Lynn Stein wrote:I'm reviving this old thread in hopes of getting some help with a confusion I have. I live in Italy and have made a tiny little Lasagna garden, in which I hope to grow peas (with some green leafies) this next spring, and later, after growing brassica during cold season, put Nitrogen fixing green manure plants the following spring. Nitrogen fixing bacteria Inoculants are not available here in Italy (and the UK company mentioned by the previous poster sells only huge farm-appropriate quantities and does not sell via internet). I think I understand that the reason these are not widely sold in Europe, as they are in the US, is because vetches, wild peas, wild medicago and wild clover grow spontaneously here, and so the appropriate nitrogen fixing bacteria are already present in the soil. (Is that the reason? Maybe not- since there IS this one company in England making them???) Problem is, I won't be planting into good old Italian soil, but into a compost pocket made in my probably still decomposing "lasagna". I didn't put any native dirt in my "lasagna", just alfalfa, straw, green herbacous plant leaves, finished vegetable compost, and a bit of organc soy flour, seaweed flakes, and rock dust. So-- the nitrogen fixing Rhizobium won't be present. (right?) Would it work if, instead of planting into a compost pocket in the lasagna. I filled the pocket with a mix of dirt from my yard and compost? In my yard, which I have always left to grow spontaneous plants, I have seen wild vetches and wild medicago, but I don't think I've seen wild peas or clovers. (so would I still have a problem if I want to plant peas or clover and have then fix abundant nitrogen?) Also, I was thinking to sow the peas under cover, in toilet paper tubes, since I have tons of snails and slugs that would eat the sprouts, so I thought I'd sow in a seed sowing medium. But maybe for peas that isn't necessary, and I could sow in the cardboard tubes filed with native dirt and compost mix? or maybe just fill the cardboard sowing containers with yard dirt, to have greater concentration of any rhizobium nitrogen fixers that may be there?
Richard Frame wrote:
David Buchan wrote:
I once took a course in soil conservation at university where we looked at soil practices such as terracing, gully restoration an, contour farming etc. It was a long time ago but this was the text book we used (I still have it), it contains some useful info on terracing, and loads of interesting stuff for permies into earthworks or dealing with steep land (unlike me):
I'll have a look around in my old notes and PM you if I find any useful stuff?
Thank you Dave,
I followed your link and ordered the book! Amazon wanted $441.00 U.S. for it but I ordered it through a reseller for $14.95! Looks like a valuable reference book. Yes, please let me know if you find any more useful stuff. Thanks again.
Richard Frame wrote:
Adrien Lapointe wrote:
Richard Frame wrote:I'm not sure if this is the place to ask questions about the video but I was wondering about the part where Mark mentions the dangers of terracing.
This is the right place to ask the question about Mark's statement.
The way I understood it, he was saying that terraces that are not properly built are the problem.
Thank you Adrien for the response. I would have been quite shocked if Mark was opposed to all terracing. I'm sure there must be many ways to build a terrace improperly. Would you have a guess as to what kind of improperly built terrace Mark might have been referring? That is, a terrace that might get waterlogged or interfere with the hydrologic cycle. I am interested because I plan to build many terraces on at least 50 acres and want to avoid building them improperly. Thanks.
Jose Reymondez wrote:Anyone know a good place to order inoculant in Europe?
molly jones wrote:Very interesting! I'm going to do 2 blueberries in pots in my city lot and I've just discovered that my soil is around 7+ so I've been worried about how to cheaply lower the PH. I live on the coast so maybe I'll try adding a good amount of dried kelp and old cornmeal to the soil when I go to pot them.
Paul Gutches wrote:
I bought a sophisticated pH tester last year and tested just about everything I could think of while the sensor was still viable.
They only last a year or so.
I was testing the pine needle theory, coffee ground theory, and tea theory, plus lots of other stuff.
I'd mix the material with a small amount of water. I did not let it steep long, though in retrospect I probably should have.
Still, the differences in pH readings for these materials does suggest it was working.
Assuming the results are instructive, here they are.
Note in particular the corn-based kitty litter (unused). WoW. It blew away the sphagnum for acidity.
No idea how safe it is for growies, but a selling point on the product is biodegradability.
Note also the spent espresso coffee. Much lower than I'd anticipated.
You might also want to restrict your blueberry water source to (acid) rain.
fresh black tea
fresh green tea
spent medium roast coffee grounds
spent espresso coffee from local coffee shop
fresh ground dark roast (unused)
fresh ground light roast (unused)
World's best ground corn kitty litter
4.4 - 5.2 (!!!)
Well Water (700 feet down into the Taos Plateau)
Sphagnum Peat Moss
Chopped pine straw
Ace potting soil 7.5
Walmart Steer manure compost / topsoil
William Bronson wrote: I have one blue berry bush that was gifted to me, and by kids love it. It has been struggling, and I am looking for cheap amendment.
I have good source of oak leaves, are they considered acidic?
I have also been steeping all citrus discards in a 5 galleon bucket, rather than mix them with the rest of the compost. Do you think this will be a good source of acid?