William Bronson

gardener
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since Nov 27, 2012
William likes ...
forest garden trees urban
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Biography
Montessori kid born and raised in Cincinnati.
Father of two, 14 years apart in age,married to an Appalachian Queen 7 years my junior,trained by an Australian cattle dog/pit rescue.
I am Unitarian who declines official membership, a pro lifer who believes in choice, a socialist, an LGBTQ ally, a Black man, and perhaps most of all an old school paper and pencil gamer.
I make, grow, and serve, not because I am gifted in these areas, rather it is because doing these things is a gift to myself.
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Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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Recent posts by William Bronson

I didnt mean to discourage your plan at all, rather quite the opposite!
My experience with coppicing/pollarding black locust   catalpa and mulberry made me warn about the potential difficulty of terminating such a tree.
I have no direct experience with alder of any kind, but a quick google indicated they were good for coppice.
That suggests they will grow back from stumps,which could be good or bad, depending on the scenario.
The source I read also said to coppice on a relatively short cycle, as trees cut at older than 10 years would not readly grow back.
If black locust is any indication of how nitrogen fixing trees grow,  a 10 + year old alder could be huge.
I chop down one particular black locust sapling every year, and t grows back strong every  year.
Based on this I have started siberian pea shrub cuttings in my tomato and cucumber beds  but NOT black locust.

Alder is clearly not locust, but it may still ressist dying on cue.

7 hours ago
Cincinnati has recently begun to experienced some negative effects of investment fund driven real estate speculation.
It's not like that are going to stop because I don't invest, but id rather not purposefully contribute to what I see as a problem.
2 days ago
Bravo Sarah!
You've used what you have to protect your investment of time and materials.
Thank you for sharing!
2 days ago
They are apparently good for coppice, so they might be hard to kill off later.
Tree roots can aggressively invade garden beds,out competing the annuals.
Some nitrogen fixers are said to do little or no fixing of nitrogen is already available, so you might not get the benifits you want.

All that said, I build raised lasagna beds right next to fruit trees.
I feed the bed annually and get no  tree roots in the annual root zones.

In your posit, I would plan on pollarding them annually,  or even continuously.
3 days ago
Benjamin, I love what you're doing there!
Do you have a deflector plate or any mass inside the oven?
4 days ago
I love throwing vegetable seed around!
My wife just brought me a bag of lentils, which I will under seed in any bed that isn't mulched.
This spring I used whole peas from the Indian grocery  store to feed the soil.
We have harvested a lot of greens for the rabbit, and a handful of peapods, while leaving roots in otherwise bare soil.

I feed my chooks everything, including tons of dumpster produce.Because of this my favorite weed is the tomatoes that pop up wherever I've used chicken compost.
They WILL overwelm most annual vegetables , so I transplant them in and among the perennials, along with green onions grown from scraps, that are currently going to seed.

1 week ago
Love it, what a score!
Most of the "soil" in my beds is made up of decayed leaves.
I compost them overwinter,right on the top of last years soil and the worms love it.
1 week ago
I've been wondering how to build an olla "trough".
It would run the length of a raised bed and kept full with a float valve.
I think some variation on ferrocement might work this.
1 week ago
I think they should be great.
I use pallets and it lasts for years,maybe because it can dry to the outside and there are gaps between the boards as well.
The pallets deck boards are only about 1/2" thick.
The one bed I built of 2x4 are in worse shape than older pallet beds.

Recently I've built a pallet bed and lined it with tile, which might make the pallets last longer, or maybe not.
A water impervious surface pressed against the wood could accelerater decay more than soil does.

In your situation, I would build with the 4x 4 posts outside of the soil holding section and I would leave an inch between each 1x board.
If a boatd rots, add another board over it, with some aluminum flashing in between the two.
I'm curious, wouldn't poison ivy be just as big a problem for a  sugar maples forest?
If so, maybe plant a timber crop instead?

I don't see a way to keep it poison ivy free without any work, but repeated mowing followed by deep woodmulch could make foe a wonderful place to grow anything.
If you leave a mowable perimeter, you would still need to police the inner area for seedlings from bird droppings.
2 weeks ago