Rocket Mass Heater Plans: Annex 6" L-shaped Bench by Ernie and Erica
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gabriel munteanu

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since Jun 25, 2015
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Romania, zone 5b equivalent in usa
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Recent posts by gabriel munteanu


I read here: that it is edible, but it doesn't say when is the best time to pick it and cook it. Does anybody have any experience with it?
In the image attached you can see the status of my turkish rocket today.

5 years ago
Hi all,
I am considering planting this ivy as a living mulch in my garden. It is a low growing plant, it covers the ground, the roots are shallow, they take care of the weeds, in the winter they keep the soil microorganisms alive.
When I need to plant a tomato, I cut the ivy around the hole and make sure it doesn't crawl on it.
I also heard that it won't flower and make berries if it lies on the ground, only when it climbs on a tree - I will also make sure of that too, so that it won't be spreading in the wild.
What do you think?
6 years ago
Here's an update on my perennial cover crop project. I have been at a loss as what would be my first step. When I wrote the initial post, I thought that planting the right perennials, their deep roots would break the compacted soil. Now I am not so sure any more.
For example, here:  
 , she says that if the roots do not run deep, then the nature tells us that we have compacted soil, and we need to address that problem. The solution is compost, and the micro-organisms in it. From other movie that I couldn't find to place the link here, I know she sais that we must inoculate the soil at compaction depth with that compost, and the life there would break it and give it structure so the roots can then grow below.
However, I know that the micro life in the compost cannot live without root exudates.
It's like that story, who was first, the egg or the hen?
Should I put the root first, then the bacteria and fungae would appear and flourish, breaking compaction along the way, and the root will go deeper and deeper, together with the life around it [that's something that I would prefer.]?
Or, I should first make compost, inoculate the soil with it, then add the root - from here videos it seems that most of us get the compost pile wrong, and we should be very scientific about that process?
7 years ago
I have watched a few youtube movies about Dr. Elaine Ingham and soil food web. In there, she says that, if we have lots of life in soil, we should have great plants above, too.
That's something we all know, for sure, however, I was intrigued about her way of achieving this.
She talks about perennial cover crops, plants that are evergreen if possible, with deep roots, and small height above the ground. This way the bacteria & fungi is always fed.
Also, these deep roots, will create good soil deep underground, decompacting it.
There is a list here: but it is about low grow plants.
Is there a list somewhere of deep rooted plants that can go through compacted soil, preferably perennial too?
Does anybody know a few plants that are suitable for this job?

7 years ago

John Wolfram wrote:Does anyone know why white clover is not on that list? It seems to be the one low growing cover crop that's readily available at any rural/gardening store in Indiana...and it usually comes with a cool picture of a deer on the bag.

It is now on her page: Ctrl-F for Trifolium repens (Dutch White Clover) Zones 3-10. Height: 3-5" here:
7 years ago
Here is a good explanation of how nitrogen goes from 1 plant to another:

7 years ago
My question was a general one, what to do with the summer mulch when winter approaches.
However, in my particular case, I do indeed have a fungal problem on my young cherry trees.
I identified it as "Coryneum blight" [Shot Hole]. see my pictures attached. [EDIT: A friend said it could also be bacterial: Xanthomonas pruni]
I also have attached a picture of my hay mulch around the tree, and what I have inside the mulch ring - near the base of the trunk [I see 4 white mushrooms, exactly as @Marco said that I should be happy about].
In the mulch picture, the cherry tree has no leaves, they all have fallen in august due to the disease, the leaves you see in the other photo are from another cherry tree.
The mulch idea was that if I pump up lots of micro life and nutrients from this mulch, the cherry tree would heal itself.
7 years ago
Thank you for your response,
It seems logical to remove the summer mulch and replace it with a new one, indeed.
Here are a few issues that I see, though:
- I have living comfrey nearby the tree, too (inside the mulch ring), as part of the fruit tree guild, along with other plants. They are dead, or will be dead soon. Do I remove them too? They are nearest to the tree, so, actually, here will be the most pathogen preparing to overwinter. On all channels, when they say comfrey is good, they specify that when it dies, it gets incorporated into the soil, and helps the tree. Removing it, at the end of autumn, voids this argument.
- In lots of youtube videos, the chop&drop method is praised, saying you just chop something [black locust young branches in my case] and drop them near the fruit tree, then forget about them. It will be a great addition to the soil near your tree. Taking it away seems that it is not something those people do. They seem to imply that the branches would decompose there.
- During the summer, lots of good insects like spiders, but also other wild life, made a home inside the mulch. They also made preparations to winter in there. Taking it away to the compost bin seems a bit harsh on them and not the permaculture way.
EDIT: my mulch consists of hay.
7 years ago
Hi everybody,
Over the summer I had mulch around the tree, at a distance of 10 inches from the trunk, in a circle. It is made up of hay, and partly of bark wood.
Now, I wanted to keep it over the winter too, to let it decompose in place. However, a friend of mine told me that the lots of fungi and bacteria from the fruit tree leaves will be able to overwinter in the mulch.
If I will remove the mulch, the cold will kill most of them.
But, in all permaculture tutorials that I read, it says that the mulch does lots of good to the tree, keeps it warm in winter and so on.
Should I remove the summer mulch and add a new mulch? and if so, when exactly? I don't want to add too early so that the disease attaches to my new mulch, but also not too late.
Can you give me some advice?
7 years ago