Chris Lyons wrote:Did the new part fix it?
Chris Lyons wrote:That's great! Sometimes the experts are not the experts. Could you please share where you found the part? I have a similar water heater and I see the gas valve listed at $179 which I think is too much.
Chris Lyons wrote:Thanks, I ordered the gas valve and an anode. Mine won't shut off completely. Always a sooty flame dancing at the orifice.
Chris Lyons wrote:As far as I know the thermostat is working. When it clicks on the burner roars. When it clicks off a little bit of gas leaks through the gas valve. It looks like a sooty candle flame. I did some banging on the heater and the leak is much smaller now. This tells me the gas valve is sticking inside.
Jen Fan wrote:
Li El wrote:
I have the same problem (propane in the mainline to other appliances but none at the pilot on the water heater)... can you mark the gas valve that you replaced on the pic?
Chris Lyons wrote:What is the make and model number of your furnace?
Rufus Laggren wrote:> "propane explosion..." [when trying to start]
Not lighting off properly. May not be getting enough gas from the control (a trickle vs. a flow) or the burner may be rusted and dirty and not flowing properly. Too little gas flow will not reach the pilot and instead will "leak" out and accumulate in the bottom of the combustion chamber until it rises to the level of the pilot. At that time there can be a _lot_ of propane sitting there and when it does light off...
Or. The pilot may not be positioned right or it may be too small. I think what you're experiencing is called "rollout" because flames roll out of the combustion chamber through the intake slots.
Or. Fuel contamination may be causing problems for your control. The below is just one link referencing (in this case) a propane engine with fuel problems - there are many more links to be found especially on RV sites.
The situation is potentially dangerous.
Rufus Laggren wrote:Check the easy/quick/cheap stuff first.
- light the pilot and observe it for healthiness
- got plenty propane in tank?
- other stuff (like stove) working?
- tap the control smartly w/the handle of a kitchen knife (that administers about the right level of violence...) and try again
- open/close the shutoff valve for the furnace a couple times
- twist the control knob on/off a couple times
- using a good light and maybe a mirror, look closely at the burner to make sure something didn't dirty it up, all the little holes are clear
- check the slider or twister on the primary air supply (on the larger tube that feeds the burner); the type of adjustment varies but there's usually one there; prolly s/b "medium"
All the above can be done w/out dismantling anything much. If you can observe the problem w/out getting singed, lie down so you can see into the combustion chamber and turn the control to "on" while watching what happens. Does the pilot remain healthy when the gas first comes on (b4 the pop when it gets blown out)?
The issue sounds like gas delivery and the above can indicate where to start looking. If there's no other appliance (that's working ok) on that propane tank, try switching tanks.
bob day wrote:Hi Jen,
You say there is a pilot that lights--presumably while you are pressing the gas button, but then turns off when you let go of the gas starting button?
That sounds like it could be a problem with the heat sensor in the pilot assembly, and that problem might be fixed by as little as moving that metal prong around that senses when there is a flame so it tells the valve to stay open, or close down because the pilot flame is out.
I have corrected this problem in different ways on different appliances, sometimes the sensors are sort of spring clipped in place and the clip has slipped out of it's notches so the sensor is actually not in the flame enough and just tells the valve to shut down because it never heats up enough to open the regular supply..
On another appliance I had to manipulate the gas sleeve that delivers the pilot gas so that the pilot flame slightly shifted position and contacted that sensor more directly.
Those adjustments will require access to the back of the unit though, so if you can't even look in there how would you adjust anything?
Some way or another you need to get access to where the pilot and burner assembly are so you can see more clearly what is going on.
Whatever else might be wrong, this would seem to be a first step.