Fox James wrote:I have found that studying rocket stoves can be very frustrating, it is not something that has been developed and perfected by a large company with unlimited resources ... so many questions don’t have conclusive answers that can easily be found out!...
However I can’t help but think there is far more to come........
thomas rubino wrote:Peter; With all due respect you and Mimi are Journeyman rocket scientists! Your not fooling anyone about being a novice... that was months ago!
Next year after you consult on all your neighbors new RMH'S and start planning / ? construction on your first batch box, You will become a master builder !
Well OK , might take a day or two longer than a year but you are well on the way!
Gerry Parent wrote:Second the motion Thomas! As long as you know that there's always more to learn, a 'title' should never slow you down as long as the ego doesn't get in you own way.
On another note, I got around to modifying the wood carrier, by enlarging the holes around the handles....mucho betta!
Gerry Parent wrote:The one area that would help to clean as well would be the inside surface of the barrel, unless you want it to radiate a little less heat into the room and more into the bench.
Otherwise, looks quite normal/healthy to me. Its nice that you have so much room to allow the ash to stay where it is so that there is no problems with it restricting draft.
Satamax Antone wrote:Looking at the brownish color of the barrel's ashes. I would insulate a smidge more the heat riser.
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Did notice however that the ash that has settled on the floor around the base of the manifold etc is substantial lighter and fluffier than the ash we clean out of the burn box everyday. Wasn’t really expecting it to be so light. Seems like would have a lot of insulation value if left undisputed. (In moderation I would imagine. Doesn’t look like very much is making its way deep inside the half barrel bench area, but hard to tell as I can only try to judge based on what I can see from the manifold side of the large transition hole. Peter🤓
Gerry Parent wrote:To me, the linguistics of the term "fly ash" would mean ash that flies, but when I looked it up, there is another description: fly ash Not sure if it has to be ash from burning coal or if it can also be from wood?
I know Donkey (Kirk Mobert) has used quite a bit in his builds (as well as for a mortar). I have used it some too but don't have enough experience to say how well it performs.
Also, have you checked your vertical exhaust pipe for the amount of 'fuzz' coating that might be on there?
As I think Thomas pointed out earlier, the brown drippies that come out of the pipe are mostly from the bench drying out and will go away when it dries out completely as you have witnessed. As for creosote buildup, I don't think you have any concern. I don't think the fuzz counts as creosote. The thicker black tar-like substance that will still burn if ignited is at least my definition of what creosote is.
Perfect advice from Thomas. Tho, i would use a tube myself, to hold the mix.
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Peter; Regular clay mixed with perlite and formed with hardware cloth is fine, once you are out of the riser temperatures are moderate enough to not need fireclay.
Gerry Parent wrote:The best time to fill those cracks would be when they are at their warmest and therefore their widest due to expansion - Dampen down and smear some loose clay/sand into them. Some may come back (again and again) so sometimes its not a perfect fix. Just consider those persistent ones natural expansion joints or dragon wrinkles. Adds character!
Nice retro cap you made. Earth, fire, water, air, and now metal (along with your P-channel). Makes your creation elementally complete.
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Experimenting a bit with Chimichanga hair in the mix as well. That seems to be helping with the tinsel strength. Most of the cracks are holding. Really trying to use the crack patch exercise as a chance to work out the best proportions of ingredients for a finish plaster mix. Not too much dusting but would like to eliminate dusting all together if possible. Any suggestions or insight would be much appreciated.
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Could add slaked lime to the finished mix. Could finish with linseed oil. The only thing that makes me hesitant on those two options is that it seems like a one time deal. As in once you do it you can’t go back. With the clay based plaster we have now I can always reapply new layers and adjust. That won’t be the case if we use lime or seal with oil correct?
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