Patrick Rahilly

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since Jul 25, 2013
Soil Scientist
Env. Restoration
Water Resources/Wetlands
moscow ID
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Recent posts by Patrick Rahilly

Corn beef brine recipe... add all ingredients, bring to brief boil to dissolve salt And sugar, let steep with lid on for an hour or so, let cool before adding to meat in a ziplock bag, seal with no air; turn daily. Cheers!
1 month ago

Leila Rich wrote:I had a bit of a look around on permies, but this cut doesn't seem to have been discussed.
'brisket' seems to be the standard name ...
Anyone else a brisket fan? How do you cook it? I've only braised it Asian-style, served with rice.
I know there's some traditional European recipes I should try

A few days late for saint patty’s day but here’s my corn beef brine recipe... clean brisket should sit in brine for at least a week (2 weeks better) at 35-40f. Easy and no nitrates. Much better than that store bought crud. After brine, just cover in water add more spices and boil for 3 hours so until it falls apart. Cook you potatoes, carrots and cabbage in same pot.

Cleaned up a 17lbs brisket last week; 2 flats went to corn beef brine; 2 flats going to a dry rub for pastrami; point is going into freezer for summer time long smoke fall apart brisket godness
1 month ago
Well, we have a country mill grinder, and used it a bit with the power arm, but, then I started looking at the vintage schwinn excercise bike that came with the house, so I bought a clothes dryer belt and hooked it up simply, bolted the grinder to a piece of pine, and measured out a spacer piece of pine board to have the weight of the bike keep the tension. There’s lots of complicated designs out there, but this was cheap. I can easily kill 4 cups of wheat in 25min, 6cups of flower made. For what it’s worth. I’ll probably improve on it. :)
2 months ago
Down in Moscow, a hop scotch skip and away from sandpoint.  but have some interesting stuff going on down here. Send a note. definitely interested in chatting. send a purplemeose  leprechaun note or send an email.
2 months ago
one other note... nuts. Pecans are used quite often to "dry up" wet areas in the south, you might be able to find a suitable cultivar for your area.
2 months ago
ok, please accept my quick MS paint drawing... but I have a few comments. If no building are being damaged by flooding, praise be. Flooding, of blueberries, I dunno, but, as a side note, Wa State Dept of Ecology has fined farms big on blueberry farms that have applied compost in fall that got washed off in flooding events and messed with their TMDL's. just something to keep aware of.  

I tend to think of land and plantings in places that plants want to be and thrive to grow. But that said, there are ways to manipulate water flow in a beneficial manor without changing the natural flow of things (keyline as an example of such).  US army corps of engineers had a big (disaster) plan to drain wet areas and river (straighten the rivers, drain the swamps) as fast as possible, huge problems there. Instead, beautify the land by slowing water at the top, help increase infiltration and percolation, delay the movement of water over the surface and create a path for water to move through the soil ... and that gets to my simple drawing.  You will likely need an engineer (or do a bit of search on web for a slope/contour/soil type/veg cover/rainfall intensity index model (sorry I dont have one off hand (MAYBE SOMEONE HAS A LINK TO SUCH A MODEL, RUSLE is a good place to start search))).

Another note, I'm pretty sure in one of sepp holtzers vids, create a pond without permit, said something like ,,,you just take a little dirt at a time and make a small burm, then add a little more, if regulatory agency question, you just say "I was cleaning out a natural wet area"... I hope I got that right, full disclosure, I am not suggesting you do anything outside of permitting, and if I wrongly associated such comments with sepp, may I be struck with lightning.

So contour terraces. I have about a quarter acre of them, 2ft wide beds on about a 15% slope (1ft between beds), it works out well, you can angle them in a back and forth manor to prevent over flow kinda like a plinko game (?), plant the slope between each terrace with dense red clover or something perennial.

Ok, I think I should stop before I get in trouble. Have fun, but live life and be on the edge of trouble... the good side :)
2 months ago
Thanks for the suggestions,
I've worked with (washington state association of conservation districts plant materials center) but they tend to stick with mostly natives.  Maybe a good link for some folks.
and arbour day foundation also has a bulk tree section

I had another thought about the wattle, there are some studies that show living hedgerows can increase soil moisture, better snow distribution, reduced ET etc. But when used in an agroforestry type situation ( hedges spaced, on contour, annual crops planted between hedges), there can be an increase in overall annual crop productivity, but a decrease in annual crop production near the hedges... since this wattle is essentially a "dead" hedge row, it might actually increase soil moisture directly adjacent to it which may help in establishment of the living faction addition and reduce the need of irrigation.  It'll be interesting to see how growth and soil moisture will be this coming spring.  I need to get some trees ordered :)
3 months ago
Zone 6B, granitic alfisol, disturbed, somewhat poorly drained

Ok, there are some good posts on living fence/coppice/hedgerows, but how do you get them started, especially when you already have livestock and don't want to spend $1,000s for a permanent fence that you don't want long term? I had one idea, make a wattle fence from trimmings and thinnings.  I suspect the wattle should last 5 years, sheep proof and add enough structure for the coppice plants to take root, grow and start to develop into a permanent living fence.  Planting being on the opposite side of the pesky sheep.

One day this past june, I was trimming up trees for fire protection and looking at them thinking what a mess.  And then I was down in the forest thinning out 4" dbh pines... It got my thinker going, well, I needed a fence.  So, I started to build it, and then realized this would be a perfect structural start to protect a hedge row until the living fence could be established and laid properly.  

Posts: thinned 4" diam pondo timber, pointed with a chainsaw and hammered upsidedown (top of tree side down) about 2-3ft below soil surface.  Posts placed ~3ft apart.
Wattle: all those trimmings from limbing up trees. just woven all artsy.

1) I wonder if any of you have seen this done in this way?
2) Anyone have any other suggestions on how to start a hedge row with animals, suggestions/thoughts (?)
3) Anyone have a good source for cheap hundreds of plants (hoping $1 each) thinking thornless locust but a quicker growing tree would be ideal for interplanting. I doubt poplars will grow well in this part of the property without longterm irrigation, but then again, our cherries apples and pears are not irrigated.  there might be a good drought tolerant poplar i'm not familiar with.

Food for thought. Looking forward to a good conversation.
3 months ago