Joshua Myrvaagnes

pollinator
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since Mar 20, 2014
Joshua likes ...
kids purity trees urban writing
Connected or reconnected. Fit with the right cycles and in the right season. Nourished and nurtured with natural energy. Aware of place and part.
Student of nature's intelligence and permaculture, want to live in community, teach human movement with my hands, in light of F. M. Alexander's discoveries.
Ask me about drL, the rotational-mob-grazing format for human interactions.
Massachusetts, 5a, flat 4 acres; 40" year-round fairly even
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Recent posts by Joshua Myrvaagnes

Anne Miller wrote:I am not sure if this was related to permaculture though to me it would.

Send the puppy to school for Obedience Training unless you feel qualified to do that.

You will still need to potty train your puppy and teach the puppy manners.

Obedience training is taking it a step further by teaching you how to handle your dog while teaching the dog basic commands, how to behave, and how to get skills to be around other people and animals.

There may be special training, especially for LGD though I am not aware of these.  

May be our LGD owner will know.



Thanks Anne.  I'm trying to cut costs and I don't think I trust a school to do what I need, plus separating the dog from our land feels unnatural and off to me.  I am willing if it needs to be, but I would like to avoid it.  
12 hours ago
Found a great answer--on Walter Jeffries' site, sugar mountain farm:

https://sugarmtnfarm.com/2007/08/02/lgd-expectations/

He also goes into myths about LGDs, breeds, etc.  I think we might pick up a stray dog and add it to our crew for free, after reading this I think we might have been able to save a ton of money.

The trick about running a cable over the land and a long leash off that is brilliant!  And walking the perimeter with the dog daily is what I instinctively was thinking to do anyway.  Thanks walter!
12 hours ago
There's a lot of information out there, but I don't know how much is true.  And I find a lot of times it is based on thinking and perspectives that aren't aligned with mine, and end up costing a lot of money and then lead to problmes that cost more money.

That's why I love Fukuoka's philosophy so much--"don't do it"--and Sepp Holzer's.  

But neither of them discusses LGD's (livestock guardian dogs), and as far as I know Holzer just doesn't need any raccoon-defenders, doesn't have coyotes, etc.  Wolves not a problem? I don't know.  He was interested in them when he met a Great Pyr but had been fine without them.  Is it just the Sepp Holzer magic? is it that moving the chicken's shelter frequently enough throws predators off the scent? what about hawks, weasels, etc.?  I read that leaving big weeds for chickens to hide under works--but ducks, well. . .they like to be Fukuoka-like and not just do something, sit there.  I'm gonna have ducks and 2 geese.  I am skeptical of the geese's ability to defend against hawks.

And we have a LGD puppy coming on Wednesday (more her idea than mine, but I do really want to go the LGD route over all in the long term, and you gotta start before you need them, while they grow up).

There's meat, and then there's the whole fencing thing.  They say get an electric fence and let them get one shock from it so they learn (seems cruel--I can see doing that to a raccoon but to someone you want to be your best friend for life??). And then the other source says never use any negative training (shock, punishment).  

It's a gampr, supposed to be even more intelligent than Great Pyr or karakachan.  Large enough to take on some wolves.  (Again, this wasn't specifically my idea, but it's the situation now).

I also feel totally unready to be a dog father or a duck dad.  ("Make him an offer he can't refuse.").  

What is a permaculture approach to this?

Are there junkpoles for junkpole fencing in the east somewhere that I dont' know about? I've never seen them, and I don't know what term to serach for them by.

For now I do have some pig fencing, and a leash, so the puppy isn't in immediate danger of hightailing it to the big city and going down a spiral of booze and cocaine. What reading do you suggest or what outside-the-old-box appraoches do you find work for you?

What is a permaculture approach to this?  Thanks much.
15 hours ago
Thanks for posting, and you will always have your 60 badge bits no matter where you are!

You help me feel grateful for what I have here.  It's been more struggle than I'd been looking for, but way easier than your situation.

15 hours ago
sending lots of support from up north.
15 hours ago
sorry i haven't read the whole thread, but I still want things to move forward with code more, and so I'm more interested in the book than this movie.  I may back it anyway because I love the work you do, but my self-interest is more in getting better designs legalized so my neighbors can be interested in doing this.  I wish I could say right now that it's a no-brainer to put in a legal, code-approved rmh, but at the moment I find the one I have just a bit underwhelming, and I think it's mainly because the code limits things.  No criticism of the Liberator folks, it just seems like I need to be allowed a stratification chamber to really keep heat in the mass, or I need more than 12' of pipe length and to be able to ignore the 18" clearance to combustables through the [obviously heat-retardant] mass.  

If this video can help change the code people's minds, educating them about what a rocket mass heater really is and how safe it is, that's what I want to support.

That's also my suggestion for the script--change "the main problem is knowledge" to something that implies that "knowledge" also includes that the Code doesn't "know" how safe and health-of-all-of-us-conducive this is (that's the point of the code overall, isn't it? to keep us safe? not to save us from our houses collapsing only to have our ecosystems collapse instead).  

Maybe this nuance can be communicated with an image on that shows a code inspector pointing and cross-faced and an image of a code person whose face says "This is the first wood stove that isn't a flaming death trap!" And a thought bubble of how they're gonna go home and build one themselves.  Eureka.

I know you always run successful kickstarters, so my input may not be on track.  Still, I agree that the demand right now is to get off gas and oil ($6/gallon in my state!), even if it's not the absolute cutting-edge thing.  "Codes, insurance, and venting the exhaust up the chimney."    My two cents.
2 weeks ago
Thanks Matt.  

I'll look up that model.  Having to put the wheels on and off sounds arduous, but it's only once a week so I can just have a little patience.

Is the A-frame a problem for getting inside it to futz around?  I have in my mind the picture in the Sepp Holzer book that looks more like a people-house than a tractor.  

Matt McSpadden wrote:Hi Joshua,
I have no experience with ducks, but a decent amount of experience with moveable chicken coops, and I watch a lot of youtube :)

I think a moveable duck house is great. The kind of fencing surrounding this duck house will be a huge piece of the puzzle. If you have a good fence (particularly electric) surrounding it, then that is your first line of defense, and the house will not need to withstand as much direct attack from predators... presumably the fence will keep most out.

To my knowledge, ducks prefer the ground rather than perching, and are much less likely to use nesting boxes than chickens, preferring to lay their eggs all over.

In my limited experience, I think if you built an A frame style duck "tractor" that sits on the ground and has two removable wheels on one end, you would probably be in pretty good shape. With the A frame, you have one less side on top, and if you leave the bottom open, one less side there as well. Take out the nesting boxes, and I think the weight and cost should come down considerably. I have seen some people use plywood and metal roofing, but some just use chicken wire and tarp. Not as pretty, but works fairly well. It wouldn't hold off a bear, but you could probably build this style strong enough to withstand a coyote... with the hope and assumption that they won't get in because of your great electric fencing of course. The removable wheels give you the option for multiple duck "tractors" and only have to buy one pair of wheels.

I have seen this setup for geese on the GoldShaw Farm youtube channel. Just some things to think about. Good luck, and when you build something, come back and share some pics :)

1 month ago
I have read through a bunch of other posts but I don't think I see exactly what I'm after here.

About 16 ducks (some of the ducks are actually geese).  Layers.  Also, 4 of them are unsexed Muscovy.

This is a three-season moveable (wheelbarrow-ish) duck house, for the winter there's already a dug shelter in a barn for them and they can have thick bedding and all that.  Let's ignore winter for now.  Or maybe just always ignore winter, hm...

I like the Suscovich tractor idea ("stress-free" sounds great) but I want it to have wheels.   And be moveable by two people.  And still have the bottom rest on the ground.

I'll draw an ascii scketch here of what I envision:



                        |\------------------------------|
                        |. \           ......................  |
________________|xxx-0---xxxxxxxxxxxxx|--------___________


The -0- part is a wheel (two wheels on axles that can move independently).  They rest on the ground, and the hardware cloth bottom also rests on the ground.

\ is metal roofing.  It covers only a part of the enclosure (half) and is at human height so you can go inside and have a look around.
----- on top is harware cloth, hard ware cloth on all six sides of the box.  Again, human head height.  

("But how does the dog get in and out?"  "Well he just--d'oh!")

Yes, a door that is also mostly hardware cloth and lightweight.

Obviously this needs cross braces, needs to be fairly lightweight (is 1x strong enough? is 2x too heavy?), but can take two people to move it to the new location.

I imagine moving it about once a week, and not with the ducks inside.

They hopefully will have a pond but will only get to visit it some of the time, and otherwise I may dig them little 2' pond-lets a la the "seal a small pond" badge bit.  I imagine they will gley them up a bit more.  (I can read/start separate thread for this part of things--the point is that I want the ducks to be able to be moved from one area to another and have their house be nearby to herd them into and spread their mess around (via the floor hardware cloth holes) fairly evenly, rather than having one central spot that gets really degraded.  

(On pond weeks they will be invading the pond as a whole, but afterward the pond gets time to recover like the other paddocks.  Their fence will go around the pond as a whole plus duck house for that week.)

Will the "duckbarrow" idea work? are there weak points in the design that will cause this to fall part the first time a coyote winks at it? is it going to be much more of a pain in the butt to move than I imagine?

A wheelbarrow load is supposedly up to about 1200 lbs, I think two people could lift that much.  If the ducks aren't inside on moving day.

I get about 230lbs for materials including 2x8 steel roofing (Salatin recommends aluminum but I can't find it for sale, I forget if he said there was some special aluminum roof fairy you can get it from).   It's 1.5 lbs per square foot.

I'm not moving it every day, it's not a tractor, so I think this is workable.  

All sorts of various growies in their paddocks over time, alfalfa was sown by the previous farmer.  

Struts--I think I can use clothesline for a lot of these.  They are tensional supports, they don't need to be compressive to give strength to the triangles.


|\|        where "\" = a string sort of thing but it hasn't worked yet

If I'm dead wrong about that, then add another 90 lbs.  310 lbs.

Still under 400 lbs, for two people.  

OK, nesting boxes, I'm thinking I'll use plastic bins here since they're out of the sun mostly and not in contact with soil or water.  So add another 20lbs to be on the safe side.

354 lbs I think.

Oh, I want the door to be on the side rather the front, so when you shift from one alley paddock to the next you don't have to rotate it into place, or parallel park or anything, just slide right in and then come around and hop the fence and open their door and they're all set.

OK, thanks for any feedback.

Last point, this is basically a replica of the duck house I saw a neighbor had for about 8 fowl (3 ducks 5 chickens) but they lived in there pretty much fulltime and ate feed, and got one hour a day to visit the lawn.  He said it was coyote- fox- hawk- racoon- and weasel-proof.  Mine would be the same but with wheels and it makes coffee.
1 month ago
The mechanical pulps are primarily used in newspaper and magazine paper and the chemimechanical pulps for cardboard and soft paper.

--wikipedia

I was trying to find a way to determine which kind of processing from the feel 9f the cardboard, but it doesn't seem likely.  And there have been multiple mentions of newspaper causing problems on this thread.  Hm.
1 month ago
Has anyone found a w ay to attach an awning to a brick building, about 4 stories high? The brick is fragile and cannot be drilled into.  Could it hang from the roof on wires? Could a vine trellis do so?
1 month ago