Sorry for the slow reply on this one. I do not know who came up with the one egg per chicken per day rule, but it is not a good rule. If you get the hybrid birds you might get 5-6 eggs a week, but only if you are feeding them a lot of grain. In my experience the hybrids are bred to convert grain to eggs and are lousy on pasture. The heritage breed I run is the black austerlorp. They consistently give me 4 eggs on average a week and require much less grain per egg than the hybrids. If your going to try and have forage based chickens I would not expect more than 3-4 eggs a week on average, the birds cycle so you will have peaks and valleys. I would aim high on the egg product and then you can always sell the eggs/layer or use the eggs to feed another livestock.
I do not use the sqft model for chickens at all. The organic inspectors talley those numbers, but for me they are near useless outside of a confined feeding operation. You will be able to tell if your birds have enough room by their temperament and condition. I always give them way more room than necessary because I can, but smaller area moved frequently will work as well. If you do not have enough space the birds will start pecking each other, but if your trying to have them forage your space will need to be as large as you can protect from predators.
I do not own any of the 100' sections, but those 165' stretches sure are heavy and awkward to deal with. If you do not have enough land to put away winter forage plan on a sacrifice lot. I live in the Pacific NW with fairly mild winters so I can get away with move my 3x165' electronet padock once every three weeks with out damaging the pasture. If your confined to smaller area I would sacrifice a lot to be left dormant during the growing season and protect the rest of your pasture from over scratching and excessive nitrogen.
I like the idea of the coop, here is a link to pictures of my coup which works excellent, except that it is very heavy to move by hand. These pictures are a couple years old and there are turkeys in the coop and you can see my austerlorps in the tractors before they matured. You can also see a picture of a winter lot and a spring paddock: http://www.earthineer.com/photos/606
I would not do anything permanent with the paddock system until you have had it operational for at least one full season.
If portability is the reason for the solar charger then I would recommend solar charging a marine battery and going with a battery operated fense charger. I have cheap to very expensive solar fencers and they are all disappointing. A marine battery can last from a few weeks to a couple months on a charge from what I have been told. You can always charge them up at a solar charging station and you will also develop off grid redundancies this way. I buy the step in fence posts with the insulated orange pig tail tops to run a hot wire to my paddocks from a centeral fencer. I used to move the fencer with the netting, but now I have stuck grounding rods out in my fields and it was a pain. I think of my wires as high voltage power lines going to the netting, but if you have a fencer good for half a mile, then a few hundred feet with no shorts wont take much zap out of it.
You wont regret building a nice tractor. Being able to move the birds daily with ease will be the best practice for your soil and the complete enclosure will be the safest for them. I do not like using standard tractors for the layers however, but I do have an enclosed mobile aviary for my ducks which functions like a tractor but you can walk into and 20'x15'.