Peter B. Onde wrote:An outdoor wood furnace is an option. It's expensive though. And while living in a place where weather doesn't cooperate in regards to keeping wood dry during transport. Hence it's necessary to have a large firewood storage in the same building as the heater. (That way the heater also helps drying the firewood.)
What I really want is a DIY outdoor furnace, clean burning with firewood storage.
Heating the greenhouse, I'm sure the RMH will do fine. It's even possible to build the heater house next to the greenhouse so that the barrel gets inside the greenhouse. The challenge will be to get most of the heat into the mass under the house - that's where most of the energy is needed.
I'm thinking of various ways to achieve that - getting more energy into the circulating water than into the room where the heater is. One way would be to cover the barrel within a coil og waterpipes. (Putting the pipes inside the barrel I think will be too hot for the piping.) Then I could put isolation outside the coil. But then the barrel probably will be overheated. One way to deal with that problem could be to NOT use a metal barrel, but rather build a "barrel" of firebricks. Then make a coil of piping around and over this "brickbarrel", and lots of isolation outside this. This may introduce another issue - In a regular RMH he barrel has a cooling effect on the exhaust. This effect may be crucial to the airflow through the burn chamber. How can that be solved? Maybe by using a metal barrel without top at the bottom and extend with a "brickbarrel" on top of that?
Does anyone have experience with isolating the barrel of a RMH? Or stacking two barrels on top of each other? How did this affect the heater?
Peter B. Onde wrote:I'd like to have a batchbox RMH. But I'm afraid that something will fail someday. So is the insurance company - if the house burns down as a result of not using a certified fireplace, they will not cover.
Travis Johnson wrote:
I think the absolute best sustainable way to power a radiant floor heating system is compost heat..
LuAnne Welch wrote:
I stayed with the six inch system, (thinking now I should migrate to 8"). The foundation consists of 1 inch of marble, 1 inch of dura-board rated at 2300 degrees and then a layer of 2.5 firebrick.
During the first trial I noticed the dura-board didn't stand up to the fire inside like I thought it would and scraping out the ash damaged it. So I went with #2 firebrick to line the firebox. As you can see from the pictures, the main changes I made are I made the riser 48 inches instead of the 32 I had before. I thought this would help with the draft. On the manifold I started with an 8 inch outlet for two feet then reduced the ducting to 6 inches the rest of the way. I modified the ducting so that I only have three bends instead of the previous 5 and increased the chimney to 23 feet (its all I can support).
I fired it up, and draft is no longer an issue. The problem now is I'm not getting any heat from the barrel. The temp in the firebox will reach up to 1850, but thus far the best I can get at the top of the barrel is 450 - 500. Now I'm really confused. The temp above the Tee in the chimney never got above 100, and the burn is so complete that after a day of burning wood, all that remained was less then 3/4 cup of ash. There is no smoke appearing at the top of the chimney when it got to 500. So the question to be asked is where does all the heat go from the firebox to the top of the barrel. Surely and extra foot of riser would not dissipate the heat that fast.