C. Letellier

pollinator
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since Nov 08, 2013
Greybull WY north central WY zone 4 bordering on 3
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Recent posts by C. Letellier

Fun lesson.  What you posted didn't match my understanding so just took a googling lesson in chloramines and you were right and my understanding was faulty.  I originally thought chloramines were  by product of treatment with chlorine and wasn't aware that they were also added for water sterilization.

Looked at dozens of  articles but this one sort of sums it up.  

chloramine removal

That said the common chemical treatments would cause an increase in salt in your soil so for both expense and salt build up are not workable.

UV treatment might work but it takes long exposures so likely not valid.

And the others are knocked off for similar reasons.

So that leaves the catalytic carbon filters as your best option still.  If the flow rare is not good enough can you simply put more in parallel?  4 of them in parallel should get you the flow rate you want.  Since they are processing the same number of gallons either way life expectancy per filter should be the same so you should only have to change them out 1/4 as often.  One question here is have you checked your water quality out of the filters?  The articles seem to say the water needs to move really slowly thru the filters for most effective removal.  

The other answer I see is can you automate your watering system?  40 hours a week watering doesn't sound like a problem if you are not involved in the process.

If you test your output water you might find you need 8 or 10 filters in parallel and to water continuously under automation to get slow enough flow for the filters to do the job.
7 hours ago
You might try looking at articles on insulating windows.  Both bubble wrap and poly wrap have been adhered to windows with a thin film of water freezing them on.  There are a number of articles on this.  So one of them might include the information you are looking for.

Also have you looked at the active foam insulation.

19 hours ago
While it wouldn't hurt some bugs are not worth that and on the other end what if 50 or 100 people or more report the problem before it can be fixed or taken down?  I think things have gotten bad enough companies couldn't afford to pay for all of it.  I first started seeing stack overflow and buffer over run exploits in college in the late 80's.  They still happen today.  Why?  because fixing them isn't that simple because of how long and complex the code has gotten.  

The other problem is a reporting method.  I had one I wanted to report last night and there was no way to reach them other than order line phone.  They were doing a customer preference survey only who ever coded the survey forgot to add the pictures for the color codes.  So I had 8 options to choose from and no way to know what they meant.  So I simply clicked on blue2.  I did try and phone since it cost me nothing.  After an hour and half on hold music they just hung up on me.  Guessing they get too many problem people to filter them off easily and it is easier simply to block everyone.  
6 days ago
Best way in the world to reinvigorate an old patch!  First year is so so growth while they reestablish.  2nd and 3rd years are usually amazing.  The one caviot is to believe you are fairly clean of disease.

Mixed fruiting habits are a pain.  And I would begin to work to separate them.  You will want to prune everything back anyway transplanting.  Separate to individual plants and build your rows.  Then keep track of the plants that fruit on first year wood and mark them somehow.(ribbon around the base, jar ring around the base, bale twine rings around the plant or something)  Then look at each row in the fall or next spring.  I would them move the plants that there were the least of, out of that row while filling gaps as best reasonable from another row of the other type.  The goal being to create rows that are the same and ideally to completely separate the plants into individual patches again.  Try to minimize your work while maximizing your gain here.  You will mess some up.  Just do your best.

If you watch the plants really close watching the bark of first year wood you may be able to sort of sort the plants because some of the time the bark looks a bit different.  With Latham and Heritage for example here Heritage near the base has bark that is usually a bit smoother looking and slightly lighter.  So while moving plants even if I wasn't sure I would try and sort bark that looked alike into groups.  It costs very little time or effort wise and might prevent needing to move stuff another year.
Here is what I have had to try lately.  I was given a large bunch of these.  The tree pots are 3x3x8 (pot # 38 and tray # TR6)  and the tray to hold them is supposed to 25 but with these and crowding it I can get 36 of them in a tray.  Notice the bottom of the pot is nearly open.  I use these in indoor tray situation I have been cutting small squares of latch hook rug plastic mesh to drop in the bottom and hold the soil in.  Come planting time a simple stick pushes the soil ball out along with the small square which is recovered to reuse with the pot.  The I have been using these pots 3 years with no sign of deterioration so they should do at least 4 years.  The pots are well ridged to try to force roots down instead of spiraling and the bottom fairly well air prunes.

trays(select option TR6)

tree pot name 38.
2 weeks ago
First let me say let me say I am a border line hoarder.  I grew up poor and rural with parents who grew up during the great depression and were both poor and rural families too.  Both sides of the family believed in having basically every skill set and being able to do anything.  Being a high end nerd with that background means both wide ranging skills set and wide ranging interests.

Then let me add a quote from my father "When you have the time you almost never have the money and when you have the money you don't have the time."  His point was when you were laid off, injured and healing etc you very rarely had the money at that point.  But if you could gather the materials far cheaper over time and have them ready eventually you got an opportunity to use them.

Another point to come out of this was in taxes.  If you built it yourself out of lower value materials over time it might save you money even if it cost a little more.

So things break down into 4 rough categories.

1.  general purpose materials that have no plan but might not be able to afford when needed or might need in a hurry.  Plywood, certain plumbing parts etc.  These I try to reevaluate as needs change, space changes etc.  Some of them have been stupidly kept.  Others are amazing "finds" after being stored for decades.  They were just what was needed.  And this scatters into work too.  Also to remember here on things like bolts if I am working in the shop and my shop rate is $60 an hour and a trip to town takes a minimum of 30 minutes if I can save work time equal to 20 trips to town without spending much on storage or storage time that is $600 of stuff I can afford to have sitting there.  If the customer needs it NOW it has more value to him too.  Often the customer isn't paying for the part so much as the time to find the part and the fact that I have it available right NOW.  By the same token things like sorting bolts has fallen by the way side.  As it is no longer cost effective to do with smaller bolts.  This is one someone with the time might be able to build their own kit from.

2.  Tools.  Here if it serves a function or a back up function and I have space for it, it is kept no matter what.  The exception if if I get or build a better tool.  In which case the tool is sold, given as a gift or trashed.

3.  Stuff for specific projects.  There are probably 200+ projects in various stages from dream to nearing completion that stuff is being gathered for.  The no clutter people would say there should never be more than one project at a time and all efforts to go into it till complete.  Then next project.  My problem is I can't afford the resources to work that way.  So I dream on lots, gather for some, jump on freak chances resources that just show up for a few more.  And keep putting along.  I have accomplished a lot with very little.  

4.  Other.  Some is useful but a lot should go.  Figuring out what to save and what to keep for now VS what to sell and what to trash is my biggest struggle for now.

The criteria for most of it is does it have a home where it will store safely?  Does storing it cost anything(both $ and time)?  How likely am I to need it?  What is its value to me or to the customer if is needed?

I would love to do zero waste.  Simply can't afford the time to do so.

By the same token as a mechanic/repairman my profession is saving everything I can economically.  The question is how much am I capable of saving while still making a living.
3 weeks ago
We had a slightly newer singer treadle while I was growing up.  My mother used the needles that fit her Elna in it without a problem.  Since yours is older don't know if the needles are the same size or not.  
1 month ago
Most of it is so specific to local rules it is mostly nearly worthless.  For example here if you are building a small shed you want it on skids because provided it is on skids so it can be easily moved and provided it is under 200 square feet it doesn't count on the property tax.  On the other hand some of the advice like be sure you get water rights if possible applies nearly anywhere west while get right of ways is nearly universal.  There are a bunch of discussions that delve into this on permies.  But there is no univeral link for finding them.  They are mixed with nearly every other topic.
1 month ago
You do understand that the goal is to put slightly more dirt on all sides than is your normal frost line?  So if you frost line is 2 1/2 feet then you want say at least 3 feet of dirt on all sides.  Insulation will help but an above ground cellar has exposure on 5 sides while a normal cellar is mostly below ground on all but one side giving better geothermal heating and less loss area for heat.  For a fully exposed cellar you will likely need way more insulation.  In this area good root cellars have at least 4 feet of dirt in every direction.
2 months ago