Steve Shantz

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since Dec 28, 2015
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Goshen, IN
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Recent posts by Steve Shantz

Ronald, I considered making it electrically powered but it gets substantially more complex and expensive with many points of failure. Having said that, I will now contradict myself...
I am considering an attachment on the front end that would drill 4 holes in the ground for planting onion starts and garlic cloves. That would get me much farther along in my desire to go no-till with my onions and garlic. In the past I've toyed with no-till onions and garlic and it hasn't worked because my soil is too compact. (I'm working on that problem too.)
And now imagine a 5 gallon tank of urine that could deliver a shot into each hole when planting. Now we are talking low-tech precision agriculture. Put the fertilizer exactly where it is needed!
I confess that for me, half of the fun is in the design-build process. I fully acknowledge that more sophisticated equipment may not necessarily meet my intentions (as the pee slowly drips on my head from a leak in the system!)
2 years ago
I do have a headrest, and the cart clearance is high enough that I can go over my almost mature onion patch with no damage to the plants.
As for mobility, I designed it to straddle my 24" wide beds and be high enough to work at a comfortable arms length. Pushing on the ground with my feet doesnt work. I have a double treadle design I'm toying with that should make it easy to move down the rows. It is geared to be easy to peddle, with one revolution of the crank moving me 6" down the bed, which is my plant spacing.
I also have plans for an adjustable removable shelf under me. It could be used to keep garlic cloves and onion starts while planting, or strawberry boxes when picking strawberries.
2 years ago
Jay and Ben, you are both very correct. There is no way pedals can work. I used a poor description of what I'm planning to do. I'm wanting to have two pieces that my lower legs push on,  with connecting rods to the crank. Yes, somewhat like two treadle mechanisms. I also want to modify the platform I lay on to allow an adjustable angle at my hips. Flat as a pancake is a bit tiring for hours on end.

2 years ago
I built this last winter and I'm finding it incredibly useful in my 100'x 50' garden. I grow alot of garlic and onions for a local food pantry and I'm trying to give my 62 year old back a break.
I've attached a photo.
The front wheels steer like a car. One thing that is unfinished is to finish off the back end so that I can propel it with my feet.

I have two videos about this on Google Drive. On my device I need to download before I can play it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S6s9r8xgqAVjpt6FOhSdyL-lFi981I-R/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S7TEhqxSzaoWphye3bqOEhme0g2ma10k/view?usp=drivesdk
2 years ago
I'm late to this post, but I'd like to let you know about my rocket burner maple syrup boiler. I use 5 stainless cafeteria pans, the deep ones, side by side. Each is suspended over a rocket chimney, inside a well insulated concrete box. The chimneys are 8" ID and the fire boxes are 8" w x 10" h x 24" l. I can easily boil 12 gph if I use thoroughly dried wood and keep the fires well tended. The temperature at the top of the chimney is 1620 degrees F, no baffle under the pan. No caramelization ever, and the syrup is nice and light. I ladle the sap from pan to pan, collecting the concentrated sap in the bottom pan to finish inside. I designed the pans so that each one is 3/4" lower than the previous so that I could siphon from level to level but the boiling action seems to mess with the siphons. The rig burns virtually smoke free unless I over-fire it, at which point I can get a 2' tongue of fire coming out the smoke stack. I've used it two seasons now, and I'm only seeing minor cracking in the insulated castable refractory (ICF) chimneys, but this is because the ICF shrinks on curing, and cracks formed in the molds.

It hardly needs saying that rocket burners are THE way to go because they burn clean and efficient. My first boiler had the pans hanging over an insulated fire box. The fire could never burn hot and clean, and pans got coated with creosote, LOTS of smoke. This year I'd like to try some smoke stack heat recovery, although I'm mot sure how well that will work. The hot stack is necessary to get a good draft. I'd also like to try putting air- water heat exchangers over the pans to use the steam to preheat the sap. We'll see how that goes.

Here is a video if you are interested:


I hope this is helpful.
8 years ago