between sizes.
2 weeks ago
I’d be cautious - the reason being even though I know a bit about renovation, I don’t know enough to prevent costs balooning: I’ve heard stories of people buying a house to fix up, then running out of cash halfway through the reno and being foreclosed it on in turn. If you have the knowledge, or know a really really good housing inspector, and double any estimate you come up with you can hopefully avoid this pitfall.
Also to watch out for: the house we bought was bought as a foreclosure by the previous owner. She told us that when she took possession, the house had been vandalized - people are often pretty bitter about losing their property, and that can happen after the inspection and assessment.
I just tested a 3% solution of baking soda dissolved in pure water with a lab grade pH meter, and got a reading of 8.3.
How accurate is your measuring system? Do you have anything to calibrate with that high? Also, you definitely used baking soda, not washing soda, correct?
If it were me, I’d check the rainwater, and rainwater with baking soda dissolved in it, see if you have anything close to the water you tested before. If rainwater and baking soda measure a lot lower, I’d start wondering what other residues might be in my equipment. I wouldn’t try to drink it, but by itself, pH 10-11 will just dry out your skin, it won’t burn. However, I might worry that whatever is increasing the pH is accompanied by some other chemicals, especially if my equipment was used.
3 months ago
I’ve used both the Sawzall and the circular - both really nice.
 I will say, though, that I own the Ryobi versions, and while the batteries do need charging a bit more often, I have done quite a lot of work with them to good effect. Nit as junky as I would have expected.
I got my father the Milwaukee tools in EBay used. M18 battery versions for under 100 each.
5 months ago