Devon Olsen wrote:Great to see an update, I bet this joint's are tight!
What temp is that silicone rated for?
Devon Olsen wrote:Is it actually 2 and 7/8 where the bottom of the lid sits?
(Gasket height not barrell height)
Aaron Schlief wrote:ok so I've gathered materials for my rmh and I'm going to start my build this week... my question is how far can my exhaust be pushed down? I plan on doing mine in my garage and have to repair my driveway anyway so i had thought to run my exhaust down to the end of my driveway and then bring it back up. my intent is to help my driveway stay clear of ice dams. I understand that if I go with a narrower exhaust it will move the air faster which may help with what I'm hoping to accomplish. I know that this is not a traditional build but I figured it may intrigue someone. driveway is about 30' long and drops about 8' in that stretch. my intent would be to push the exhaust that 30' right away and then climb back up the driveway. Los I'm planning on doing a copper line to help with my hot water in my house. any thoughts would be appreciated.
Eric Hammond wrote:Now for insulation of the heat riser, I went with ceramic fiber blanket insulation. It was listed in the book as really the best thing you can use. For what its worth I COMPLETELY REGRETthis decision. Not only is it expensive, It's probably one of the worst materials I've dealt with. It feels like its going to give you cancer. Have you ever dealt with fiberglass insulation? Think of this as about 5 times as bad as that experience. Way worse itch, plan on throwing your clothes away when your done, and wear a respirator.....unfortunately the little fibers float around your house so its not going to save you in the long run.....
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Eric Hammond wrote:Now for insulation of the heat riser, I went with ceramic fiber blanket insulation. It was listed in the book as really the best thing you can use. For what its worth I COMPLETELY REGRETthis decision. Not only is it expensive, It's probably one of the worst materials I've dealt with. It feels like its going to give you cancer. Have you ever dealt with fiberglass insulation? Think of this as about 5 times as bad as that experience. Way worse itch, plan on throwing your clothes away when your done, and wear a respirator.....unfortunately the little fibers float around your house so its not going to save you in the long run.....
Hi Eric,
I am doing this fun task today! Two questions:
1-do you know if the rockwool has to be as tight as possible?
2- does the end of the wrap meet the floor of the manifold? or just above?
Thanks!
Staci
You are welcome to check out my blog at http://www.theartisthomestead.com or my artwork at http://www.davidhuang.org
My latest blog post is Recent Studies Reveal Awesomely Effective Treatment for Rampaging Disease.
David Huang wrote:Greetings Eric,
I just wanted to express my thanks for all your detail and pictures you've shared of your build so far. I'm preparing to make one myself and have gotten a better understanding and useful tips from your information. The effort you've put into documenting is much appreciated.
God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
Satamax Antone wrote:Erik, a hole in a roof is nothing, if you know what to do. Roofers who talk about resealing every five years, are not worth talking to imho. I admit, it is easier with square chimneys for me. But round can be done too. With a square chimney, it's matter of going under the corrugated steel on top, in the corrugations on the sides, and above those bellow, in form of a raised box with a cut for the corrugations.
Here there is acrylic sealant, but that's belt and braces, because the chimney is meant to be rendered afterwards.
Eric Hammond wrote:
While I understand a hole can be put in a roof, I personally don't think I could survive the mental anguish that would go along with such a feat.
God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
Eric Hammond wrote:Its about time I update the money involved in this project so far.
Initially I spent $138.52 on firebrick at ACME brick.
I went back and spent another $49.22 on more bricks and at 15 lb bucket of refractory cement
The cost of the fireclay $9.89
The mortar from lowes $4.28
The perlite from MFA $20.00
The 2 55 gallon barrels $40.00
One section of black flue pipe $10.00
All the flue pipe from lowes $195.55
Wood stove gaskets $33.58
Ceramic Fiber blanket $99
Tie Wire $4.59
Total so far roughly: $ 604.63 dollars........that's rough to see.
Items I had on hand but would assign a value to
Chicken wire $5 dollars worth
Fuel costs for torches and welding equipment, probably close to $30
Cutting discs/grinding wheels $7
Beer total $30
Misc $72 dollars
So realistically I'm in this around $675 ish so far. It does hurt, but I bet I spent $800 on propane last year and it was a very mild winter and my propane heater was $900 dollars itself. I have ten acres myself, but 30 combined with my neighbors that I could harvest from for wood and have been considering my options for establishing coppice wood. This is a project that potentially could pay for itself the first year, but definitely by the second.
and to be honest, I was going to drink the beer anyway....
Eric Hammond wrote:[quote=Eric Hammond
Plus
$733 for the insulated pipe.....I did get a 58 dollar rebate on the insulated pipe to bring the amount down to $675 for the insulated pipe.
Today I will go purchase the sand for building the bench. I think by the time this is all said and done, I'm going to be close to $1500
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Eric Hammond wrote:[quote=Eric Hammond
Plus
$733 for the insulated pipe.....I did get a 58 dollar rebate on the insulated pipe to bring the amount down to $675 for the insulated pipe.
Today I will go purchase the sand for building the bench. I think by the time this is all said and done, I'm going to be close to $1500
Hi Eric,
Holy smokes! What was the insulated pipe for? (sorry to be dense)
My running tab keeps ticking as well. I lucked out with free sand (though heavy on labor!) , but have no clay, so am now 6 bags of fire clay in (probably more to go).
Chimney pipes and kit cost a bit, and then had to get a different one (too long to return the first).
So far for mine roughly:
(free : barrel, sand, full fire brick, red brick, chicken wire, avocado oil)
Cost: fire clay @ $8.00 = 48.00
barrel lid: $10
gasket: $15
split fire brick: (can't remember... $4.20 each)...$100?
ceramic tile (heat shield)= $20
heavy tile mortar= $20
Chimney kit (not used mostly) = $175
triple wall class A Chimney = ~$80
Supplemental chimney pieces = $100 +
rock wool blanket = ~ $100
ducting, t's, caps, elbows = (honestly can't remember)... ~$100?
straw = (over bought) 4 bales= $20
guide book = $30
video rental= $20
roof tar = $10
silicone= $3
diamond blade = $30
angle grinder= $30
face mask= $10
(Help from Permies...priceless!)![]()
________________________________________ $821
For all your Rocket Mass heater parts.
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I'm not quite a lumberjack, but that's OK, I sleep all night and I dream all day; I'll coppice trees, I'll grow my food, and compost poo and pee! With a well and off-grid solar, it's a permies life for me! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FshU58nI0Ts
Mark Tudor wrote:One tip I recently read was to make sure the surface is actually comfortable to sit on, which is rarely a flat surface that meets the wall at 90 degrees. Instead they suggest that there be a slight slope down as you go back, about 5 degrees, so your butt is a little lower, and then have the angle from seat to back rest be greater than 90 degrees, more around 100-110 degrees. If you aim for 17" high, test that with a chair to be sure your feet can sit flat on the floor and your legs don't have a gap under them. You also want the bottom of the bench to be several inches further in (closer to the wall) than at the top, so you can scoot your heels in to aid in standing up.
I've really enjoyed watching your progress, mentally building my own vicariously through you!
This is where the tons of water came into play.....I tried it pretty dry before and it was too hard to mix.....it almost needs to completely squish to the ground to be effective. I would continue to flip and stomp.....removing any large rocks as I came to them, I wouldn't pull them out at first because a ton of clay sticks to the rocks, after mixing a bit it comes off and gets ground in.
Silence is Golden
~ Dragons, Fairies and even a Mini-Paul! ~ You Know You're a Permie When...~ All About Permies, including tutorials ~Herbal Hugel Spiral of Randomness!~Tricks to Keep the Dirt from Sliding off a Hugel~List of Cascadia Bloggers and Facebook Pages!~
There's a hole in the bucket, dear Liza, dear Liza, a hole in the bucket, dear liza, a tiny ad:
Morgan Superwool Plus non-ceramic fiber blanket for Rocket Mass Heaters
https://permies.com/t/153507/Morgan-Superwool-ceramic-fiber-blanket
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