Joshua Myrvaagnes

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since Mar 20, 2014
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kids purity trees urban writing
Connected or reconnected. Fit with the right cycles and in the right season. Nourished and nurtured with natural energy. Aware of place and part.
Student of nature's intelligence and permaculture, want to live in community, teach human movement with my hands, in light of F. M. Alexander's discoveries.
Ask me about drL, the rotational-mob-grazing format for human interactions.
Massachusetts, 6b, suburban, nearish coast, 50x50, full sun, 40" year-round even distribution
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Recent posts by Joshua Myrvaagnes

Hello Permies,

This would be an ideal stepping stone for someone for a year or a few while plotting their escape from the City.

Mature peartree, raised bed sunchokes in purchased (lead-free) soil, one year of soil-building, large quantity of biomass gathered, rain catchment and some systems worked out for a semi-urban situation.  Also a lot of soil amendment on hand from fowl.  Looking for people who understand permacutlure/whole systems and want to sustain this project from year 2.  It takes about 8 years to reach critical mass with these systems, so year 1 is an invaluable resource and stewardship is priceless.

We live in Belmont, but the Watertown-y part of Belmont, and it's literally Cambridge across the street from us.  

If I get a massive response I'll set up a group videoconference tour at a set time.  Send me a purple mooseage with a description of your permaculture experience and vision.

Thanks so much for considering it and for thinking of future generations.

In community,


More info:

Bottom line, if you just don't cut down the two walnuts you've made an adequate contribution to a serious supply of local protein and fats for 100-350 years.  

About 50x50, full sun, plus a few other microclimates.

We live in Belmont near Cambridge.  71 and 73 bus are right there, which are quiet and run extremely frequently to Harvard Square (ten minutes if it's not rush hour).

13 hours ago
The instructions I read said to put some comb in the jars to start them (and the design has a roof over everything so they're in the dark except when you harvest.). The company went out of business, but they were in business for a while so there should be some good experience to draw on from people using it.  They said put the jars out with comb a week ahead of when "the main honey flow" (, not sure how to know when that is.  one advantage is being able to see what's going on inside the hive without disrupting things by pulling the hive open.
I hope there are other companies making this, but it's hard to find and the reviewer said there was only one company at the time the wrote.  It doesn't seem too hard to build if you have tools to make a hole into the jar (even if the hole doesn't fit the lid exactly but is smaller, the lid can be attached with other means).

Regarding the factory farming aspect of this, I can't speak to it yet, but the human-made box form doesn't seem more natural than the round jar as far as that goes.  Round is nature's way, from the shape of a bone to a leaf to a foxhole.  I've request Song of Increase from the library so I will get more up to speed soon.

4 days ago

Heather Sharpe wrote:I've always stored mine dry until I needed them and seen others do similar. I would think that if your water had much by way of dissolved minerals, they might build up on the stone over time and be irksome. But that would depend on your water chemistry. I don't know if there's a pH at which it would degrade the stone? I'd think it would need to be pretty low.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that.  Maybe rainwater would be best?

I love that I got a reply to this from someone named "Sharpe"!!
2 weeks ago

Jack Edmondson wrote:Keep in mind there are lots of types of stones.  Not all have the same care.  Natural (or Arkansas stones) are different from Japanesse water stones which are different from 'synthetic' stones.  Research your stone's characteristics.

What are you using?  Is it backed or mounted?  

Thanks Jack.  It's a two-sided stone, one grit on one side and finer on the other, and it's all perfectly rectangular.  I don't know the brand or anything, it's all in Chinese.  I think my partner picked it up in Chinatown.  
2 weeks ago
OK, I found something on the web:

In that sharpening article, it recommended submerging waterstones continuously when not in use to keep them from disintegrating. That’s why I put a tank in the bench. I used to use waterbed additive to keep the mold and algae at bay and to prevent the water from getting slimy. I ran out of this stuff, and I can’t find it locally anymore. Do you have any suggestions for a similar product that won’t hurt my Norton waterstones?” – John E. Adams

Tim Inman: First, I would strongly recommend you follow the stone maker’s recommendations. If they want the stone constantly wet, then there is your answer. If you use the stone often, I would keep it wet and ready. But, if you use the stone only occasionally, then it might not be so important to keep it constantly wet. It will take a little while for it to saturate correctly before you can use it properly again, though. Waterbed algaecides are commonly available. If this has worked for you in the past, then I would continue. “Blue Magic” is one brand I have used, and it is available all over the Internet.

Brian Leonard: Different waterstones will have slightly different compositions, which might react differently to additives. Try adding a little bleach to the water and keep the tank covered. This should prevent the water from getting moldy or slimy. Be sure to check your waterstones periodically.


Unfortunatley, the directions for this stone are in Chinese, so I don't know if it's supposed to stay wet.  And I don't want to use algaecides or anything, but it seems changing the water would be necessary.
2 weeks ago
I keep wetting it and drying it and wetting it and drying it.  So I thought, Couldn't I just leave it soaking in water all the time? would that shorten the life of the stone at all?  I did a search on here and didn't find anything about it.  Thanks.
2 weeks ago
OK, so the cold plug happens if the temperatures are the same or if the outside is colder than the inside, is that accurate?  I just have a sense there's an easier workaround, the problem is the solution and all.  In this case, the problem is literally that it's too warm inside on a cold day.  

I'm going to finish listening to the podcast now, maybe it'll all get clearer.  

Kyle Bob wrote:

Joshua Myrvaagnes wrote:I finally get the cold plug thing, but can't you just open the door until the indoor air warms up? am I missing something really obvious?

The tipi is uninsulated so unless the heater has been run, the inside and outside temperatures are essentially the same

I finally get the cold plug thing, but can't you just open the door until the indoor air warms up? am I missing something really obvious?
Thanks Patrick!  We are taking our time with this process, but glad to hear from you in northern VT.  
4 weeks ago