Roberto pokachinni wrote:Hi Dale. Awesome project, and best of luck getting it going.
So, I've done a bit of cobbish work in the past. I don't have any ideas about a natural finish for you. One thing got into my head in regards to bamboo and cob. You were talking about using bamboo for structural rebar, and I think that that is a pretty sound plan. I would think, however, that it might be a lot faster and perhaps stronger to get the carpenters to build a strong bamboo post and beam structure, and then make a wattle of woven bamboo in between the posts. The entire thing could be tied together with split bamboo, wire, or baling twine to make the wattle a single unit around the entire circumference. Then instead of solid cob walls with bamboo rebar, daub the entire wattle with cob on both sides, until you get a smooth finish. This would be VERY strong, and much more durable, in my thinking. A couple layers of wattle with cob in between and on the outer surfaces would be another option Even if some of it washed off in a horizontal blowing rain typhoon, it could be easily replaced.
I was wondering about that, but... there are lots of mud huts in the tropics, I think. Maybe not... ...Maybe I'm thinking the savannah which is a lot drier.
drying in the tropical climate where the humidity is high - it may go mouldy.
You might have to ensure that there is a lot of airflow. Windows on windward and leeward side that allow wind to pass through the interior space. Gaps on the tops of the walls to release heat and moist air... et cetera. All screened to keep out insects. If there is a lot of flammable brush around a person could build a fire in the center of a mud/clay house and basically fire the clay. Of course, you would have to have a good coating on all bamboo or wood to ensure that it did not catch fire if you were to do that.
Also, without very good ventilation it would be hot.
Animal products like blood, urine, manure, casein and animal glue have been used through the centuries to stabilise loam. In former times, oxblood was commonly used as a binding and stabilising agent. In Germany, the surfaces of rammed earth floors were treated with oxblood, rendering them abrasion- and wipe-resistant. In many countries, whey and urine are the most commonly used stabilisers for loam surfaces. If manure is used, it should be allowed to stand for one to four days in order to allow fermentation; the stabilisation effect is then considerably enhanced due to the ion exchange between the clay minerals and the manure. In India, traditional loam plaster (gobar plaster) has a high content of cow dung, which has been allowed to stand in a moist state for at least half a day. This technique is still in use. Investigations carried out at the BRL showed that a loam plaster sample subjected to the jet test (referred to in chapter 2, p. 28) eroded after four minutes, whereas a sample with 3.5% by weight of cow dung began showing signs of erosion only after four hours.
In former times, it was quite common to enhance stabilisation against water by adding lime and manure, or lime and whey. One traditional recipe, for instance, specifies 1 part lime powder mixed with 1 part sandy loam, which is soaked for 24 hours in horse urine, after which it can be used for plastering. Obviously, lime reacts chemically with certain ingredients of the urine, since one the appearance of some fine crystals is observable. The casein in urine and the manure react with lime to form calcium buminate (which is not water-soluble). The cellulose in the urine and manure enhances the binding force, as the cellulose fibres act as reinforcement. The ammoniac compounds act as a disinfectant against microorganisms. Two other recipes successfully tested at the BRL are: (a) one part hydraulic lime, four parts wet cow dung, three days old, and eight parts sandy loam, and (b) four parts hydrated lime, one part fat-free white cheese, and ten parts sandy loam.
Plant juices containing oily and latex and derived from plants such as sisal, agave, bananas and Euphorbia herea, usually in combination with lime, are used as a stabilising coating with success in many countries. Investigations at the BRL showed that a high degree of weather protection could be obtained for loam surfaces using doubleboiled linseed oil. It must be mentioned, however, that vapour diffusion is heavily reduced in these cases (see chapter 2, p. 29). Several reports show that cooked starch and molasses can also be used to enhance stability. This effect is more pronounced if a little lime is also added.
Thank you William. We are part of a mutual admiration Club. New housing for her mother is necessary, but it was also decided on for a number of other reasons. She has many friends and acquaintances who have gone on these foreign dating sites. Most have had big promises made and then the guy never showed up, usually they just delete their account or they just leave it. I don't know if they start another account and start talking to other women or what, but it is really really common. And, after that probably the most common thing is for married guys to establish some sort of relationship so that they can have a vacation girlfriend. Sometimes it is ongoing and sometimes it is just for that vacation. So, all of her friends and family have cautioned her to not get her hopes up, because I'm probably one of those people. The only one of her friends who has met her online contact, is a young woman who is attached to a man in his late 70s. She's really hooked on the guy for some reason, but he can't afford to do anything about that. So the yak on the phone for hours, and he sends her a little bit of money. She's holding out hope that the situation will change, but I don't see it.
William Bronson wrote:Dale.
I think I love you.
I love how you think.
I love your moral compass.
I'm gonna suggest taking a locally sourced billboard tarp, or the equivalent.
It won't be light, but I think it could be worthwhile,as a layer of roof, a splash guard or a fish pond liner.
Given the labor rates,hiring a porter shouldn't be out of the question.
I wonder if there are local potters?
If so, clay tiles might help protect the adobe walls.
I'm in agreement with our friend about checking with the locals, but I bet you are already aware of this.
Maybe bring some seeds or tubers they don't have.
Sunchokes come to mind.
Building a house for a woman's mother is about as primal a proof of an able and williness to provide as there could be.
It's just damned sexy.
Su Ba wrote:Are there cows or water buffalo in the area? If so you could try a dung plaster for the walls. You'd want to bring along a piece of screening for sifting the dung and clay that you make the plaster out of. I've heard of some people adding flour to the homemade plaster my but I don't have a recipe. Bet you could search cow dung plaster on google and come up with some recipes.
it is not far from the ocean as the crow flies, but it is quite far as the human or horse walks. I could get a bag of lime to a much closer spot where the bus drops people off. Then a relative would load it on a horse, for the trip to the Village. If I'm able to produce shade-grown coffee, these animals will haul it to market or at least to the road.
Phil Stevens wrote:Dale - is the village near the sea, or can you get a truckload of shells? There's your lime for plaster. It needs to be calcined at 400 degrees and then pulverised and slaked (you can skip the pulverisation step as the addition of water will make it break down pretty well).
S Bengi wrote:
A borrower is a slave to the lender.
Dale Hodgins wrote:
They had to sell her horse when she was about 8 or 9, in order to get a carabao, which is a small swamp water buffalo. It produces milk and can pull a cart. Her favorite thing to do with the horse, was to ride along the river or along the upper ridges of those huge hills.
..... long story short. There absolutely must be a horse in my future. :-)
I've certainly gone well beyond the original plan to talk about building a small cob house.
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