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Merchant and Mills workbook - one pattern book for a basic wardrobe

 
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I think I got it.
Since I couldn't figure out how much to adjust the FBA.  Here was my thinking process.

Bust on pattern too small.
Waist just about matches mine.  Lots of ease there, so that size is fine
hips.  My hips are a bit small, but again, it's a kind of jumper, so that's fine.

How much to adjust?
My bust measurement
minus the 'fits size' measurement on the pattern
= 3 inch.
divide by half
= 1.5 inch.

So I want the bust to move 1.5 inches away from the middle.  

It seemed a good idea at the time.  But I'm recording this in case it wasn't and I'll know not to do it that way again in future.

Next time I cut up a pattern piece, I need to start labelling the bits.  

and now I get to adjust the bottom to match the top.  Not sure if I want to bring it in on the hips a bit.  That's what the mockup is for.
Merchant-and-Mills-Top-64-Full-Bust-adjustment.jpg
Merchant and Mills Top 64 - Full Bust adjustment
Merchant and Mills Top 64 - Full Bust adjustment
 
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That looks like it has promise!

Does the raglan sleeve contribute to the neckline? (It looks from the picture that it does.) Have you any way to measure either from the "shoulder to the bust" or from the waistline up to the bust so that you can confirm that the "bust-line" you've created will more or less land where you want it? It's just that to me it looks as if the dart coming in from the side seam is lower towards your waist than you might need it.

As you say though, the mock-up will identify problems if there are any!
 
r ranson
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I know.  It looks horribly low.  I had to remeasure and remeasure again.

Then I realized that I have another 9 inches of cloth in the bottom section, and when I put the two together, it looks better.

I don't know if you can see in the upper right where the three parts go together on the front?  Upper left, upper right, lower front.  
Merchant-and-Mills-Top-64-instructions.jpg
Merchant and Mills Top 64 instructions
Merchant and Mills Top 64 instructions
 
r ranson
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Here's the fabric choice for Top 64.
I don't know if I'll use the cream coloured silk for the facing or if I can piece together enough of the green cotton print.  All I know is that this grey wool next to the neck will not be comfortable.  I should read the instructions before making my choice for the facing.  

I need to cut off a square and wash it to see if it shrinks.  I suspect the fabric is a wool-blend.  I'm planning on handwashing this top, but even handwashing can shrink wool.  Trying to decide the best way to prepare this fabric.

64-shirt-start-small.JPG
fabric for Merchant And Mills top 64
fabric for Merchant And Mills top 64
 
Jay Angler
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Granted I feel the cold and dampness of "Wet Coast" winters, so I would vote for a facing that was warm and fuzzy like a brushed cotton considering the main fabric of wool should be warm.

If this top ends up fitting you well, the pattern would be a candidate for the idea of a "reversable top" - instead of a facing, it could be made fully lined where either the lining side or the other side could be worn facing the world. This would allow two shirts for the drawer space of one and be warmer as well. (But I'm getting ahead of things!)
 
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