Garth Wunsch

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since Jun 09, 2017
Dad gave me my first very own garden plot at age ten and I’ve been gardening ever since.  I’m 76!
Been no-till for eight years now.
Sudbury, Ontario Zone 4b
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Recent posts by Garth Wunsch

Harvesting my first Winecaps. Some had a few worm holes, but happily these huge ones were worm free. The worms are coming in from the root, not off the cap because as I slice crossways, the infestation gets less. I cooked up a mess last night from Paul Stamets video linked above. OMG… slathered on homemade sourdough toast, with fresh lemon garlic asparagus… and Paul’s requisite 100 ml good red wine!!! The tiny ones are so darn cute…
P.S. if there’s only the occasional worm, then I just fry them up and give thanks for the free protein… many cultures still survive on grubs, worms, etc…
1 month ago
I’m a student at Dr. Elaine’s Soil Foodweb school. Next section in my course is microscopy. I purchased a Swift SW380T and it does all the course asks. Microbe Hunter gives it a good rating.
I too wear glasses and have seriously different prescriptions in each eye, and only one eye works at a time. Your old issue of a dark halo was likely due to having the aperture closed too much. Open the aperture and turn down the light intensity.
7 months ago
Well…. Dr. Ingham is absolutely neurotic about CLEAN. I’m one of her students!!!

I have a DeWalt backpack sprayer, but without settings, so I just use the biggest nozzle available without using the inline filter thingy. So far no issues. I don’t strain going into the sprayer (it has a coarse filter in the fill lid) but I’m careful to make sure my tea brewer is free of any foreign materials prior to the brew. So far so good. My tea bag is a paint strainer from the hardware store.
11 months ago
I’m new to bokashi, but my research says there shouldn’t be much leachate. I’m adding fairly dry materials, but the process in and of itself will create a bit of leachate. You need to be VERY careful with this anaerobic material. You have anaerobic bacteria and you’re feeding them to multiply. I wouldn’t do that. Probably the best thing to do would be to thinly spread it onto a compost heap “reserve” that will become part of the brown for your next thermophilic pile. Anaerobes are disease generators, and that includes human pathogens. The only way to know if you’ve converted to all aerobic bacteria is to use a microscope, and then you need to know what you’re looking at. Two days ago we were consulting on a farm and found our very first spirilla… OUCH! You don’t ever want to see these critters in your compost.

IF   You’re going to feed, then use only a TINY (even less than that) bit of unsulphured blackstrap molasses.
11 months ago
The best “solution” I’ve found for invasive grass is to dig a trench about 10” deep between grass and garden. The rhizomes seem to run near the surface, so are air pruned at the trench… seems to be working so far - two years in.
I’m a student of Dr. Elaine Ingham’s Soil Food Web. Learning what to do with what weeds, and more importantly, why they’re even there in the first place, is enlightening, to say the least. Weeds are part of “plant succession”. Prior to Dr. E’s teaching, I’ve been no-till for ten years. I mulch with leaves and straw (whenever it’s free) and my soil has NO compaction (tested with penetrometer). My 1500 sq ft garden has almost ZERO weeds, and I always attributed it to the mulch and spending five minutes a week on a weed walkabout, removing any that dared poke their head above the soil. Without trying to elaborate on her entire lessons, weeds proliferate in disturbed and fertilized soil because that provides Nitrate... weed food...having proper no-till practices and healthy soil biology provides ammonium... plant food.

In general, she teaches to leave weeds be as living mulch, unless they’re going to outcompete your crop for light. When annual weeds need to be removed, they are always cut, never pulled, leaving the roots... and carbon, in the soil. The one weed I am diligent about keeping at bay is Scotch/Twitch/quack/crab grass... whatever it’s called in your area. It has to be gently teased from the soil or it will regenerate from every broken root. Even noxious perennials can be killed by cutting instead of pulling, but one must be diligent to keep the green chopped off... eventually the root starves to death!
If you paid money for this "compost", demand your money back. It has gone anaerobic and as such can actually harm your plants. It has been poorly composted without sufficient oxygen or time. Even compost with a proper carbon:nitrogen ratio will go anaerobic/ammonia smell if it is not properly aerated. It is acidic and will promote weed growth. The soil microbiology you expected, (healthy bacteria and fungi) is not there. I comment as a student of Dr. Elaine Ingham's Soil Food Web School. Have a look at some of her YouTube lectures. Making GOOD compost is high level art and science. I am spending several thousand dollars learning those lessons. #enlightening  Contact Dr. Elaine through her website and ask to be put in touch with someone near who who has graduated her course and is making BioComplete compost, extracts and teas. It will be worth every penny you spend.
1 year ago
Eliminating one bag may not seem like much, but there are 35,000,000 Canadians, and if we each eliminate one bag per week... that’s 1,820,000,000 bags. Often we see our actions as insignificant because we are only one drop in a bucket, but you fill a bucket one drop, one bag, at a time.
1 year ago

Dennis Bangham wrote:I just completed a Jumbo compost bin for my future orchard.  Cattle panels used here 16 ft by 4 ft by 4 foot.  Should last me a while.

Are you not concerned about this going anaerobic? You have LOTS of beautiful wood chips. Have you considered a Johnson-Su Bioreactor setup. It will make an aerobic fungal rich compost, which is precisely what an orchard needs.
1 year ago