Glenn Bundesen

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since Jul 15, 2014
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Recent posts by Glenn Bundesen

Anthony Troia wrote:Yeah, it works well.  We use it in our RMH.  It must be split before burning, or the culms act like little chimneys.  It burns extremely hot and fast.  

Try running it through rollers to crush it.  It doesn't need to be split, just have the integrity of the culms broken.
1 year ago
First, I apologize for necro'ing a 6 year old thread.

I ran across mention of two additives to an Alker type mix that would extend the working time before it set up.
IIRC it was-
15% calcined gypsum (plaster of paris)
2.5% hydrated lime
1.66% Molasses (yes, apparently it's also used as an additive in portland cement based concretes as well)
0.833%  Calcium Lignosulphonate (to Plaster of Paris dry wt)

Working time before it sets up is around 2 hours 15 minutes.  
Should produce a brick that has about 620 psi on a crush test, or about double adobe.

I'm wondering about pouring walls with it using slip forms.  If I make the height of the forms twice the height of a pour I should be able to leapfrog the form up the wall as the "bottom" pour has set up but while the "top" pour is still workable, thus preventing and "cold" joints.  Or so I'm thinking....

3 years ago
I'm fairly new to permiculture so the observation I'm about to make may be off base, but I'd be a bit concerned about where you have the swales in relation to your home....specifically your partial basement. IIRC, swales will stop/slow surface runoff and let it soak deeply into the ground. Excellent for plant life, but not so wonderful if that water ends up penetrating your basement or crawlspace.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge then I will chime in about this. My concern is that if the swale does end up causing flooding/moisture problems under your home it may not occur until long after you've planted them and if the swales need to be moved you'll have lost the time and effort.

6 years ago