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Dominik Riva

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since Jul 01, 2014
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forest garden fungi rabbit
Haut-Rhin, France
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Recent posts by Dominik Riva

I'm a Linux admin by profession (at least 20% of what I do at work) and use it on the desktop since 20 years as my main driver.
If you need help or have a question just shot me a message.

2 years ago
Well rayon is cellulose so should be broken down by the mushrooms like the cotton but the others I don't know what will be left. It all depends on the enzymes the mushroom produces and I read that suggests the mushroom can be trained to feed on different materials.
2 years ago
As long as there are no heavy metals or radio active elements involved, my guess is the fruits are safe to eat.
The long molecule chains of the synthetics get broken apart and rebuild by enzymes into molecules need by the mushroom. If this process was not equivalent to say decomposing lignin or cellulose then the mushroom itself would be in big trouble.
2 years ago
If I remember correctly button mushrooms are secondary composers.
So they would grow on your finished compost and or aged animal manure.

Right now I have started a button mushroom kit that looks like gray cobwebs on straw and black compost that needs some added water and gets put on top.
The mycelium has grown through the compost and looks white against the black. I expect pins in about a week.

When the kit is finished I will mix it with finished compost in the garden.

A friends dad got a permanent button mushroom colony established near his compost heap in this way.

No, it will not take over the whole garden as there are other interested parties that will make sure it will stay in it's ideal niche if at all - there is constant war going on out there and your role is to play faith for trillions of organisms.
2 years ago
I like to add gypsum and some woody material (spend hemp straw form the gerbils and the like) to the spend coffee grounds. What is you humidity? I got a similar look when I had too dry conditions in the room.
2 years ago

Chris Kott wrote:I think I will be going with the clean-room setup when I go for this. It is a project for after the move out of the city, where I will actually have a room to use this way.

I don't see the logic in not going the clean-room route. I mean, I would do all the same things as if I was simply sterilising the containers. The room would just be an added barrier to contamination, and a layer of protection between my living/working space and mushroom growing.

You need to sterilise the room before you open the grow containers anyways.

There is a distinction between an clean-room and a fruiting room. The fruiting room will get filled with spores of your desired mushrooms and the clean-room needs to be devoid of any mushrooms as this is the only way to control what you are growing.
A clean-room does not need to be permanent structure as in its minimal form it can be a dust free room with a still air box to work in. The next level is using a laminar flow to work in front of.

You don't need to sterilize the room before you expose fully colonized blocks for fruiting - the last stage is quite forgiving. Clean practice is advised in a fruiting room but nothing compared to the ritualistic levels needed for a clean-room.
There is a reason mostly big labs have actual clean-room. The time it takes only to get through the airlocks is crazy. Most labs use a laminar flow hood.

2 years ago
Keeping the mycelium in the bag/bucket protects it a bit if the humidity is below ideal.

If you got your humidity levels dialed in, I would advice you to experiment and do a trial to figure out how your strain reacts to the different conditions.
Changing such variables can have very different results on different strains.

Also with the buckets and bags you could get longer stems because of a possible higher CO2 concentration inside of the container.
As for the humidity,  CO2 can also be controlled for the whole room.

I don't think you will get smaller mushrooms as I get a lot of pins but not every hole produces a dominant cluster. So with a free block I predict you still get the dominant clusters.
The next variable could be volume/surface ratio. If it is adversarial to free small blocks it could be necessary for big blocks.
2 years ago
Perhaps but if you only pasteurize not sterilize the medium I would start fruiting.
Multiplication needs to happen sterile or a high percentage will spoil with mold and bacteria.

You can't keep the grain spawn for long to do multiple batches as every opening brings the risk of contamination.
Storage time in the fridge is also not indefinite.

Work in one batch but put the first portions into sterilized mason chars with grain - use the new grain spawn to do the next batches.
Do the transfers in a still air box.
2 years ago
I'm not sure if I understand you right.

Some principles may help answer your question anyway:

  • Colonize in stages to minimize contamination.
  • Transfer to the next medium before the mycelium has depleted the nutrients - this will inhibit premature fruiting.
  • Never mix sterilized medium with the next stage/medium/substrate - mix colonized medium with the next stage/medium/substrate.

  • A typical chain form spore to production looks like this:

  • Spore print
  • Petri dish
  • Petri dish
  • Petri dish
  • Petri dish - pure strain is archived and samples get labeled and archived in a fridge
  • liquid culture - optional
  • grain
  • grain
  • grain
  • Masters Mix / straw / coffee grounds / wood chips / What ever the fungi can eat

  • Some additional hints for the chain above:

  • toss the strains form your archive that didn't do well for you
  • proven strains go from archive fridge to Petri dish from there you fork them back to archive but increase the p-number and to production via grain
  • if production with high p-number strains get weak go back to lower p-numbers of the same strain to refresh the vigor
  • refresh strains in the archive fridge at regular intervals and have a backup off premise

  • In all of this steps except the spore print the medium needs to be sterilized - Aluminum foil is practically sterile from the heat of production.
    The last stage is often sterile but not always as some contamination at the last stage can get easily overwhelmed by the mass of mycelium added - especially if robust fungi like oyster mushrooms are used but can easily reduce yield.
    Straw or wood chips or fresh spend coffee grounds get often pasteurized or in the case of coffee ground come pasteurized.
    Transfers need to happen as sterile as possible (flow hood or still air box).
    The better your sterile practice the more you can dilute the mycelium in the next medium - in the Petri dish stages you always want to get the least amount of material to the the next Petri dish to purify the strain as fast as possible.

    Good luck with your business
    2 years ago

    Bryant RedHawk wrote:

    Those containers can be set up to work for growing mycelium and with well thought out holes for the fruits to exit they would make good, reusable containers for growing mushrooms.
    You would need to have them in a room set up similar to a clean room to prevent contamination of the growing medium though.


    I would advice against the holes and clean room.
    It is way easier to keep the contents of the containers sterile then a room.
    Install some filter ports for spore free gas exchange - polyfill or cellulose filter disks.

    Use the resulting containers to colonize the medium and if pins form dump the block on a rack in a fruiting room - not a clean room but high humidity and ideally HEPA filtered blower
    that pumps air into the room to produce over pressure.
    Be careful not to push the spores from the fruiting room into living quarters and please wear a mask in there as you will get allergic to the spores over time if you don't.
    2 years ago