John C Daley wrote:Why is the step being created on the perimeter beam?
Rufus Laggren wrote:Thanks for sharing. Very exciting. Best luck.l
Only thought is to be paranoid and anal-retentive about water. Where it flows, how it seeps, etc, etc. Water _will_ get anywhere it can - it's ruthless and unrelenting. Also relates to snow levels and melting.
John C Daley wrote:
The ricecrete mixture is far too light and crumbly to accept plaster directly. Rather than install ricecrete in moveable shuttering as I would for straw-clay, I hold it in place with permanent lath, installed prior to the infill. For lath I have used split bamboo, thin wooden slats, and also reed mat which is readily availble in hardware stores here. I don’t know whether mesh would be stiff enough on its own to do the job - it probably depends on the distance between your framing members. With the lath in place, there is no need to compress the ricecrete as it goes into the wall. This is advantageous because less compaction means more air in the wall, which means better insulation - and also less materials cost, less weight, less mixing, etc. I would not add any kind of fiber to the ricecrete because it would make it harder to mix, harder to install, and less likely to fill narrow cavities completely. Do be careful as you are filling to move the ricecrete by hand underneath electrical boxes or any other horizontal obstacle inside the wall cavity. You can lath one side of your wall completely and then on the side you plan to fill from. Don’t do more than 50cm vertically at a time so that you can reach the bottom and make sure that the cavity is completely filled.
John C Daley wrote:Peter, the lathe you have shown is the principle I spoke of.
As for drying time, how long is a piece of string?
Because its raining where you are building it will take extra time.
I bought a book detailed, believe it or not , called " Japanese earth Plastering" !!
It may have details of drying times required.
I have seen places, cool rooms, where the fill material is just poured in loose.
Have you considered that?
I think your thinking on the foundations are good.
Gerry Parent wrote:Peter, The picture of the rice hull brick looks great but may still have a little much clay if your going to rely on it for insulation. That's great that you have access to so much of those rice hulls. As usual, your innovation for finding and using what you have available is inspiring.
Peter Sedgwick wrote:I see people using bottles in the flooring under their mass a number of times. Claiming that it’s a “thermal brake” Is this a useful addition to the insulation under the mass? Not sure I fully understand their proposed function and read mixed reviews about bottles in general. Any light you can shed on this would be much appreciated. “Thermal break” and insulation are two different things? Convection currents inside the bottles are a potential issue? If using bottles are they capped or uncapped?
Cheers, Pete 😎
Peter Sedgwick wrote:My biggest two concerns for using rice hulls as a subfloor insulation system would be:
1. To much movement from pressure above, i.e. walking around on it, making the top finish plaster sag and crack.
2. Building it up to a thickness to get decent insulation value and having the rice hulls mold and deteriorate in the subfloor. Peter
thomas rubino wrote:Wow Peter; From picking a dry day to pour a foundation... to having a dance party!
What looks to be a big dance party ....in what looked to be a nice new tiny house!
Amazing how much room those tiny house must have inside!
Gerry Parent wrote:Hang in there kid! Been there done that and know the feeling quite well. When the forms start coming off and the back fill begins, the corners of the mouth start to go upwards!