Peter Ellis

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since Apr 04, 2013
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Recent posts by Peter Ellis

Anne Cummings wrote:

Joylynn Hardesty wrote:Which pattern in the you tubes? I have seen a number of configurations.

This is the improved design:

This woman is just fabulous.  How could you not love to watch her and hear her voice?

I cut the brick just like she did.  She uses sticks (just everyday sticks and pine needles) and uses it every day, for her lunch.

She is all into the pressure cooker but I am not there yet.

So far, I can't make it work.

She lives in Tennessee, USA.  So the air is about the same.

Are you following her construction and operating instructions exactly? What is your elevation? Unless you are so high that there's insufficient oxygen, that stove system should work if you are doing what she is doing and have the same set up.
Without seeing exactly what you are doing, there is no way for us to tell you where you are making a mistake.
4 days ago
You're going to need to give us more to work with. Pictures or drawings of how you are setting yours up.
Properly set up, a rocket stove pulls enough air to provide a hot, clean combustion with no additional forced air.
Reasons why one might not work generally come down to restricted air flow.  This can come from putting too much fuel into the feed tube, blocking air flow. Many designs include a grate in the feed tube to prevent this from happening, fuel goes on the grate and sir us Fred to flow underneath, then up through the fuel and out the top. The vertical flue or chimney needs to be clear enough to allow the hit air to flow. This means a pot set on top needs to be raised up enough to allow air flow.
Rocket stoves generally need a little bit of priming/ warming up to get the draft started, so you start with a small amount of fuel and warm up the stove to get the draft going, then add fuel to increase the intensity of the fire.
Helping troubleshoot your specific problem requires seeing what your setup is in detail.
4 days ago
Do you have access to youtube? A search there for "rocket stove cement blocks" brings multiple hits explaining both 4 and 2 block versions.
4 days ago
Started some King Stropharia this past spring on our site. of the three locations I inoculated, two are flushing nicely now, about five months later. One doesn't appear to be producing yet, but that's balanced by the appearance of winecap mushrooms in a location I did not inoculate Came across this thread as I was looking for ways of storing/preserving a surplus beyond our immediate consumption needs I can only eat so many in one day I haven't had to compete with slugs, I think the temperatures have dropped enough to drive them down, but the Chipmunks! Good Grief!
2 weeks ago
We had white pattipan and blue Hubbard climb right up and over a 7 foot trellis and go on for several yards on the other side. Our round zucchini didn't climb the trellis because it ran out in the opposite direction and I didn't tell it to do otherwise ;) Butternut went through a fence rather than climbing it.
Glad to hear it is going well for you.  Sounds like you're a bit further north thany wife and I. We're in Fennville, Allegan county.
1 month ago

Mike Haasl wrote:FYI, here's a OSHA type video of a barberchair accident review.  Skip to 1:58 to see an animated recreation.

I have watched that one before. I never put a saw to a tree without having first learned more about felling than that fellow ever managed to learn. Tragic, but straight up due to his own bad choices.
1 month ago

Andrew Mayflower wrote:The reason the plunge cut works for trees at risk of barber chairing is that you are leaving the strongest, most consequential fibers for last.  By the time you cut them you've already cut through the ones that would have splintered, and therefore stopped it from being able to happen.  

It's a fine line though to walk.  If you leave too much in the hinge and/or trigger it can still barber chair.  Leave too little and it can go in a weird direction.  

I'm going to quibble with your reasoning here ;) The bore cut method reduces barber chair risk for two reasons, neither being strength of fiber.
One, by not cutting the "trigger" area until the center is removed, you are holding the tree upright, not releasing it to fall.
Two, because you used the bore cut to remove wood between trigger and hinge, you are not chasing the breaking fibers of a falling tree, which can happen if you're doing a conventional back cut and essentially is what a barber chair is - the tree pulling fibers before you can cut them because it's falling too fast.

If the tree is leaning hard enough, it can pull your trigger. Which is why on some trees I use the bore cut, and once the hinge is set just go right out through the back directly, cutting fast before the tree gets to pulling.

No one has mentioned one of the major skill aspects of bore cutting, controlling kickback. When you go sticking the nose of the bar into that tree, you need to be very conscious of your kickback zone on the bar,and have solid control in case it does kick. You also want your chain nice and sharp, although that really applies all the time ;)
1 month ago