C. Letellier

pollinator
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since Nov 08, 2013
Greybull WY north central WY zone 4 bordering on 3
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Recent posts by C. Letellier

While that is a full years worth of rain in a single day here that wind would be nothing.  We do 40 to 60 every few weeks much of the year here in WY.  Sometimes we do that much wind for days at a time.  Now if we ever got that much rain for days on end there are creeks that would be white water rapids miles wide.
1 day ago
Suggest try testing the water.  Older roofs should be losing very little dangerous.  Most of the volatiles should have washed away or evaporated over time.   So risk should be small.  That said can you collect it and then do some sort of solar still?  You might still gather volatiles but a bit of fraction distillation wasting some water would likely get rid of them.  Or alternately what about reverse osmosis with the water?
2 days ago
Potential tools for hugelkulture on a huge scale?  Starting 39 seconds into the video and going to 2 minutes.  If you could get it stirring a bit more dirt into the pile it might be amazing while tackling slash piles from forest logging.

2 days ago
The building science info would scream DO NOT!! use black poly there as it will cause moisture troubles and wall rot.  The outer barrier in that climate must be a vapor permeable air barrier so the wall can dry.


Suggest watching videos on perfect wall.(especially Matt Risinger videos)  Given your constraints you can not do it but you can probably rob the principles and still make it work.  Another one to watch is the building principles videos by Joseph Lstibuerk

The outer layer in perfect wall is just designed keep most of the water from reaching the next layer.  Cracks and gaps are actually a good thing.  The next layer in is an air gap.  Then comes a vapor permeable air barrier.  Then the insulation.  In perfect wall both the membrane and insulation should continuous.  Then you have the sheathing and finally have the standard stud wall.   You can't do that so you will have fudge seriously.

If I understand the principles correct here is what I would try.  I would start by adding a tapered board sloped to the outside to the top of each section of sill and covering it with a layer of the brush on sill seal that is waterproof/vapor permeable that covers the tapered board and goes just a bit up each stud.  The goal here is simply to try and get any moisture that gets in the insulation and goes down to the sill out of the wall to the outside as fast as possible while still hopefully allowing the all existing wood to dry.  Then I would add a bunch of vertical strips say 1/2" square to the inside of the siding.  Its job is to space the barrier away from the siding.  Then staple the first layer of barrier to the studs.  The barrier might be tar paper or Tyvek or many other answers.  Tar paper would give you your black background but would be really hard to work with.  So guessing you will want some one of the other materials.  Then I would fill the rest of the cavity with rock wool insulation.  Over that I would put another layer of barrier except now unbroken down the inside studs.  Over that I would try and get my layer of continuous insulation.  My best bet from reading would be the rockwool comfort board.  It is a bit more rigid than rockwool plan.  Cover the entire walls in it in as continuous insulation.  Then nail or screw the interior siding to the studs thru the comfort board.  

This in less than optimum form should fulfill most goals of perfect wall.  It won't have quite as much moisture shedding capability but should have decent drying so hopefully there will be enough air flow to dry any moisture that gets in before it rots the wood.  You might want to be adding screened vent holes to the siding top and bottom.  That depends on the amount of cracks you already have.  It does give the rain screen layer, ventilation layer, moisture shedding layer, exterior insulation, close to continuous barrier and an inner nearly continuous insulation layer.  It just stacks them in the wrong order.

For floor joists insulate between, vapor permeable air barrier stapled to the bottom of the joist and then a layer of comfort board insulation to give as close as possible continuous outside without the joists creating thermal bridging.  Just batten boards most likely would be enough to hold it up but more likely I would add a layer of plywood screwed thru to the joists to protect it and hold it up.

Now remember the ceiling is your worst heat loss location as heat rises creating stack affect and sucking cold in everywhere..  So you really do need to insulate it too.  Insulation method would vary greatly depending on type of roof and ceiling.  Watch a bunch of the videos then figure out how to apply the principles in your case.
3 days ago
Personally I have been looking at the low voltage bulb replacements.  If it is done correctly I should end up with a bulb that can be lite from either AC or low voltage DC.  At the switch add a power supply and rectifier and a double pole switch.  Then run a low voltage line to the switch too.  Then the light can run from either battery or from AC.  The advantage is the system won't need any big inverters or feed back protetion gear for the line.  More expesive on an individual basis but should be far less expensive over all.
6 days ago
Can you run another set of pipes someplace better in the house?
1 week ago

Gilbert Fritz wrote:To make this work economically, I'm going to need to learn to make my own wooden handles. I know that riven wood is stronger than sawn. Does anyone know of a book or website which covers the process of riven tool handle making from log to handle?



Suggest checking out the PBS Woodwright Shop videos.  I know he did videos on green wood tool making and spliting stuff there and and shingle making and splitting wood there.  Don't remember if there one on handles but I think those other videos will give you most of what you need to learn to control the direction of split etc.  Also look for the steam bending video.

As for the rest suggest learning your local garbage truck route schedule.  Can you walk those on garbage day ahead of the trucks for exercise and then go back and haul stuff home if you find something interesting?  A lady I dated 20 years ago had 4 things she collected on a regular basis.  Bicycles, vacuum cleaners, push lawn mowers, and bbq grills.  The goal was to find the easy to fix ones to sell or give away and the rest went back in the trash.  Vacuum cleaners more than half of them were simply plugged.  She said it was usually a hose plugged with dried cat feces wedged in it.  Quick fix and then resell.  Gather some common parts from the ones that didn't fix easily(like new vacuum bags) and trash the rest for a second time.  Bikes she gave away to neighborhood kids but she got probably 25 easily fixed bikes a year in her area.  BBQ grills was often simply missing knobs or bad igniters.  There again easily fixed.  Also she found many of these that were good but someone had simply trashed because they got a new one.  Push lawn mowers a bit of fresh gas with sea foam added and a new spark plug got a fair number of these running.  Replacing pull ropes and broken wheels saved a few more.  Rest simply went back in the trash.  The goal was always to find the ones that could be fixed most easily.  She found lots of other interesting things too.  Furniture etc.  Heck I am still wearing a coat she found then.   The first step was simply taking a walk for exercise down the right alleys on the right days.
1 week ago
You decide which one you want to keep and then make it happen as eventually separation will fail.  Normal answer growing up was to eat the "non survivor".

1 week ago

Rob Lineberger wrote:Pruning shears and a map of the garden?



Trick it is!  :-P
1 week ago
One other question.  As the links to external stuff go down is there a legal way to keep the information without violating copy right?  In essence a screen shot/html shot of the site as it was when the site was running.  Guessing the answer is mostly no.  For example I went by a 9 year old thread just a bit ago with about 20 links in it that all the links were dead.  Some linked to public university stuff that can probably be found again by proper searches but other stuff is just gone.  Guessing the answer is no.  But just stirring the thinking pot.