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Marty Mac

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since Dec 17, 2017
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Recent posts by Marty Mac

Thank you all for taking the time to respond!

Buildings are the main culprit of casting shade.  I think my neighbors would frown upon the idea of me trimming there garage back.

I have looked into the copper based off the shelf treatment. I have to admit all the warnings on the labels made me wonder why on earth I would put it any where near some thing I want to eat.

As I said before I tried the baking soda solution with out any luck. I didn't mention that before I applied the solution I trimmed back any branch that had a hint of yellow. Not just the leaf but the whole branch back to the main stalk. I did my best to work from the bottom up and remove the infected branches with out touching healthy branches. Said branches went in a trash can and where disposed of. I did this dance about every 3 days for about 3 weeks. I grow my tomatoes against a 6 foot wire fence panel that I let them climb. They are over 6 feet tall but the poor things have no branches for the first 3 feet. They are all but dead now, and the few tomatoes on the vine the squirrel's have been taking before they even start to ripen.

So of all the suggestions given so far I think containers may be the best fit for me.  I plan on moving in a year or 2 so I just cant justify any major soil removal and most every thing besides the tomatoes seem to be doing very well.

I was thinking 5 gallon buckets placed in the same spot. Am I just asking for problems?  If the buckets are partially buried to help with retaining water and regulate temperature lets say one foot of bucket showing above the ground.

How high can fungus jump? :)
2 months ago

My urban garden has been consistently productive for most of the last 20 years.  Gardening in the city means I have just one small area that has sufficient sun light. So I have ignored the rule of rotating my tomato crop and the tomatoes  get the sweet spot in the garden every year.  Well blight finally caught up to me. Last year I noticed a little spotting and leaf curl and when I came back from a 2 week vacation my tomatoes were  all but dead. I removed all the tomatoes from the garden and added 6 to 8 inches of wood chips in the fall. This year I planted as usual just moving the chips enough to plant and then replacing the chips without touching the plants.
You guest it, my blight problem is still a problem. I have been spraying a mix of baking soda water and a drop of dish soap on both the top and bottom of the leaves and the wood chips as well. All for nothing, again my tomatoes are all but dead.

Is there any way to rid the soil of the fungus so maybe next year I can grow some tomatoes?
2 months ago
I have no idea how deep your well is, but I still have my doubts on the volume of air  and the amount of time needed to exchange heat.
But the idea  of pulling water up and cycling it through a large truck radiator while blowing a fan across it might work well.  If you had a use for the water once it was drawn up. Irrigation?  If not it may be more cost effective just to run a small AC unit instead of the well pump and a fan.
3 months ago
Hi Colin,

My tiny house is 144 sq ft, average ceiling height 9 ft. lets call it 1300 cubic ft of air. That is being generous and not subtracting space of furniture cabinets etc etc. 1 foot of 4 inch pipe has a volume of about 150 cubic inches. I have about 100 feet of pipe, giving me  15000 cubic inches of underground air. Convert that back to cubic feet gets me around 8.5 cubic feet of air.  That 8.5 is just a drop in the bucket when mixed in to the 1300 cubic ft of air in the tiny house. And unfortunately I haven't even factored in the time  the air needs to stay underground to have any chance of cooling let alone dehumidifying.
As I stated before math is NOT my thing but feel free to check my work and play with the calculators yourself.

If you come up with an idea for a under ground radiator that could multiply the effect please share!
3 months ago
This is the topic that google first brought me to Permies way back when.

There are calculators on line that will allow you to find out how many cubic feet of underground air you need and how long it must remain underground to reach a given temperature. Then multiply that by the cubic feet of air you wish to cool. I am absolutely not a math student, math is HARD!

My plan was to build a tiny home on a 8x20 foot trailer and once on site in the Ozarks build a 4 foot crawl space basement under it. Kind of A mini split level house. the basement being cut into the side of a hill. My thought was placing the 4inch tubes around the foundation and on out into a raised garden bed. That gave me about 130 feet of under ground 4 inch pipe. About 100 feet of that pipe is over 4 feet deep.  It works very well to preheat outside air to replace air lost up the woodstove during the winter. That is a relatively slow draw and my guess is the air stays in the tube for 3 or 4 minutes before coming inside. It also works well to allow me to use a kitchen and or bath exhaust fan without the wood stove creating a back draft.  However once a fan is put to work any pre heating or pre cooling is gone in about a minute. So as a controlled fresh air inlet it is a resounding success!  As a air conditioner an utter failure.

You don't happen to have a fairly large natural cave on your land do you? If you could get close to the same volume of air underground as you have above ground the dehumidifying effect could  work.

 From my reading on the subject this works better in a desert type setting. Once you add southern US humidity things get much harder.
7 months ago
Welcome Jenn!

I have a small place close to the Buffalo as well. I have been Part time homesteading for about 12 years now. I built a tiny house here in my driveway and moved it on to the land in 2015.  I spend my vacation time setting the place up for my retirement. I have managed to plant dozens of fruit trees, berries and perennials, some have even managed to survive! It can be a little  frustrating to plant some thing and care for it for a week or two then leave it to fend for itself.  Over all I am having better luck than I had hoped for,  If we don't count all the fruit trees I have left to die alone in the woods. I hope to finish my barn in the next 2 years and make the move in 2023.

I really got lucky with my closest neighbor he is a homesteader from the back to the land movement of the 70s and has been one of my biggest cheerleaders. I really need to make the time to take him up on his offers of getting to know some of his friends. The few that I have met are just plain fun! And it so very encouraging to know that the local people have welcomed newcomers to the area that just want to live a simple life!  
7 months ago
It has been mentioned, and in my eyes it may be a sin. How ever Bacon grease will do the trick. It also will talk dogs and other critters to dig up a partially roted stump.

I can think of so many things I would rather use bacon grease for but hey ya gotta do what ya gotta do!

After you get your bacon fat I don't think you would have any problem giving your waste product to a neighbor or friend.  Think of the welcome to the nieghborhood gift of fresh cooked bacon. You could immediately rise to Saint Pearl!
7 months ago
Greg Left to right.Hickory, Walnut, Shag bark Hickory, Red Oak, Hickory, Red Oak and White Oak.

Please don't make me guess all the Red oak flavors, I had no idea there were so many until I started talking to my neighbor in Arkansas.
7 months ago
Just a guess based on the bark and growth pattern.

I'm going to go with some flavor of willow on your post John.
7 months ago