is the first place to go if you haven't seen it
The compost process requires heat, air, moisture. When the pile is large enough it generates it's own heat and retains it's moisture longer, but should be turned periodically to keep the process aerobic, and watered occasionally if it's losing moisture.
Again, compost is a specific biological treatment by microscopic organisms, anaerobic organisms are thought to be the bad guys in the soil, compost organisms are aerobic and generally the good guys.
Nutrient ratio for compost is about 25 parts carbon to one part nitrogen- human waste is about at a perfect ratio,but urine is high nitrogen, and can accelerate the pile working. Inside I keep my bucket as dry as possible, but save the urine and mix it in later outside--this helps compensate for the sawdust which is almost pure carbon.
I always mix mine with other compostables when I build a pile and usually try and spike it with a little extra nitrogen--chicken s**t-- so I save up my stuff until I get together a cubic yard/meter which is the recommended amount for a good hot pile and then build the pile and turn it every couple days .
You can do this round or square, but too small or spreading it out too thin won't generate the heat needed. Keeping it anaerobic inside a plastic bin is how methane is generated, but it will need some added heat, and a way to collect the methane, and the end product still needs to be composted to finish the treatment.
I believe most places where composting is legally possible there is a two year minimum treatment period which might be your best option if you want to throw a bit at a time into a small bin, close it up and leave it for two years. That means depending on the amount generated you will likely want at least three bins, one being filled, one ageing, and one being emptied, but depending on how many people are feeding into this you could need a lot more--2 years can be a long time.
The actual compost period with a hot pile can be reduced to two or three weeks if you build the pile from scratch and turn it every couple days. (1cubic yard)
The bigger piles where fresh buckets are emptied every day into the center are acting like a furnace on the interior with straw on the outside holding in the heat and odor , and the process of opening the center for fresh additions allows oxygen to enter the pile - most human pathogens can't take 120 degrees temperature for a few hours, so the actual treatment time can be dramatically reduced in a compost pile running at 135(F), a cold pile however and some of those organisms can hang on for a couple years.
If this is a B&B type situation, you really need to pay attention to the possible spread of pathogens brought in by outsiders. So even if I was going the two year route, I would especially want to put it through a hot pile before scattering it around.