William Bronson

A wise consensus has emerged!
Without a tablesaw,  I tend to avoid rip cuts, but the principle remains sound even if I use 2x4 chunks.
Come to think of it, I have some skid lumber with sections approximately 2x2, good enough.

Note, the mushroom spores evidently survived boiling and filtering to grow in an entirely foreign environment...

That there is  some bad ass fungus.

Collect all the plexiglass that gets discarded to use in coldframes and greenhouses!

I've been making stacking wooden frames from pallet wood.
So far I've used screwed butt joints,predrilled to
I want to trade the ease and simplicity of these joints for something more time consuming and complicated,  but cheaper and stronger.
My idea is to use mitered joints with screws.
The screws would be driven perpendicular to the miter.
I hope to be able to use shorter screws, fewer screws and avoid screwing into end grain.

I think might be a good trade off.
I'm already cutting the boards to length,  so cutting miters shouldn't be too much extra work.
I think I can build a jig to make driving the screws simple and easy to repeat.
I'm just not sure if the joint will be strong.

If the ground water is indeed liquid water, then its probably worth harvesting the heat from it.
DIY rigs like this often use an automotive heater core for the radiator part of such systems.
How deep you have to go to get stable temperatures is unclear.
8 feet might be enough,  30 almost certainly.
The internet is not super clear on this point, builditsolar.com has some decent but dense information.

Ground/air heat transfer through groundwater could be problematic.
If you want to go deeper,  for the heat, switching to a PEX pipe liquid based system seems in order.
Hell, the hard part of any geothermal tends to be the digging.

I'm struggling to get into this this myself.
A low impact way of starting warm season crops is winter sowing.
Winter sowing is basically sowing into plastic bottles of soil.
The bottles are left outside and act as tiny greenhouses/cold frames.
The plant growth self regulates according to what the microclimate of the bottle dictates.
The bottle is basically a harden cloche with a bottom, important for protecting against rodents and slugs.
Cold season plants can be started in the dead of winter this way, others like tomatoes and peppers need to be started in April or so, but its not clear this method will  give enough of a head start for those with short growing seasons.

Corn doesn't seem to work with winter sowing.

I think most of them are from Guatemala or Honduras and they use them to wrap their tamales in.

They also will use corn husks, unfortunately my corn failed this year, so I has none to share.

I figure If I could grow the bananas for leaves, I could trade, share and sell them and maybe the pups as well.

The fruit of truly hardy bananas is said to be inedible, though if I ever get any, I will certainly see what I can do with them before I give them to the chickens.

I'm curious do you harvests the leaves as well?
I'm considering planting cold hardy bananas for the leaves, for  my immigrants neighbors.